harborseal55 Posted March 29, 2005 Share Posted March 29, 2005 I have had noise coming from my front end when turning the steering wheel to the right (same noise whether driving slowly or completely stopped, so I know that it's not axle noise). Upon inspection, I noticed that the right tie rod rubber boot (the long boot that covers the inner "ball" end of the tie rod) was completely torn in half, and guess that the boot needs to be replaced and that the likely source of noise seems to be the inner tie rod "ball" end that is now dry of lube. My question is, there seems to be nothing loose, so is it common to simply use my finger to grease this ball and replace the boot and not have to replace the tie rod ball end? There don't appear to be any grease fittings, so is it adequate to just add surface grease with your fingers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted March 31, 2005 Share Posted March 31, 2005 I don't even know if you can buy a boot. If it's been exposed to the elements, you really need to replace the tie rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnuman Posted April 1, 2005 Share Posted April 1, 2005 I don't even know if you can buy a boot. If it's been exposed to the elements, you really need to replace the tie rod. I think he is looking for this: https://www.parts.com/partlocator/index.cfm?action=getLocator&siteid=213799&chapter=AML732&appSectionid=21&groupid=10054&subgroupid=61895&componentid=0&make=32&model=Legacy&year=1992&graphicID=E732140&callout=3&catalogid=1 Item #3 is called a Tie Rod Boot, and goes for anywhere from $16 to $25. (they are the same for both sides) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted April 2, 2005 Share Posted April 2, 2005 oh ok....for the steering rack. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnuman Posted April 2, 2005 Share Posted April 2, 2005 Yeah, the other one is part of the outer tie rod. . . (you get a tie rod and it comes with it. . .) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
harborseal55 Posted April 2, 2005 Author Share Posted April 2, 2005 Yes, No. 3 in the diagram is the boot that protects the inner tie rod (one for left side and one for right side), and No. 2 in the diagram is the inner tie rod that has the "ball joint" where it connects to the steering rack. This ball joint is what is typically greased and where all of my noise is coming from. If it's noisy, is that already indication of inner tie rod failure because of the broken boot, or can the ball be regreased? If so, how would you regrease the ball, and with what type of grease? It's conspicuous that there appear to be no grease fittings for any part of the front end suspension - I've never had a car that didn't have fittings. Is periodic suspension greasing unneccessary on Subaru's for some reason? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scoobaroo Posted April 2, 2005 Share Posted April 2, 2005 Some WD-40 would probably stop the noise. If the ball and socket joint is tight, I'd smear some white lithium grease into the socket for long lasting lubrication, then replace the boot. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yohy Posted April 5, 2005 Share Posted April 5, 2005 Some WD-40 would probably stop the noise. If the ball and socket joint is tight, I'd smear some white lithium grease into the socket for long lasting lubrication, then replace the boot. harborseal55, I just did the inner tie rod (right side) on a '97 Legacy. My saga started with the same type of creaking noise you described . Upon investigation I found the inner tie rod end boot to be split and the joint was bone dry, causing the creaking/clunking noise. I spend a few hours working wheel bearing grease into the joint to the point where it was free to rotate. After that, I put on a new boot and “thought” I had the problem solved. Well I did solve the original noise. Now about three months later I started to hear a thunk/clunk noise from that side on wash board roads, worse at slow speed (probably could hear it better). Anyhow, the noise was from the inner joint, it still was free to rotate but there was just enough slop to allow it move in the joint, creating the thunk/clunk noise. If you are interested, I can give you some pointers. Again, my experience was on the right side but should be similar on the left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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