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Guest Message by DevFuse

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@#$%!!! So I now know why I keep killing exhaust gaskets...

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6 replies to this topic

#1 JonOfScio



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Posted 05 September 2003 - 12:10 AM

My outermost stud on my passenger side exhaust flange decided it wanted to take as much aluminum as it could from the part it goes in to. YAY!

So, this part is NOT the head, is it? There looks like a metal line running from each side up, and I think it's the AIS system when the engine is REALLY cold, right?

Can I just get a new right side one of these, and not have to worry about heli-coiling it?

Around here, I'm sure I could find a soob of EA81 origin to steal this part from.



PS: anybody else run into this problem?

#2 TheSubaruJunkie



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Posted 05 September 2003 - 12:20 AM

I think the bolt runs through that spacer between the exhaust and the head, and actually threads into the head.

The stud is actually tapped into the thread, and everything else just bolts straight to the head.
Looks like you might have to heli-coil anyways.


#3 GeneralDisorder


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Posted 05 September 2003 - 01:13 AM

Ya know - there's probably enough metal there to tap out to the next size, and just use a nice long bolt instead of the silly stud. Take off that peice, and take a look at the head. Maybe one of your friends has a head you could inspect closely to see if there is enough metal. Heck - it's tempting to do this with all of the intake / exhaust studs, and replace them with stainless....


#4 TomRhere


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Posted 05 September 2003 - 07:49 AM

Simular problem on my '86, when I dropped the Y-pipe for replacement. You have 2 short bolts that hold the AIS adapter to the head, and 2 long studs that hold the exhaust to the head, going thru the adapter, per side. Out of the 4 long studs, I managed to break 2, and strip-out 1. And on the 4 shorter ones, I stripped out 2. Haven't done anything to the exhaust yet, still amassing parts for replacement, but when I do, I'll be retapping the holes in the head. You can run a 7/16"-14 tap into the holes, with-out having to pre-drill. I used a starter tap first, then followed up with a bottoming tap. I used this method on my '82, and it works great. You can use either a bolt, or get some threaded rod from a parts store, and make your own studs. Whatever you do, be sure to use some anti-sieze on the threads. Thinking it was Archemetis that mentioned the use of the 7/16" bolt. I really like the idea of coarse threads in aluminum, vs fine thread. Less likely to strip-out, which is a good thing. Another plus is, it's cheaper than a Heli-coil kit. Haven't checked on the hole size in the AIS adapter as to whether the 7/16" bolt will fit thru them, but they can be drilled out to fit easily enough. Not planning on using the adapters on the '86 when I do the exhaust, don't need to worry about emission stuff here. Removed that stuff from the '82 already. So now you have a few different approaches to solving you delema. Good luck..........................

#5 JonOfScio



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Posted 05 September 2003 - 08:30 AM

do I absolutely need the AIS system?

It's only ever on for like, literally, a minute.

#6 Subyaddict


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Posted 06 September 2003 - 08:05 PM

I think I prefer studs. The last time I removed my y-pipe, which wasn't too long ago, it came out quite easily with some knocker loose (thread lubricant) even though the studs were very rusted. I went the hardware store with one of the good ones, and got all-new stainless studs.
It was my dad's suggestion, but I agreed with the idea. I also thought that bolts would be better. My dad said it's not worth trying to get the length exact so you have all the threads but don't bottom out. He also said with studs you have a better chance of removing them once they get rusted again, because there is both a stud and a nut that could possibly break loose before stripping out. Good point I think.
The adapter plate with the line coming out of it at the exhaust manifold leads to the anti-backfire valve (reed valve). My 83 has only one on the driver side, but my 84 had one on each side. The 84 never backfired, but the 83 rarely does.
If this ever goes out on you it can be rebuilt with the reed valve kit available at baxters and such. FYI

#7 MilesFox


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Posted 07 September 2003 - 03:48 AM

hee hee the smiley tom...

hey, the threads on jims turbo motor actually held enough torque for the cross- pipe.
and here is the part you didn't know....the gaskets dont leak now that it runs:brow:

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