98 outback engine disassembly

[wayneb]

Hi all;

 

I'm most of the way through disassembly for head gasket replacement and ran into a roadblock. I can't get two of the cam cap bolts loose and the heads are starting to strip. I've never experienced such tight bolts throughout an engine as this one. I'm thinking it's due to steel bolts in aluminium parts. Any suggestions on how to get bolts loose? I put kroil on bolts and will try again tomorrow but can't believe how tight certain bolts on engine have been the balancer bolt was a major challenge but finally broke loose. Can fasteners such as head bolts,cam cap bolts, and balancer bolt have antiseeze applied without cause detrimental effects? Bear with me I grew up working on chevy smallblocks this engine is a whole new world for me but quite interesting!

 

Thanks in advance;

 

Wayneb

[sea#3]

Thet can be a B**ch

You can try using a impact driver and a twist socket -like http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=65939&group_ID=11664&store=canada&dir=catalog

They are a special bolt and i'm not sure if you can get them seperatly ,so be careful

 

SEA#3

[Subarunation 713]

I jacked the engine WAY up so I could get a good square "grip" on the head of the bolt. The bolts on my 97 were TIGHT too but they came off without stripping. I used a breaker bar so there was less of a distance between the bold head and the right angle of the handle.

 

If that fails, get out my favorite tool....the gas wrench!! :-)

[ShawnW]

Do not use a "gas wrench" on this.

 

Go to Snap on or Sears and get this:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_SessionID=@@@@1965135022.1114658116@@@@&BV_EngineID=ccgiaddehjhekfjcegecegjdghldgfk.0&pid=00952160000&vertical=TOOL

 

The advantage of the Snap on linked above is its made for a 10MM and fits better but the craftsman will work.

 

Tap the socket onto the head with a brass hammer and then twist it off.

 

As for the head bolts they are just on there REAL well. They are 12 point head so its hard to mess them up. Just put the head up to the edge of the bench, breaker bar, 3" extension and 12Pt deep 14MM socket on the head bolts and push down hard and swiftly. Helps if you hold the back of the bell housing while you push with your right hand on the one side and hold the crankshaft on the other side.

[wayneb]

Hi All;

 

Thanks for all the wonderfull ideas. I've already removed passenger side head and had a 12pt 14mm impact socket for head bolts so they posed no problem.

 

The balancer bolt was a major pia. I ended up putting a strap wrench on balancer(i've have access to heavy duty one from work) and putting my foot on a breaker bar to get that one off.

 

I'm amazed at how difficult the cam bearing cap bolts are for thier size. I actually broke a snap on 3/8 drive socket just using a std 3/8 ratchet, never broke a snap on socket before!

 

Thanks for the suggested tools, I'm gonna chk out sears today, it's hard to find a snap on dealer other than online and I want to get the head off this evening.

 

Also, can I use anti-seeze on bolts during re-assembly? I used to do this with chevy engines all the time with no obvious problems.

 

Thanks;

 

Wayneb

[NOMAD327]

I always use never sieze whenever threading steel into aluminum (or loctite where applicable). A slight reduction on torque is a good idea with a lubricated fastener unless the spec calls for lubricated fasteners