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Mobil 1 15-50 and piston slap


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This is crazy... I posted a message here a week or 2 ago... here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=33808

 

I know my '98 2.5 is a different beast, but I've found that my piston slap gets worse with thicker oil and goes away with mobil 1 5-30 wt (also gone with 0-30wt)

 

Crazy!? :-\

 

I said basically the same thing in both threads! :D

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99obw just disconnect the crank angle sensor. No amount of cranking will start the engine. Of course, as Frag has thankfully pointed out already, you would have to do this EVERY morning.

Thanks for the tip. I assume that will disable the injectors and spark? Great, now my oil changes will take even longer!!! I was only suggesting this procedure immediately following an oil change, not every day. I'm not that crazy!

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Your car is quite a lot younger than the cars 99 and I used heavier oil in. This is nothing new really, heavier oil has been used to cut burning and noise while protecting worn bearings for years.

Perhaps your car circulates oil better when it is thin. This is kind of a you got me as I don't really see why I would get one effect and you another just accross the Bay.

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Your car is quite a lot younger than the cars 99 and I used heavier oil in. This is nothing new really, heavier oil has been used to cut burning and noise while protecting worn bearings for years.

Yep, approaching 180k miles and it loves a 40 weight. I don't think I could stand the racket if I put a thin 30 weight in it right now. Plus, I don't think I could keep the oil level up with a thin 30 weight, as my wife is certain that checking the oil in her daily driver is my job. ;) Don't get me started on tire pressure. :rolleyes:

 

Cookie, I think you and I both have early Phase II blocks. I wonder if that may be a factor. Perhaps different revisions of block respond differently to oil viscosity. slo5oh presumably has a Phase I block in his car.

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99obw, an engine left overnight will have drained as much oil as one that is having it changed, if not more - I trust you don't wait four hours for the oil to drain during changes?

 

The only difference is that the "straw" that is used to suck oil up from the pan will be empty after an oil change. The pump is still full and the filter has been filled by the DIY mechanic! :)

 

So, I accept that "dry cranking" after an oil change will make a difference, but only by the smallest of margins. The sort of margin that might be noticeable once the engine turns past 200k miles. Even then, only in oil consumption, not bearing failure.

 

Still, hats off for obsessing about maintenance! Too few people do it.

 

 

By the way, Bobistheoilguys "Timken" machine is also useless. The oil is not supplied under pressure, like it is in an engine bearing.

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Another dino note. last night I started tearing down a 67 Pontiac 400 engine. It was rebuilt about 1998 and run with fairly regular dino 10-30 changes from the looks of the receipts. The last change was 76 oil done at a 76 station, before that who knows. Just jiffy lube receipts that say 10-30.

This engine has sludge in it like I used to see in the 70s.The PCV valve was all gummed up. I suspect that from the low mileage it has turned that it did a lot of short trips, and most of it on LA freeways where sludge conditions are great.

I think Mobil 1 or a really good detergent oil would have helped prevent the formation of this sludge. The engine runs fine, but I will be leary of cleaning it out becuse this sludge could easily plug a lifter or oil passage.

Eventually you can bet I'll change this thing to synthetic because it will spend most of its time sitting, and I think the synthetic breaks down less.

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Good point: Short journeys mean condensation inside the engine block. Mix it with the unburnt fuel that slips past the piston rings, and maybe some of the "oil fog" and presto: Sludge!

 

Now, any oil will be hard pressed to avoid leaving an emulsion on the filler cap and maybe the dipstick too, but a synth would surely fight a more valiant battle.

 

This does underline that synth is useful in compensation for non-ideal driving conditions. Lots of short trips at one extreme and lots of high rev, high speed work at the other.

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I guess this depends on personal philosophy, but I actually like women. I have little desire to make the aquaintance of large persons who rely on words of few syllables in the shower.

Just perhaps a bit of interest on something I noticed. Weather has been fairly good lately so I've been driving the BMW roadster. The Subaru sat for several days, and when she first started after the oil had drained way down. The slap was back just the way it used to be. When it warmed up it was gone again.

This makes me think that all the synthetic is doing is staying on the piston longer, but if you leave it alone long enough it will eventually drain back to the pan.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Originally Posted by 99obw

I just thought I would chime in here and back up cookie on his claims. I too have found the boxer to prefer something thicker than the average 30 weight with regard to piston slap and engine noise in general.

 

I had to respond to this thread because I just talked to my mechanic about it today! They are a small, independent garage, who specializes in repairing Subarus. I noticed that when I have my car in for a lube and oil, they use 15W40 oil. I asked him "why" today and he gave me the following paraphrased answer: The heavier diesel oil has more detergents and is more purified than regular oil. Due to the boxer engine design, it cleans and protects the parts better and they've had great success in using it. He said he's never had an oil-related engine failure in a 2.2 that used 15W40.

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And since this thread still lives. The gas mileage is still about the same and the engine has used no oil. This is a bit unusual as by this time I would have topped up at least once with the old dino 10-30. This stuff does not appear to be thinning out and breaking down as much as the dino did.

It is interesting that the independent mechanics have come to use a heavier diesel oil. I bet that really keeps those engines clean.

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Another dino note. last night I started tearing down a 67 Pontiac 400 engine...The engine runs fine, but I will be leary of cleaning it out becuse this sludge could easily plug a lifter or oil passage.

Eventually you can bet I'll change this thing to synthetic because it will spend most of its time sitting, and I think the synthetic breaks down less.

 

If you're tearing it down anyhow you might as well take the block to a machine shop and have it hot tanked... or at the very least take it to a "do-it-yourself" carwash and pressure wash the block. I've done a few junkyard rebuilds in my life :)

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That one just had an intake manifold leak and I had to pull the valve covers for clearance. The old beast runs too well to rebuild just yet. I have a rebuilt 400 with a few thousand miles on it in the garage I might use. I am tempted to build a 455 but there is really no need for it. I used to quite like building engines and I might enjoy it again. I did kind of enjoy changing the manifold on the Pontiac as it was such an easy job.

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I love fixing problems and installing NEW "go-fast" parts. ;)

Live and learn... that's my motto.

scab_motor.JPG

 

My last rebuild as it came out. I've always had Alum heads b4 so I didn't know to paint the new-to-me iron Dart Jr. heads I put on this one... so they turned to rust on the car. I still need to pull it back apart and clean then paint the heads. :(

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That's a nice one. My current project car is a 200 year job. Every day I do a little bit of work on it when I get done worrying about trains that are millions of dollars in the red. I shouldn't complain though as I just got $274,000 added to my budget today for shuttle for a couple of the Caltrain stations we are closing. that makes this already a good day.

I have the world's worst 65 GTO that somebody will inherit when I die in the backyad with my torch in my hand.

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