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oil pump changing question


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9 replies to this topic

#1 erikvr

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Posted 05 April 2005 - 09:37 AM

So I am going to swap out my oil pump gasket, per everybody's advice. The question is: looks like I need to get the timing belts off to do this job, correct?

#2 MilesFox

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Posted 05 April 2005 - 09:57 AM

yeah, you have to take the passenger side off to get the driver side belt off. the oil pump drives from the driver side belt. this is so if running open belts too

dont forget about the shaft seal, behind the pulley. it can be difficult to remove without technique. you can wrap the rotor part in a rag and secure it in a vise to remove the nut and change the seal

#3 MorganM

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Posted 05 April 2005 - 10:32 AM

I bust the nut free on the oil pump drive gear before taking off the timing belts as they will hold it tight enough. Then pull the belts off and pull the pump off the motor.

#4 KStretch55

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Posted 05 April 2005 - 10:45 AM

Have you ever found the oil pump rotor worn beyond limits? I know the Haynes and Chilton books say to check the dimensions and if worn beyond limits get an oversized rotor. I've never been able to find anyone who stocks the oversized rotors and haven't heard of anyone who does anything but replace the seals. I don't want to replace the rotor if I don't really need to, and don't want to have to be dead in the water while I search for one either.

Advise me, oh yea of vast exerience! Thanks, Stretch

#5 85Sub4WD

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Posted 05 April 2005 - 10:57 AM

to be honest, I did not check rotor clearence - I just replaced the seals - I have never heard of the rotor wearing beyond the limits, I suppose it can, but as it is submerged in oil, I don't think it should if the engine has been maintained - just make sure you put EVERYTHING back together correctly, the same way as they came out

#6 pyromanic

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Posted 05 April 2005 - 12:36 PM

I'm not saying this is the right way, or the best way, only that it can be done without removing ANY belts. I did it a couple of weeks ago.

Once I had all the covers off, and the crank pully, I loosend the drivers side tensioner, shoved it as far as it would go, then retightened the bolt to hold the tensioner back off the belt. I made sure to take careful note of where the cam pullys were. (#1TDC just for my own reference), then carfully slipped that belt off the pump and tucked it out of the way.

Installed new pump.(in my case I did not want to screw around with just a gasket)

It was a little tricky getting the belt back on the tensioner and oil pump and making sure nothing changed on the cam pully, but it worked. Just had to pay attention. It worked for me.

Like I said, I did it this way mostly out of ignorance, I had never been into the fron of my engine before. But the belts only had 12000 miles on them so why disasemble any more than I had too?

Pyro

#7 Sweet82

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Posted 05 April 2005 - 03:46 PM

I don't know about EA82's but on my EA81, I found a small metal plate behind the oil pump.

I found this plate extremely easy to Break :banghead:

Be very careful removing this plate from your block or oil pump.

Good luck,
Glenn
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#8 MorganM

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Posted 05 April 2005 - 03:50 PM

I don't know about EA82's but on my EA81, I found a small metal plate behind the oil pump.

I found this plate extremely easy to Break :banghead:

Be very careful removing this plate from your block or oil pump.

Good luck,
Glenn
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Only on EA81. EA82's oil pump is quite different. Worst I've had in removing one was broke a bolt head off :(

#9 lunchbox

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Posted 05 January 2009 - 11:50 AM

just bought my 4wheel dr wagon with 211000 miles on it. sometimes i have oil pressure sometimes i don't. i've heard subarus can take alot. i'm getting ready to replace o rings and seals, gasket on my ea82 but would appreciate help before i tear into it in 8 degree weather in loveland colorado . are there any other members in this area? thanks, mike phelps

#10 Gloyale

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Posted 06 January 2009 - 03:29 PM

to be honest, I did not check rotor clearence - I just replaced the seals - I have never heard of the rotor wearing beyond the limits, I suppose it can, but as it is submerged in oil, I don't think it should if the engine has been maintained - just make sure you put EVERYTHING back together correctly, the same way as they came out


They can and do wear. One of the main reasons is people over tightening the pulley or not aligning it properly.

And also, the rotor is not submergbed, it is in the block, above the oil pan, and it is possible for the oil to drain back to the pan creating *dry* start conditions. Good quality oil filters prevent this. But point is, the pumps DEFINATELY can wear. Good to check. Most of them are fine.




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