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Please clean inside your fenders!


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I got a cheap 93 Legacy L 25th Anniversary edition sedan. Overall it looks like it was kept clean, garaged, well cared for, except rust-thru is beginning at the driver's side wheel well arches. The front rustout is at the bottom of the fender, back rustout where quarter panel meets bumper. The inside of the front fender was packed full of debris: leaves, seeds, and crud. This space can be seen by the door hinges. I removed at least a pound or two, using a hooked wire, shopvac, and compressed air, (yuk). Can't say for sure this caused the outside to rust, but keeping a damp organic mixture in contact with metal can't be too good.

 

In the rear, there was some dirt packed inside the lip of the wheel well. Removed with hooked wire and shop air.

 

BTW, while on the Legacy you can see all the way inside the front fender, on my Baja most of the void is sealed top-to-bottom with some kind of foam, there is still a space for debris to collect. This will be an easy job, just use a vacuum cleaner with crevice tool or compressed air.

 

Any other voids or drainage holes to inspect? Recommendations on rust preventative sprays that won't seal moisture into existing rust?

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After subjecting my legacy to a high-pressure hose blasting in the wheel wells, I found a cornucopia of crud coming loose as well. If I had my own washer, I'd remove the front wheels and spray from the inside of the wells out. I definitely think this contributes to the rust, and plan to remove the splash guards and wash again soon. Then, I intend to pull the front fenders off this summer, wash them, refinish them, and put undercoating along the backside. I will put some anti-rust coating around the edge of the wheel wells too before repainting the panel. The front fenders appear relatively easy to remove.

 

 

 

I got a cheap 93 Legacy L 25th Anniversary edition sedan. Overall it looks like it was kept clean, garaged, well cared for, except rust-thru is beginning at the driver's side wheel well arches. The front rustout is at the bottom of the fender, back rustout where quarter panel meets bumper. The inside of the front fender was packed full of debris: leaves, seeds, and crud. This space can be seen by the door hinges. I removed at least a pound or two, using a hooked wire, shopvac, and compressed air, (yuk). Can't say for sure this caused the outside to rust, but keeping a damp organic mixture in contact with metal can't be too good.

 

In the rear, there was some dirt packed inside the lip of the wheel well. Removed with hooked wire and shop air.

 

BTW, while on the Legacy you can see all the way inside the front fender, on my Baja most of the void is sealed top-to-bottom with some kind of foam, there is still a space for debris to collect. This will be an easy job, just use a vacuum cleaner with crevice tool or compressed air.

 

Any other voids or drainage holes to inspect? Recommendations on rust preventative sprays that won't seal moisture into existing rust?

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I peaked in mine and found some masking tape with "Aspen White" written on it.

 

Guess my car has been to the paint shop before? :banghead:

 

Glenn,

82 SubaruHummer--No fenders, no crud buildup!

01 Forester--Apparently been painted...

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After subjecting my legacy to a high-pressure hose blasting in the wheel wells, I found a cornucopia of crud coming loose as well. If I had my own washer, I'd remove the front wheels and spray from the inside of the wells out. I definitely think this contributes to the rust, and plan to remove the splash guards and wash again soon. Then, I intend to pull the front fenders off this summer, wash them, refinish them, and put undercoating along the backside. I will put some anti-rust coating around the edge of the wheel wells too before repainting the panel. The front fenders appear relatively easy to remove.

 

On the '93 I can see electrical wires & stuff that run alongside the engine compartment, viewed thru the door hinges, so I would NOT recommend blasting hi-pressure water inside the fender. Maybes the wiring's waterproof in that space but I wouldnt bet on it. Compressed air & piece of coathanger wire gets rid of most debris before washing. I would prefer to repair with fender off car if its not too difficult to remove.

 

I wonder what Subaru dealers or indepent detailers & bodyshops call this service, taking an older car and cleaning inside body panel voids & drain holes, partial disassembly, rust treatment?

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Any other voids or drainage holes to inspect? Recommendations on rust preventative sprays that won't seal moisture into existing rust?

 

Allong the lowwer kick panels remove any small rocks lodgedin drain holes. remove body plugs on the botom of the car and clean them out also. Two imports with over 200k in New England with no sign of rust can't be wrong. Use Extend or Rust converter to convert existingrust you can't get to or is to far gone then coat over with your choice after a two day dry time to keep mostuire away.

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There was some body work done on the inside of all four wheel wells on my car before i bought it. It began to show a slight amount of rust in days (shoddy job). I washed the wheel wells throroughly, and wiped them down with a rust-prevention/penetrating oil. It looks a bit greasy, but doesn't damage the paint and does wonders to slow/prevent further rust damage for now (at least until I can do a proper job fixing them).

 

 

 

my car has 332 000 KMs on it...no rust anywhere except a few small parts on one of the doors and trunk

 

everywhere else its perfect

 

you can still see the green colour everywhere under it and the frame is black full of grease

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A mixture of used engine oil and grease will freeze rust in suspended animation. Just dab it onto the rust and into the body cavities with an old paint brush.

In Europe and Canada, spraying the underbodies and oiling body cavities with used engine oil is/was common practice. Messy at first, but after a while it attracts a thin layer of road dust. Impossible for rust to start. Used engine oil will "wick" its way into welded seams that are otherwise impossible to get to.

 

We don't have rust here in Wy. Ranchers still drive trucks from the 1950's.

I grew up in NJ, though. Different story there with the salt air.

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If you're on the hunt for hidden debris and rust spots, look at the fuel filler pipe. There is a plastic shield (at least on my 95 Legacy) that covers the side of the fuel filler pipe and then attaches at the bottom of the pipe.

 

The bottom of the plastic shield loaded up with dirt or some other debris and rusted my fuel filler pipe. Found it when it started leaking gas. Not too bad to replace but took a good amount of time.

 

You can probably check it without jacking up the car and taking the wheel off. Just try to look at the pipe from behind the rear passenger wheel, and you might be able to get some fingers or a screwdriver or shop vac in there to clean it out.

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My 90 Loyale had the usual rust as a result of dirt and debris collecting in the space behind the front fender that you can see when the door is open. I first detected the problem area through a rust hole from the outside.

I have since had occasion to check the same area on my 2000 Legacy GT and sure enough, tons of road sand, mixed with salt here in NE. I flushed the area out with a garden hose while the nose of the car was pointed uphill.

If the AWD ever fails, I know where I can get some sand for emergency traction. Another great idea from SOA.

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