Differential bucks

[singsbass]

I have a 1996 Legacy Wagon AWD with 140,000. I have had this problem since about 40000. The buking(which seems to be in the front wheels only) only occurs when I corner at low speeds, so I lived with it. I'm thinking of repairing it. Would anyone know what I'm in for in cost to have a garage do it? And is it worth it? Thanks.

[GLCraig]

I'm guessing that you have an automatic transmission and the symptoms described a case of torque bind. Since there are a couple of different causes of this, I couldn't give you an estimate on what it would cost to fix it.

[All_talk]

Definitely sounds like torque bind, again assuming it’s an A/T, there are two common causes:

 

First, on the pre ’97 (I think that’s the year) there is an issue with wear between the rear output hub and the housing, it had no bearing and runs in the aluminum housing. Cure is a new rear housing, preferably the later style with the bearings.

 

Second, the infamous “C” solenoid, it controls the engagement of the rear transfer clutch. It works on a duty cycle with full time/voltage being open and zero time/voltage closed, so if it fails the rear drive locks in all the time. You might try putting the FWD fuse in and see if the bind goes away (sends full power to the solenoid), if so, that would indicate the C solenoid is working.

 

Both problems can be fixed with the trans in the car and if you’re handy could be a DIY. Hear is a pic of the tail housing and the C solenoid.

Gary

[singsbass]

Thanks for the info. Unfortunately, when it comes to cars I'm not handy. I'll try the FWD fuse(did you mean pull it out or is it put it in. I have AWD auto trans). Would you know if this would be under $1000 to fix, or over? Thanks again.

Definitely sounds like torque bind, again assuming it’s an A/T, there are two common causes:

 

First, on the pre ’97 (I think that’s the year) there is an issue with wear between the rear output hub and the housing, it had no bearing and runs in the aluminum housing. Cure is a new rear housing, preferably the later style with the bearings.

 

Second, the infamous “C” solenoid, it controls the engagement of the rear transfer clutch. It works on a duty cycle with full time/voltage being open and zero time/voltage closed, so if it fails the rear drive locks in all the time. You might try putting the FWD fuse in and see if the bind goes away (sends full power to the solenoid), if so, that would indicate the C solenoid is working.

 

Both problems can be fixed with the trans in the car and if you’re handy could be a DIY. Hear is a pic of the tail housing and the C solenoid.

Gary

[All_talk]

Thanks for the info. Unfortunately, when it comes to cars I'm not handy. I'll try the FWD fuse(did you mean pull it out or is it put it in. I have AWD auto trans). Would you know if this would be under $1000 to fix, or over? Thanks again.

 

You put a fuse IN the "FWD" fuse holder, its under the hood near te firewall on the passenger side.

 

I'd guess it would be less than $1000, but I'm not sure, I do virtually all my own work so I dont have a good idea what shops charge.

 

Gary

[singsbass]

Thanks for the clarification, I'll try that first to see.

You put a fuse IN the "FWD" fuse holder, its under the hood near te firewall on the passenger side.

 

I'd guess it would be less than $1000, but I'm not sure, I do virtually all my own work so I dont have a good idea what shops charge.

 

Gary