6 replies to this topic

[s'ko]

Thanks to all who helped me with the exhaust stud size. It's a metric bolt 10 with 1.25 pitch.

Well I bolted everything up again and it still leaks at the heads.

There is also some exhaust coming from the stove pipe drain hole.

Anyways. Originally my exhaust wasn't fitting snug so I cut the driver side pipe and tried to re-weld it. Obviously that didn't work b/c the leak is still there.

Anyone here work on exhausts or have done it before? What are some tips on getting it nice and snug?

thanks

BW

[s'ko]

bump due to edit.

[MorganM]

I go to the junkyard with a hacksaw. Pull off the Y pipe and just cut off the "headers". That will give you a nice OEM flange and 90 degree bend. Can't buy a whole Y pipe around here due to EPA Bolt them on tight and start welding. Done up lots of exhaust systems this way now.

If you need some "headers" let me know. I can hack some off and ship them out for ya

[SuBrat84]

If you're set on using your exsisting y-pipe here's what you need to do to get it to stop leaking.. You're going to have to carefully cut off the stupid little heat port that goes to the air box.. There is a seam below all that extra metal that likes to rust out... you might need to find a spare piece of steel to cover the hole if it's very big.. you're going to have a near impossible time welding that up with an auto feed style welder.. so what you're going to need is a welding torch that you can use some scrap steel to "Braze" it onto the pipe... this may require some grinding / more brazing / grinding / to find and cover all the holes.. you can weld the heat port back on if you feel you live in a cold enough climate that it helps warm up your car.. but it's not needed. As for sealing the parts that bolt together get new gaskets and "Ultra Copper" sensor safe high temp rtv silicone gasket maker from autozone etc. I think it's around $6 a tube. Well worth it in my opinion. Use it to coat both sides of the gasket and stick that puppy on there! Both sides of every gasket on your exhaust line. They wont leak at the seals anymore. DO NOT use this stuff on your valve cover or head gaskets!!! It's strictly, in my opinion, for helping seal exhaust gaskets! Good luck!

[ausubaru92]

I made my own header, I went to an exhaust shop and bought some 1&3/4" pipe and while i was there i asked the guy if he could put a coulple bends in it for me, and then i went to the wreckers and cut off 2 flanges and i was ready to weld.

Prepare your flanges so your new pipe will fit snug againtst them, bolt them up into position and then fit your pipe and tack weld it in position, unbolt it and continue to weld, here is mine
http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=35411

Hope this helps

[s'ko]

I made my own header, I went to an exhaust shop and bought some 1&3/4" pipe and while i was there i asked the guy if he could put a coulple bends in it for me, and then i went to the wreckers and cut off 2 flanges and i was ready to weld.

Prepare your flanges so your new pipe will fit snug againtst them, bolt them up into position and then fit your pipe and tack weld it in position, unbolt it and continue to weld, here is mine
http://www.ultimates...ead.php?t=35411

Hope this helps

Nice. I have to have to have the cat on and the hot air pipe. Those are part of the emission stuff so they must be on there.

Well looks like I was on the right track. I guess I went wrong when I put pressure on the pipes w/a floor jack. They may have made the exhaust not fit right. Back to the drawing board.

Thanks for all of the input.

BW

[s'ko]

well cut into the header with the hot pipe outlet.

Found a crack that goes atleast 1/2 around the pipe behind shield.

I will have to go to the yard and get another pipe to weld on.

Yeah!!! another excuse to go to the junk yard