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How to remove stuck EA82 rear CV?


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20 replies to this topic

#1 Flowmastered87GL

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Posted 02 May 2005 - 11:55 PM

My rear brakes and rear wheel bearings are toast on my GL so I decided to convert the whole rear end to disk brakes (with a sway bar)

While trying to remove the old parts the passenger rear CV would NOT let go of the stub in the hub. This was the hub with a REALLY bad bearing, the wheel had started to wobble!

I have since removed the whole assembly and installed an extra CV in the car for now, but would prefer to use the old one if possible, or at the very least salvage it for a spare.

The pin is removed for sure, I have hit it with PB blaster, pryed and pryed with a screwdriver and its still in its stock place (I could re-install the pin is how little its moved)

Maybe rust has fused it together?

Maybe heat from the failed bearings has warped parts making them fuse?

Ideas?

I'm thinking air hammer at Richie's shop :brow:

#2 grossgary

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Posted 03 May 2005 - 12:05 AM

i'd hit it with PB blaster/liquid wrench for a couple days in a row then try it. you could try heat on the hub side if you have a torch? bearings are toast so who cares about that anyway.

#3 pyromanic

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Posted 03 May 2005 - 12:16 AM

I had the same problem with a stuck rear axle a while ago. I beat it off with a hammer. Hit it on the fat part on the radius, turn hit it again. Didn't ruin it either. I think it was Miles Fox who turned me on that. It was real tight all the way off the splines, so tight that one I DID get it off, I realized there was no way it was ever gonna get pried off. BFG was the only possibility. Heck, it had probably been there close to 20 years. Fused with rust. Hope this helps.

By the way, I was pretty scared I'd ruin it that way, but didn't.

Pyro

#4 Flowmastered87GL

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Posted 03 May 2005 - 12:18 AM

Ya I am pretty sure its the original axle from 1987 with 316,000 miles on it.

#5 ShawnW

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Posted 03 May 2005 - 08:28 AM

You may have to remove it as stub and axle, then press the stub off with a press.

#6 MorganM

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Posted 03 May 2005 - 08:38 AM

1" chizle, 3lb hammer, and apply sufficently to DOJ housing. That's hout I got some real tough ones off. PB Blaster helps alot too.

#7 Hondasucks

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Posted 03 May 2005 - 06:29 PM

might try an air chisel or a blue flame wrench if you have access to one, Heat up the axle, idea is to make it expand, crushing the rust or whatever is holding it where it's at (by axle I mean the stub, but you could also try heating the housing, as when it expands it will likely break free whatever is holding it in place..

#8 TROGDOR!

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Posted 29 May 2005 - 02:28 PM

Back to top.

We've tried all of the above (except the air tools) and haven't moved the axle a MILLIMETER. It's fused on on both ends! Just wanting to get the diff out of the car. Any other suggestions?

#9 singletrack

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Posted 29 May 2005 - 09:21 PM

FIRE!

I use a propane torch on mine and the bearings, boots, stubs, and cv's are none the worse for it.

I've beat on axles for literally hours to no avail, only to have them come off in a few minutes with the torch.

#10 Flowmastered87GL

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Posted 30 May 2005 - 02:10 AM

In my case, I just had to scrap the CV AND trailing arm. Richie and I tried air hammering it out and it didnt move a millimeter!

Since Brad hooked me up with a whole rear suspension setup AND a CV for a good price I just used all that.

So in my case it just wasnt worth salvaging.

#11 rdweninger

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 02:03 PM

Ok... so I searched for removing rear axle from an EA82 and found this.

The question is... how to remove the rear axle? Do I have to remove the trailing arm (with axle in it)?

Help.... I just want to install my new axle shaft.

Thanks in advance to those with experience doing this.



#12 ShawnW

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 04:59 PM

I drop the differential when I do one.  That gives you enough flex to slide one end off and then attack the other.  



#13 ferox

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 06:24 PM

I drop the differential when I do one.  That gives you enough flex to slide one end off and then attack the other.  

 

+1, I unbolted the mustache bar ends last time and that gave me enough movement to slide the DOJs off easily.  You don't need to drop the trailing arms.  You will have a roll pin/spring pin/tension pin at either end of the half-shaft; one in the outer CV joint and one in the inner double-offset joint (DOJ).  You just need to remove those pins with a 3/16" punch, slide the CV and DOJ off the splined stubs and reverse the dis-assembly procedure for installation.  This does not take into account the possibility that the axle may be stuck on the splines from age...that's a topic that has been covered so searching again will help there.

 

There is only one way that the CV and DOJ will slip onto the stub shafts that will allow the spring pin to be reinstalled correctly; however, if they are installed 180 degrees off, it can look like the spring pin will go back in.  Once you have the CV or DOJ slid back on the stub shaft, slide your 3/16" punch through the pin hole to make sure it goes all the way through easily, that will align the hole and prevent you from pounding the spring pin into a bad situation.  I also recommend realigning the hole from the backside with the punch while reinstalling the spring pin until the pin is partially in the center stub shaft.



#14 rdweninger

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 07:06 PM

Thank you both for the replies. I have replaced several front axles on my EA82's. But never the rear axles. So here is my situation. I was replacing the rear shocks/struts... and noticed my axle boot is torn. So once I remove the rear strut... what is the quickest way to remove the rear axle?
Also, I broke a few 3/8" drive components. Am heading to Sears for 1/2" Craftsman tools... I will be buying 17mm, 19mm and 22mm and a 10" extension. Any other socket sizes I need when dealing with the rear struts, trailing arm and differentional??? (I have a 3/4" drive 36mm already)
Thank you for your help. I wish there was another Subie Nut in Tillamook County!

#15 MilesFox

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 09:42 PM

If you end up removing the rear diff from its front mount, the head of the bolt is 22mm (7/8") and the nut is 19mm.

 

A lot of the time i have resorted to pulling the diff and/or trailing arms to remobve the axles with heat, penetrant, and a 4 lb hammer



#16 Flowmastered87GL

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 11:35 PM

wow old thread.... this was posted just before the engine in my GL let go.



#17 MilesFox

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Posted 11 February 2013 - 11:41 PM

I had just landed in wisconin the month that this was posted.



#18 rdweninger

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Posted 12 February 2013 - 02:19 PM

OK... Last night I tried to remove the rear strut (They will be replaced with new ones)... The 2 top bolts (17mm) came loose. However, the lower strut mount bolt (17mm) and the nut (19mm) have denied my every attempt to loosen them. The nut is on the outer side and the bolthead is on the inner side. Any tricks to getting them off? I checked to see if the nut was welded on... but it seems not. So I'm wrenching the nut counterclockwise. Can't really get a throw on the inner bolthead due to the axle.
I guess I could drop the trailing arm and the diff... but what happens to the brake line when it falls? Big bolts suck! Any ideas?

#19 thecrazyslopoke

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Posted 04 September 2013 - 03:29 PM

Having the same problem. My axle is stuck on the outer spline. How much heat should I apply?

#20 MilesFox

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Posted 04 September 2013 - 04:04 PM

Having the same problem. My axle is stuck on the outer spline. How much heat should I apply?

Enough to sweat out moisture and allow penetrant lube to soak in



#21 BoxerRebellion

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Posted 05 September 2013 - 12:01 PM

DOJ (DepartmentOfJustice) ZING!

 

Get it? - Get it?






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