yarikoptic Posted March 16, 2005 Share Posted March 16, 2005 Hi All, As I reported elsewhere I've found my inner boot BAAD yesterday (although I didn't mention that it was torn day before) so I'm about to fix it... Struggling either to do with replacing just a boot (15$ parts) or whole shaft (because seems to be the same amount of work) I'm choosing between new (75$) (LLT warranty) and remanufactured (55$) (3 month warranty) CV from autozone. Because it is already that 15$ problem might become 5 times "richer" in value, I really consider reman one. Did you use "VALUCRAFT EPV CV HALFSHAFT (REMANUFACTURED)", any oppinions would be greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBrian Posted March 16, 2005 Share Posted March 16, 2005 Regarding the ValuCraft: you save $20, but how much would you be willing to pay to not have to do the job twice? (Multiply the cost of doing the job again by the likelyhood of having to for CCT and ValuCraft.) If it were me, I'd go for the lifetime supply of reman axles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yarikoptic Posted March 16, 2005 Author Share Posted March 16, 2005 Heh... called them and for a new one I need to pay 20$ more for shipping because it is not stocked... heheh... so probably I will go for remanuf. Also I can't reach the guy at whose driveway I was going to do the job... so I think I end up taking my car apart upfront of Autozone (at least I can rent puller and may be smth else I need in case). When I take axle off I will decide if I need just a boot or the whole beast. Any advice on how to determine how reliable CV joint is? as for driving a car it sounds fine... what is permittable amount of felt by hands backlash? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chef Posted March 16, 2005 Share Posted March 16, 2005 Problem is you won't be able to tell just by yanking the boot off and taking the axle out. You'll need to clean all the grease out and see how grooved or scratched the inside is. Get a haynes manual if you don't have one - they have pictures of what it should look like. I just had the inner CV boot replaced on my 92 legacy today, and was in a similar dialemma. My outer boot was intact, and I had no reaosn to believe the inner cv joint was damaged. A remanufactured axle was $120 (cdn), with $60 of labour, or the boot $15 with $90 labour. The cleaning of the joint and repacking with grease increases the time. I went with just the boot, as I am nearly broke right now. I hate minimum price charges. It only took an hour, but still got charged 1.5 hr of labour. Still, the place seems pretty tight, and I will probably return for any necessary repairs (hopefully not any time soon!). I now have a nasty exhaust leak to take care of. It's opened up under a bracket just south of the catalytic converter. I am also afraid it might be open a bit north of there too, but I can';t seem to find another hole. I will probably attempt to patch it for now, but I don't have jack stands or a proper hydraulic jack to get under the car with. I had reasonable success patching a hole in the downpipe on my last car using aluminum muffler tape, fibreglass cloth, and hose clamps. We'll see about this one. Good luck. Heh... called them and for a new one I need to pay 20$ more for shipping because it is not stocked... heheh... so probably I will go for remanuf. Also I can't reach the guy at whose driveway I was going to do the job... so I think I end up taking my car apart upfront of Autozone (at least I can rent puller and may be smth else I need in case). When I take axle off I will decide if I need just a boot or the whole beast. Any advice on how to determine how reliable CV joint is? as for driving a car it sounds fine... what is permittable amount of felt by hands backlash? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yarikoptic Posted March 16, 2005 Author Share Posted March 16, 2005 Problem is you won't be able to tell just by yanking the boot off and taking the axle out. You'll need to clean all the grease out and see how grooved or scratched the inside is. Get a haynes manual if you don't have one - they have pictures of what it should look like.. Well - anyway I'm going to clean old greese away so I will have chance to look at the thing.... Does anyone know if autozone rents out 36mm socket? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBrian Posted March 17, 2005 Share Posted March 17, 2005 Does anyone know if autozone rents out 36mm socket?They do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yarikoptic Posted March 18, 2005 Author Share Posted March 18, 2005 Uff - what a day... So - I grabbed both - new "universal" boot and reman cv halfshaft from autozone and got to my friends dead-end where I could safely perform repair... BTW - I needed 32mm instead of 36mm so I just bought it - didn't have time to drive to autozone to rent it... The problem is that I couldn't knock the joint from the wheel bearing or whatever it is... so -- the outer side. I even tried small puller but I was afraid that it would bend my rusty base if not brake it then I will be doomed. I've tried to knock if with hammer... hammer broke... ok - it wasn't that great one, but it served me long before that :-) but it wasn't really heavy weight one. At the end I gave up. Also I've tried to knock out the pin from the inner side with no luck - I didn't have access from bottom (although there is a muffler there so I'm not sure if I would get more clearance). So I've tried to knock it out with leftovers of the hammer but it didn't even move... Well - any advice? Or a bigger hammer would do a trick in both cases? would driving back and forward couple of times before taking CV joint, help to loosen it? (just crazy idea with obvious answer - No) P.S. Why the hell they hidden oxy sensor so deep underneath CV joint? it was miserable to change it with CV in place... I wanted to accomplish at least something today :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnuman Posted March 18, 2005 Share Posted March 18, 2005 Uff - what a day... So - I grabbed both - new "universal" boot and reman cv halfshaft from autozone and got to my friends dead-end where I could safely perform repair... BTW - I needed 32mm instead of 36mm so I just bought it - didn't have time to drive to autozone to rent it... The problem is that I couldn't knock the joint from the wheel bearing or whatever it is... so -- the outer side. I even tried small puller but I was afraid that it would bend my rusty base if not brake it then I will be doomed. I've tried to knock if with hammer... hammer broke... ok - it wasn't that great one, but it served me long before that :-) but it wasn't really heavy weight one. At the end I gave up. Also I've tried to knock out the pin from the inner side with no luck - I didn't have access from bottom (although there is a muffler there so I'm not sure if I would get more clearance). So I've tried to knock it out with leftovers of the hammer but it didn't even move... Well - any advice? Or a bigger hammer would do a trick in both cases? would driving back and forward couple of times before taking CV joint, help to loosen it? (just crazy idea with obvious answer - No) P.S. Why the hell they hidden oxy sensor so deep underneath CV joint? it was miserable to change it with CV in place... I wanted to accomplish at least something today :-) OK, first the bad news: it sounds like your halfshaft is siezed to the hub. The best way to get it out when it is like that is to pull the whole knuckle off and take it all to a machine shop and have it pressed out. (you will need to remove it from the strut, and the tie-rod end, and remove the inner CV joint as well) On a better note, you can turn the halfshaft so you get a good shot at the pin holding the inner joint to the tranny axle. You need a 3/16 drift punch and a good ball-peen hammer to drive out the pin. Taking off the header pipes will make this all much easier (including taking out the O2 sensor). When you are done, you will need a good alignment done on the front end at least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yarikoptic Posted March 18, 2005 Author Share Posted March 18, 2005 he he heh it seems that I need quick boot for now :-/ or as it was recommended -- durable zip-lock (now it is just durable grey tape but it doesn't hold well) Probably I need to make good friends with some of the mechanics near by who has press-machine :-) When you are done, you will need a good alignment done on the front end at least. you think that it is far from sufficient to mark alignment bolt position and assemble having that in mind? (I didn't knock it out from the knob, so I say it should be positioned exactly as before right now) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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