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IAC cleaning revisited


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14 replies to this topic

#1 frag

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Posted 19 April 2005 - 09:49 AM

I'm about to clean the IAC valve on my car (slight idle roughness that new plugs and wires have not completely cured). Reading old posts, I was under the impression that you had to remove the entire valve body (horizontal bolts) and then the electrical part (vertical philips screws) making sure to mark it and replace it exactly the same.
A more recent thread seems to imply that you can just remove the electrical part (held by the vertical screws) to get to the part you need to clean.
Could those that have cleaned their IAC valve give their opinion on this. I would prefer not to remove the entire body (seems a little involved) if not necessary.
TIA.

#2 hklaine

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Posted 19 April 2005 - 11:18 AM

Hey There.

I don't see a way to clean this item by only removing the electrical portion with the vertical machine screws from the top.

I wish I had a photo of this thing...

The body of the IAC has a flapper inside of it which turns to open/close the port (I am sure you know this). This flapper is connected to a shaft which passes through a bearing and has a magnet at the end. This magnet is then surrounded by the electrical cap which causes it to open/close.

The part you want to clean is the body, which is separated from the magnet and electrical part by the bearing. I suppose it is physically possible to just remove the hoses from the body and spray some cleaner in there (which would then go into the engine - bang on startup ?), but I don't know if this is a good idea.

I suggest removing the body/electrical together (take out the horizontal bolts first) and then clean the body. Whether you even need to take off the electrical "cap"...I don't know. I did, but there wasn't really anything in there.

There is a gasket between the IAC and the engine, so you might want to pick that up before tearing this thing apart.

Hope this helps.

-Heikki

#3 Olnick

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Posted 19 April 2005 - 11:35 AM

Frag--I don't think you can give the IAC a thorough cleaning unless you take it out. Really isn't all that difficult to remove (shoot, if I can do it anyone can!) One rubber air hose, two small coolant hoses and three small bolts, that's all. Then you can hold it out, spray it generously and watch the gunk flow out.

Check out my suggestions to hklaine back on 3/26. And if you have any questions please feel free to ask.

Aloha.

#4 frag

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Posted 19 April 2005 - 11:38 AM

Thanks a million to both of you. Feel more confident now. Will report back when done.

#5 Olnick

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Posted 19 April 2005 - 12:00 PM

One more thought, Frag. Once you have the entire unit out, then remove the grey actuator cap (the two vertical machine screws)--that way you can turn the shaft while you spray for a more thorough cleaning.

Nice to see your response, hklaine. Did you notice a difference in running after the cleaning?

Aloha all, good luck.

#6 SevenSisters

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Posted 19 April 2005 - 08:04 PM

Let me hitch-hike on this thread. My IAC has slots in the electrical cover where the phillips screws go in for some kind of adjustment. What's this all about?

#7 Olnick

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Posted 20 April 2005 - 01:11 AM

SevenSisters: Can't really answer that. It would seem to suggest some amount of "adjustability." I just tried to replace it as close as possible to previous placement.

#8 frag

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Posted 20 April 2005 - 09:30 AM

Let me hitch-hike on this thread. My IAC has slots in the electrical cover where the phillips screws go in for some kind of adjustment. What's this all about?


I think this adjustment was made at the factory and must no be tampered with.

#9 beezer

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Posted 20 April 2005 - 12:24 PM

It can be adjusted, it alters the idle. It may adjusts other things too, I'm not sure. I played with it a little while, and the car does work. It is good advice just to put it back where you found it. I'm sure it was positioned there for a reason. If it is twisted counter clockwise the idle goes down and the idle goes up turning it clockwise if I recall correctly.

Forgot to add, I'm pretty sure it controls how much the shutter oscillating thingy inside opens. This is why it is a good reason to take the connector off when cleaning. I found a lot of gunk was at the point where the shutter stopped, I think this is where a lot of the sticking occurs. By taking the connector off you can get all this gunk off.

#10 SevenSisters

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Posted 20 April 2005 - 06:39 PM

Thanks! I'll try to get it back like it was.

#11 Olnick

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Posted 21 April 2005 - 03:19 AM

So Frag, how did it go? Or are you still out there in the dark spraying cleaner through that thing?

#12 frag

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Posted 21 April 2005 - 07:29 AM

So Frag, how did it go? Or are you still out there in the dark spraying cleaner through that thing?


He he... no I have'nt found the time to do it yet. But soon...

#13 Olnick

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Posted 21 April 2005 - 11:09 AM

Ooops! Sorry, Bro--don't mean to be pushy. But I think (emphasize "think") that it made a noticeable difference in the engine's operation and am interested in if others feel it.

#14 avk

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Posted 21 April 2005 - 02:24 PM

Endwrench has an article on fuel injection system, including IAC:
http://www.endwrench...ineManageFT.pdf

#15 hklaine

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Posted 21 April 2005 - 06:58 PM

I can't say I noticed much of a difference from the IAC alone as I did a few other things such as several tanks of fuel with injector cleaner and plugs/wires around the same time but there was certainly plenty of nasty gunk in there which I am sure shouldn't be in there. :)

-Heikki




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