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Loose rear castle nut


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9 replies to this topic

#1 BobBrumby

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Posted 13 April 2005 - 03:25 AM

I supose ever since i have had my car the rear right 36mm castle has been loose. I thought it was just bearing noise so I had put it off but today when I was geting enthusiastic about doing some repairs, i thied to wiggle the wheel and to my horror it did. The wierd thing is that it had a split pin thru it so the P.O. must not have tightened last time brakes where done. So i thighened it down. Will these wheel bearings be screwed now? Likely to be any hub damage?

#2 MilesFox

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Posted 13 April 2005 - 09:18 AM

tighten it up and see if that cures the matter. if not, then consider the wheel bearing.

make sure all the washers are there, there is a cone washer first, then a flat washer. if these are missing there is the cause of your problem

if you indeend do have to replace the wheel bearing, there is a special socket required to access the inner bearing

the rear bearing on the outside is cone shaped, and the torque of the nut is what holds it all together. so a loose nut will let it wobble a bit. if its tight it should not wobble

#3 KStretch55

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Posted 13 April 2005 - 09:42 AM

Another thing to look for: what appears to be a flat washer that goes between the nut and the cone is really a type of lock washer. If you look closely one side should be stamped "OUT". Be sure you put the "OUT" side toward the nut. It's a spring steel washer and it's not really flat. If it's really worn, consider replacing it.

#4 KStretch55

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Posted 13 April 2005 - 09:45 AM

Oh, and there should be a dense rubber spacer that goes between the brake drum and the bearing. I've seen a lot of these missing, some books show them and some don't. But, it makes sense to have something there.

#5 MilesFox

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Posted 13 April 2005 - 09:51 AM

if there are no stampings on the washer, you will see that it is slightly convex, the convex side will face out and the concave side in, so that it clamps down along the outer diameter of the cone washer

the spacer, when you pack the bearings with grease pack in the space around the outside fo he spacer as well

if the the axle stub can be driven out in the same fashion as a front cv spindle, once you remvoe the rear axle first. there are roll pins on both sides of one axle, drop the diff from the rear hanger and move it sideways to take out he axle

#6 Sweet82

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Posted 13 April 2005 - 11:24 AM

I don't know about you but this seems like good information to archive, if it's not already.

If I was frustrated with a pile of parts, this would help me, get them all assembled correctly.

Is there a torque specification on the castle nut?

Glenn
82 SubaruHummer
01 Forester

#7 soobmater

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Posted 13 April 2005 - 11:30 AM

Some people told me as much as you can get it.

Sounds kinda funny though.

#8 soobmater

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Posted 13 April 2005 - 11:31 AM

wait scratch that

#9 KStretch55

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Posted 13 April 2005 - 12:25 PM

145 in/lbs, though I like his answer better, but about other things!! LOL

#10 pennswoodsed

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Posted 03 September 2007 - 05:45 PM

145 in/lbs, though I like his answer better, but about other things!! LOL



pretty sure 145 ft/lbs,no do old threads get read? ,yes!:dead:




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