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air filter / box question
Posted 30 August 2003 - 10:05 AM
Posted 30 August 2003 - 10:10 AM
Posted 30 August 2003 - 10:40 AM
An Accel coil with good wires, new cap, and rotor (I paid $45 for a super stock, $20 for new wires, and about $12 for a new cap and rotor) will help alot. so all you really need is a good cap, rotor, and a good coil.
As for the air box, cut out the bottom to get a more beefy sound. Take off the warm air duct if you want to suck in cold air more. Depending on how cold a climate you live in (I'm in oregon, so it's no big deal) but if you're in alaska, I'd really not touch it at all.
Here's a good picture of something to do to a carburated car.
Posted 30 August 2003 - 10:44 AM
Very nicely done...
How about some more details on your carb setup.
Posted 30 August 2003 - 10:45 AM
Posted 30 August 2003 - 11:08 AM
Here's a basic rundown of what I have done to hop up my SPFI:
- Removed Power Steering
- Removed A/C
- Accel SuperStock Coil
- NGK OEM Plugs
- 8mm Accel Wires
- Timing Advanced 24 Degrees
- Run highest Octane Gas (otherwise it pings now with the advance)
- 2" exhaust after second catalytic convertor, right angle out to rocker panel, side exit in front of rear tire - no muffler
- Oil/Air Separator modification to PCV system
- Relocated Air filter to spare tire shelf - replaced airbox with 3" cone filter - custom fabricated MAF adapter plate
- Dual Core Turbo Radiator
- Cut large hole in hood for heat to escape and air for the intake
- 4 Wheel Disc Swap
I think that's it. I can't remember off the top of my head. But I tell you what, this little SPFI with 172K miles on it screams like a MOFO. I drive it 100 miles a day and don't have any major issues with the car. Taking off all of the parasitic accessories, the engine revs to redline with easy - will chirp the tires - will smoke them if I do a 3500 RPM clutch drop (bad!) Easily pulls to 100+ MPH and pulls in every gear now.
I never really had another Subaru to baseline against, but based on where this car was when I got it - it's a HUGE improvement.
Posted 30 August 2003 - 11:19 AM
bought a 4" deep dish chrome cleaner kit. modified the bottom piece by taking the top lip off. Used the 2 5/8 to 2 5/16 spacer. bought a 9" chrome air filter assembly, with the 2 5/8" adapter. Used the bottom part of the 9" chrome cleaner upside down. Put the spacer/adapter under it. Now the problem, the difference between the spacer/adapter and the neck of the carb is 5/16. So, use the adapter and the bottom part of the modified 4" cleaner to hold it in place. So it's all snug. It's an interesting thing, so you really need to see it in person.
The valve covers have breathers on them, the air pump to the second cat has an identical breather, and my crankcase breather needs one like it... but I haven't had the money for a $22 cleaner for it. (specially made for the smaller tubing)
When the secondary valve opens, you can hear it sucking air. It's sweet. Now the engine breathes alot better. That with the electrical things I've done (coil, wires, cap, rotor) and the performance muffler (see picture) have all helped to put my'88 EA81 N/A carbed engine a little bit faster.
With the tires I've put on the car (the cheapest 175/70/R13 tires I could buy) I can chirp the tires in every gear, really peel out in first and a little bit in second if I let off the clutch just right. FWD.
Posted 30 August 2003 - 01:42 PM
Posted 30 August 2003 - 02:47 PM
Posted 30 August 2003 - 03:04 PM
Posted 30 August 2003 - 07:44 PM
And pulling off the PS and AC sounds good, too. My Loyale wagon has a non-functioning AC switch, so I've been thinking of pitching the AC. Might as well do the PS too...
Posted 30 August 2003 - 08:16 PM
Posted 30 August 2003 - 08:19 PM
Posted 30 August 2003 - 10:23 PM
Posted 30 August 2003 - 10:45 PM
Posted 31 August 2003 - 11:01 AM
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