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My 2000 Legacy Outback's 4EAT tranny was not engaging upon stopping until 2000 to 2500 rpm. One could apply the brake and rev the engine up till the tanny engaged. The non-engagement appeared to happen more with warmer weather. The main driving condition was accelerating from a stop and braking at the next stop, but allowing a small glide through at the end. However, sometimes the tranny would just not engage no mater what.

 

My spouse took the car to a shop (without asking or telling me but thate for Dr. Phil). The shop changed the fluid by draining the pan and replaced the filter. The car does better. The tanny ocassionally engages only at roughtly 1200 to 1500 rpm. The shop recommended rebuild through on of his friend's tranny shop.

 

I believe that this is probably a pressure issue in the tranny's shifting mechanism. or part of the lock up not releasing ( if the 4EAT is so equiped). First I want to replace the all the fluid including the torque converter. Can one take of the inlet hose into the tranny's cooler at the radiator and crank the engne over to expell the fluid in the torque converter? Will this hurt the torque converter fins?

 

Additionally, I would like to use synthetic fluid due its ability to maintain its flow while hot or cold. Any thoughts?

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Well what u wannt to do is called "transmission power flush" and in the shop is about 90 buck's.The way u wanna do it by your selfits the good way and synthetick is definetely best choice.But Do it like this:

 

Find two(2) budgets big enough to hold all tranny fluid ,then fill one up with new fluid(find yourself how much your tranny need).

Then unhook both hoses from radiator and place the one which is sucking the fluid from radiator to budget with new fluid.

And the other one to the second empty budget then start engine and wait until clear red fluid start comming out ....

Connect all back ,clean the mess and u are done..

Later i will post a link to better directions from other forum ..(now is not accessible)

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I just wanted to add that ATF change is not ment to be done when the tranny malfunctions but rather every 30000 miles as a part of maitenance. It sound like the AT is dying.

 

Yeah thats righ if its dying you'll just speed up process.

Sometimes tranny died after fluid change even there was no problems before.

Simlpy new fluid clean up the old gunk which hold tranny together.

So you decide.....

Good Luck

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be sure the trans pan is not dented severly. this can lower the clearance between the sump on the atf filter and the bottom of the pan and screw with the available line pressure causing really weird issues that are hard to track down. not likely, but something simple to check.

 

install an aftermarket transmission cooler.

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It's my understanding that the fluid in the converter doesn't just flow in and out like that. I do know that years ago, a hole had to be drilled on Chebby T.C's to drain them. Nature of the beast I think.

 

Probably the best thing is to change fluid regularly.

 

And if you do go in to have it rebuilt, find a local ATRA certified tranny place, and stay away from the powersellers at AAMCO, Mr. Transmission, etc.

 

If the guy at a local shop stands by his work, he'll give you phone numbers of satisfied customers you can call. Remember, it's your 1,500 bucks.

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