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First new car in 20 years- 2003 Forester.

 

Great car so far!

 

I've always done the majority of mechanics on my domestics; Service contract over... now it's my turn.

 

Oil change-- no sweat, had to buy filter wrench, cause strap-types don't fit, no big deal.

 

Please, someone tell me that the rest of the maintenance isn't as big a PIA as the usually simple act of changing an air filter. The housing is so tight against the firewall I could barely squeeze the old filter out and the new one in, all the while not wanting to knock dirt off the old filter.

 

Wipe out the inside of the air cleaner housing? They gotta be kidding!

 

Thanks in advance.

 

JW

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First new car in 20 years- 2003 Forester.

 

Great car so far!

 

I've always done the majority of mechanics on my domestics; Service contract over... now it's my turn.

 

Oil change-- no sweat, had to buy filter wrench, cause strap-types don't fit, no big deal.

 

Please, someone tell me that the rest of the maintenance isn't as big a PIA as the usually simple act of changing an air filter. The housing is so tight against the firewall I could barely squeeze the old filter out and the new one in, all the while not wanting to knock dirt off the old filter.

 

Wipe out the inside of the air cleaner housing? They gotta be kidding!

 

Thanks in advance.

 

JW

 

 

Surprize!!!! Strap wrenches come in different sizes. The small size strap wrench works great on the oil filter in my Forester.

Ya, the air filter housing is a very tight fit. Use a genuine Subaru air filter, a lot of the after market filters will not fit.

If this air filter thing has got you a little bent out of shape, you might want to pass on changing the spark plugs.

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Thanks for the reply.

I'm always good to buy a new tool, if needed.

The Subaru manual hinted darkly that changing plugs would be no picnic.

We're not talking Pontiac Skyhawk(mighta been a Buick Sky-

something) difficult, are we, the 80's GM's where you had to lift the engine to change plugs?

I'm in it for the long haul and will be maintaining and repairing this car no matter what.

I was just a little surprised by the air filter thing. How much would it have cost Subaru to narrow that housing so it could come out easily?

Are these cars, overall, designed to be owner maintained?

 

JW

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I changed the plugs in my car, then had to change them again cause I got the wrong ones. It seems you can only use Subaru Platinum plugs and nothing else or your car runs like poo. So after changing them twice in 2 days I can get all 4 changed in about an hour. It sucks, really bad.

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Thanks for the reply.

I'm always good to buy a new tool, if needed.

The Subaru manual hinted darkly that changing plugs would be no picnic.

We're not talking Pontiac Skyhawk(mighta been a Buick Sky-

something) difficult, are we, the 80's GM's where you had to lift the engine to change plugs?

I'm in it for the long haul and will be maintaining and repairing this car no matter what.

I was just a little surprised by the air filter thing. How much would it have cost Subaru to narrow that housing so it could come out easily?

Are these cars, overall, designed to be owner maintained?

 

JW

 

Overall, these cars are above average for ease of owner maintenance and repair. For example, I replaced the front half axle on my 99 Forester last week. About one half hour for the job, not too bad. I routinely replace the oil, filter, and all the fluids on my Forester. I replace the spark plugs, hoses and drive belts. About the only thing the dealership has done on my car was the timing belt change at 100,000 miles. At 200,000 miles I think I might try changing the timing belt myself. If you don't have one, buy a torque wrench, you'll need it. Also, I HIGHLY recommend a Fumuto valve if you change your own oil. Pay attention to your tires, and rotate them as directed. Good luck. The monetary savings are secondary to me. I actually find it more convenient to service my car. Plus, I know the job was done right.

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I HIGHLY recommend a Fumuto valve if you change your own oil.

 

Heeeyyyy-- Are you hazing the new guy?

 

Is the Fumuto valve like a Fergazi pin?

 

Anyway, thanks. I'm really warming up to this little wagon. Took a real great (and economical) trip to Death Valley with the family in it last weekend. I'm always more comfortable knowing the beast I ride and its good to know there's help here while I figure it out.

 

JW

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Sorry, it's the Fumoto drain valve. This valve is highly recommended by many on this board. Changing the oil on your Subaru involves untightening the drain plug, installing a new crush washer, and then torquing the drain plug to spec. You install the Fumoto valve one time, then a flick of a secure lever drains your oil. Easy, clean, no crush washer, and no possible chance of cross-threading your drain plug.

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Spark plugs are easy in the newer Subarus. I just changed the factory (champions?) out of my wife's Legacy, I used Autolite and 3500 miles later it still runs fine, no need to go to the dealer to get raped for a set of plugs. I prefer NGKs in my vehicles and no plus anythings. I only used the Autolites because the local parts house didn't have any NGKs for the 2003 Legacy in stock.

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Googled Fumoto Valve.

Looks like a hot tip! The drain hose nipple would be nice; I'll take a closer look to see if it would protrude down too far.

The factory drain plug was the tightest I've ever come across. I was worried that I'd shear the spot welds from the pan. It'll be nice not to worry about that again.

It would also be great(with the nipple)for my '68 F-250 that drains directly onto a frame cross-member.

 

JW

 

Thanks also to Geoff and Bratman; I'm guessing there's much plug discussion on this board. I'll do a search.

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