JWX Posted September 7, 2003 Share Posted September 7, 2003 if the thermo switch(fan switch) is the same on an 84 and an 82? teh reason I ask is I have an 82 wagon rad in my 84 hatch and I had the fan just running conn but now with a new water pump, hoses, fluid, and a good flush it won't warm up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 7, 2003 Share Posted September 7, 2003 So - to clarify, your saying that the fan is still running constantly, and keeping the engine from warming up? If that's what you mean, then I would check out your themostat, since even if the fan ran all the time, if the thermostat were working properly, then the engine would still reach operating temp cause the fluid wouldn't flow into the rad till it opened. And as for the thermoswitch - you should test it - just heat it up (blowtorch maybe?) and see if you get continuity. I don't think there's much to that switch, so I don't see why they would be different.... GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWX Posted September 7, 2003 Author Share Posted September 7, 2003 see the problem is that is is warming up just very slowly(like an hour) and I know thermo switch is bad cause the wire that comes out of it broke off when I was putting the rad in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted September 7, 2003 Share Posted September 7, 2003 I think there is a very good chance that they are the same. If they fit the same I would think the temperature setting is the same also. You may have a thermostat issue also like the other poster said or your temperature gauge is not working correctly. The engine temperature has to more than you are really seeing I would think. I would verify the coolant temperature with a thermometer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JWX Posted September 7, 2003 Author Share Posted September 7, 2003 well I installed a manuel temp gauge. I might get another thermostat from SOA. but for right now I'm going to get a thermo switch and replace it and see what happens. and can I just stick like a meat thermometer in the rad to see what the temp is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 7, 2003 Share Posted September 7, 2003 The radiator isn't where you need to test the temp. And I would do a test run with the fan disconnected completely. The thermostat is entirely mechanical, and should allow the engine to heat up if it's working properly. Test the easy stuff first - take the thermostat out, and put it in boiling water with a thermometer. If it's bad it will either be stuck open, or will not open at the specified temp. New ones are like $10 or so, so it would be an easy thing to test / replace. GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted September 7, 2003 Share Posted September 7, 2003 That should be fine as long as you can get a fairly accurate temp reading . Be carefull when opening the radiator cap if you take it off while it is running. It may be better to leave the cap off while it is cool then test the coolant after about ten minutes of warm up. The coolant temperature should be in the "Well Done" range. Ha ha. If the coolant is not getting warm then you may have a stuck closed thermostat and that would not be good. If the engine temp gauge is working ok it should show the engine is hot after about 10 minutes of idling and you have a stuck thermostat, I would think. With all due respects to GD's comment of not measuring the coolant temperature at the top of the radiator, I disagree. If things are working ok the temerature of the coolant will be pretty close to the engine block temperature since the coolant flows out of the engine to there. If the thermostat is stuck closed then it will be obvious there is a blockage by the low temperature reading. It is also very easy to test the temp there. If I want to check the temperaure sensor I will use an ohmmeter to check the resistance of the sensor and compare that to the data sheet for temp/resistance values. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Subyaddict Posted September 7, 2003 Share Posted September 7, 2003 You can put the thermal switch in boiling water as well. Don't use a blow torch. Usually these things end up with the engine being too hot not too cold. maybe your temp guage isn't working right. Or there could be air in the system. Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GeneralDisorder Posted September 7, 2003 Share Posted September 7, 2003 Of course - as Cougar says - if everything is working properly, then the radiator will be pretty hot too. And if it is.... then your gauge is bad, or the sending units is bad. But if it isn't, then you should check out your thermostat. They go bad a lot, so check it first. It's really easy to do anyway. However - as I recall - Skip said he tested with NO thermostat to see if it would warm up slower, and he found that it took only about 45 seconds longer to heat up with no thermostat present. So it very well could be your gauge, or the sending unit. I personally have experienced the bad sending unit. My car had the feedback carb, and was able to tell me the problem, but I wouldn't have known otherwise. Also - the fan thermoswith is not the same as the sending unit. The sending unit is located in the intake manifold. There are procedures for testing it as well, but I let the ECU do it for me. Mine was bad, and so was another I got from the JY - ended up buying a new one for $15. Heat is your worst enemy - get it fixed soon! Oh - and I sugested blow torch cause I didn't want to be responsible for someone trying to test electrical parts around boiling water. Besides - it should work right? Might be a little hard to gauge the temp I guess - but hey - just drink a few brews first, and I'm sure you would figure something out GD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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