nebmaster Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 Hey everyone, I started changing my tie rod ends/balljoints today, and unfortunatly the head of the bolt on the driver's side that holds the upper end of the balljoint in is rounded off rather badly. I was thinking of JB welding a cheap socket to it, and then trying to get it off...but I thought I'd ask before I did anything to screw it up any worse. Anyhow, sugesstions are welcome. Thanks in advance P.S. It's a 1996 Legacy L AWD 2.2L Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SuBrat84 Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 Vice Grips? I hate stripping the head of a bolt. Your best bet is a good pair of vice grips.. get it real tight it should bite into the bolt pretty good. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ShawnW Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 JB weld won't hold it, sorry. Heat it with a Mapp gas or Propane torch, then smack the end where its broken off with a punch, and if you have any part of the end showing grab it with vise grips and turn it (helps to figure out how tight before heating btw). If you dont, get the drill out and put a left hand drill bit in there while its hot. Otherwise get a new knuckle and press new wheel bearing in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlyFlicker Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 Craftsman bolt extractor set! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NorthWet Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 Craftsman bolt extractor set! OOOHHHH!!!! Shineeeeyyyyy!!!! My PRECIOUSSSSSSSSSSSSS!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frag Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 If the bolt is not to badly rust welded in place, I would... 1) try the Craftsman bolt extractor. and if unsuccesful... 2) would mig weld a cheap socket on the bolt. You could have this done for cheap at any welding shop. 3) If that fails or if you break the bolt's head trying to remove it, then the last resort is drilling off the part of the bolt where the threads are (rear half of the bolt. Get a new bolt to know how far you have to drill), then remove the bolt and replace it with a longer bolt and lock nut. I had to do this twice, on my former Loyale and on my Legacy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NV Zeno Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 Vise Grips have worked every time for me. Just my 2 bucks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jclay Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 Same thing happened to me, I used my Craftsman Bolt Extractor Set, worked like a charm. I'm not sure how the one pictured came, but mine was half-full, you buy the first (partial)set, then the second... Still, not a bad thing to have around! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swi66 Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 I've split nuts with an air chisel before, on tie rods. Then had to find a replacement castleated nut............. Snap-On makes a bolt extractor set like that as well, at least 3 times the price! swi66 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebmaster Posted May 18, 2005 Author Share Posted May 18, 2005 Yeah, so I bought the Craftsman bolt extractor. It did a really good job gripping onto the head and allowing me to apply quite a bit of torque...unfortunatly the side I tried on was so severely rust welded in place that the head broke off. I guess now I have no choice but to drill the whole thing out... Oh well, guess it happens.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjo Posted May 18, 2005 Share Posted May 18, 2005 You obviously didn't use enough PBB Blaster i think i go through a can each time i go under that car... might just be my obession though... heh but seriously, i couldn't get 2 bolts out... i snapped my breaker bar trying... brought it into the shop, had them try, they broke it. and fixed it right up. PBB Blaster didn't get in there it was so bad... eh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBigJ Posted May 19, 2005 Share Posted May 19, 2005 Yeah, so I bought the Craftsman bolt extractor. It did a really good job gripping onto the head and allowing me to apply quite a bit of torque...unfortunatly the side I tried on was so severely rust welded in place that the head broke off. I guess now I have no choice but to drill the whole thing out... Oh well, guess it happens.... Well you don't have to drill the whole thing out necessarily. You can still drill a little hole in the center of the threaded rod and use one of the screw/bolt extractors that looks like a reverse threaded screw. As you screw it in it grips tighter and tighter because the diameter increases slightly, like a pin reamer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shimonmor Posted May 19, 2005 Share Posted May 19, 2005 HEAT IS YOUR FRIEND. I work on boats and rusted fasteners are a daily chore. Propane or Mapp gas torches work ok but I like an OxyAcetelyne set-up if you got one. A good dose of heat will always break free the most stubborn offenders. Also a dose of Aerokroil (I used to be a PB Blaster guy till I tried Aerokroil). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frag Posted May 19, 2005 Share Posted May 19, 2005 Well you don't have to drill the whole thing out necessarily. You can still drill a little hole in the center of the threaded rod and use one of the screw/bolt extractors that looks like a reverse threaded screw. As you screw it in it grips tighter and tighter because the diameter increases slightly, like a pin reamer. Good advice most of the time, but my experience is that when the bolt is so rust welded that the head breaks trying to remove it, no bolt extractor will be able to exert enough torque to get it out. But that's only MY experience. Good luck! P.-S.: If you try the bolt extractor route, heed also Shimonor's advice and heat the bolt surroundings to red before trying to take it out. Another method is to heat the bolt itself and let cool to break the rust. Dont forget to heat specialy the part where the threads are. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
All_talk Posted May 19, 2005 Share Posted May 19, 2005 HEAT IS YOUR FRIEND. I work on boats and rusted fasteners are a daily chore. Propane or Mapp gas torches work ok but I like an OxyAcetelyne set-up if you got one. A good dose of heat will always break free the most stubborn offenders. YES, get it glowing dull red, it will come right out. Also a dose of Aerokroil (I used to be a PB Blaster guy till I tried Aerokroil). And YES, Kroil is the best I've found. Gary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted May 19, 2005 Share Posted May 19, 2005 although its better to use heat on a rusted bolt before you screw it up. You can do some amazing things you shouldn't with an oxy aceteleyne torch. I have cut out truck kingpins without damaging the axle. Here in CA we don't have anywhere near the battle you do in salt states. When I pulled the supension in my Subaru last year I didn't use heat or oil and it came right apart. In rare cases an extractor will pull a rounded off bolt when you cut the head off. The tension is then removed, but if it is the threads that are rusted you are still screwed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jukeit Posted May 19, 2005 Share Posted May 19, 2005 Take a grinder with the proper wheel and cut the head off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackbart Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 That Craftsman Bolt Out set is the most usefull tool I bought in the last ten years. Fisrt I borrowed my friend's, then I bought the regular set (strong but wide), the impact set (3/8" drive) and the power bit set (stick it in a screw gun or turn it with a 1/4" socket). They only come with a ONE YEAR warrranty, not the lifetime one. Save your receipt, the impact and the power bits can break, I just got back from Sears tonight, they replaced two that I broke. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nebmaster Posted May 20, 2005 Author Share Posted May 20, 2005 Thanks for all of the advice...The ez-outs didn't work (wishful thinking I suppose...) so I took the whole strut tower out and I'm gonna be taking it to a machine shop tommorow. Hopefully they can help... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cookie Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 When you have the thing out where you can work on it and have tools like presses and drill press it is much easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.