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I have a 92 legacy, 2.2L.

 

I am having ongoing problems with my car. A brief history, I had hard starting issues, erratic idle, poor fuel economy etc. Two codes always popped up 24 and 35 (fuel purge solenoid and air control valve) I found the problem to be that the one cylinder would not fire (sorry don't know what the number is, but it is the passenger side closest to the front.) I replaced the wires, plugs and the coolant temp. sensor, all these things helped and I thought I had the problem licked, no such luck.

 

The car runs much better except occassionally when I start the car the rpm's jump up to 1300-1400 and bouces around a little. I can go and pull the wire for the above mentioned cylinder and it doesn't affect the car at all (shouldn't this send a misfire code?). I'll shut the car off, start it again and everything is fine, and the CEL goes off. The car never misbehaves while driving, only on start up. The 2 codes will appear 24 and 35. The purge solenoid checked out fine when I tested it. The car will run very well, steady idle, no hesitation, good fuel economy etc. I wondered about the coil pack, but wouldn't that affect 2 cylinders? The connections are clean, plugs gapped properly and the wires are brand new. I've gotten 90% of the problem solved, now I'm stumped.

 

Thanks in advance

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swap plugs and wires from one side of the motor to the other. if the problem moves with the plugs/wire then you know one is faulty.

 

how many coil packs does it have (i haven't looked at my OBS yet)? if it has two, swap them as well and see if the problem moves to a different cylinder.

 

check for spark at the faulty cylinder. make sure the spark at that cylinder looks as good as the rest of the cylinders.

 

long shot and doubtful - fuel injector issue? leaky, dripping?

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Don't think it is the plugs or the wires. I had the problem with the old plugs and wires and with the new plugs and wires.

 

Here is a stupid question, can I take the coil pack off, flip it around 180 degrees, then hook it back up? If the problem went to the other side then it would be safe to say it is the coil pack.

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Beezer

Try putting an ignition relay in it , the relay has 2 sets of contacts in it that supply voltage to the ECM at two points . Sometimes one set of contacts stays open ,which can cause your codes to trigger .This is why if after you start the car and it runs bad ,then you shut it off and restart it , it reactivates the relay and gets a better contact

You can find the relay on the left hand side of the dash just above the inside fuses box(it is a PITA to get to) It is a brown square relay with a brown connector

 

SEA#3

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Probably should be replaced anyways, but it simply retards the timing when knock is detected due to early detonation. Doubtful it's having an impact.

 

 

 

Went looking for other problems again, noticed the knock sensor is cracked on top. Could this cause any of these problems?
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Knock sensor was at the heart of all the problems, I think things just started to snowball over the time it took to figure this out. If you enjoy the game "operation", then installing a knock sensor would be quite fun.........not a big fan of that game.

 

Oh yeah found a 4" gash in one of my tires too.... so I have 4 new ones now. So much for new struts.

 

Thanks for everybodies input.

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