Colored Turtle Wax

[blitz]

Waxing around all the black hardware attached to the body (e.g. moldings, mirrors, roof rack, hood vents) is a hassle, then afterwards the white residue becomes visible.

 

I tried the BLACK Turtle Wax "Color Cure" product on both my Savannah Green '02 OBS and my Whatever Blue '00 OBS and...

 

It does a pretty decent job of hiding the scratches by darkening them. I'm pretty geeked with the results, thought I'd pass that along.

[swc7916]

The best car polish on the planet (or at least, the best I've tried) is Zaino's.

 

http://www.zainostore.com/

[blitz]

Will it leave a white crust around all the black Outback trim? It's possible that you read complete past my point.

[swc7916]

Will it leave a white crust around all the black Outback trim? It's possible that you read complete past my point.

 

No. It is not a wax, it is a polymer of some sort. It is clear and does not leave any residue. If you claybar the car and use Zaino's, you can hardly set anything on the hood; it will slide off. It is very easy to apply - there is no buffing required, you just wipe it off. You can even use it on your windshield; it works better than Rain-X. It is a bit pricey, but now that I've tried it I wouldn't use anything else.

[Andyman53]

Quick question. I've looked around some autozone's and pepboy's in the area and they don't have clay bars, some detailing stuff i've read about online or alot of the meguirs accessories i've been looking for. Eg. California water blade, tool for cleaning the inside (kinda like a wooden handle with mop like strings), tool for cleaning the outside (kinda the same thing, made for the outside).

 

Any recommendations?

 

Thanks In Advance.

[bjwirth]

No. It is not a wax, it is a polymer of some sort. It is clear and does not leave any residue.

 

a wax is also a polymer and zaino's got to leave behind some kind of residue, otherwise where's the protection?

 

I'm not knocking zaino, I've heard good things about it. but wax is wax- some are "all in one" and some are "systems" where you have multiple steps.

 

I used to work in paint formulations, and just the nature of wax to be compatible chemically with a clearcoat surface (even zaino I bet) will have components in it which will affect the rubber trim.

 

I would recomend against using wax for the average person. 99% of the time, I can see paint damage on cars where people have regularly waxed their cars- mostly the guys who think theyre doing a good job. Don't get me wrong, the cars always look great after theyre waxed, but then you got to wax your car from then on to keep it looking nice.

[blitz]

I would recomend against using wax for the average person. 99% of the time, I can see paint damage on cars where people have regularly waxed their cars- mostly the guys who think theyre doing a good job. Don't get me wrong, the cars always look great after theyre waxed, but then you got to wax your car from then on to keep it looking nice.

Wow, that's pretty heavy.

 

Clarify for me just a bit: are you suggesting that the finish not be tended to at all? I've seen plenty of finishes that have turned into ash as a result of total neglect. Conversely I've never had a problem keeping color and sheen on my cars for 10-11 years by just giving a good clean/wax once a year.

 

I've HAVE seen auto-trim care products (Armor-maul, etc.) deteriorate the trim they're designed to protect at a rate faster than what they would without said chemical enhancement, but the painted finish... now that's a new one to me.

[swc7916]

a wax is also a polymer and zaino's got to leave behind some kind of residue, otherwise where's the protection?

 

Zaino's is not an organic wax like carnuba. It is a synthetic "wax" that does not have the low melting of a wax. It has to "cure" rather than harden like a wax and leaves very little residue. 2 ounces will coat a whole car. The residue is very thin is easy to wipe off. It doesn't need to be buffed. I works great on plastic; I coat the headlights and the lens on the tailgate of my Outback with it.

 

The website doesn't get into specifics of the chemistry, but I have tried it and it is the easiest to apply, longest lasting, glossiest "wax" I have ever used. Even my wife commented that she couldn't resist running her hand on the car whenever she walked by it.

[bjwirth]

Wow, that's pretty heavy.

 

Clarify for me just a bit: are you suggesting that the finish not be tended to at all? I've seen plenty of finishes that have turned into ash as a result of total neglect. Conversely I've never had a problem keeping color and sheen on my cars for 10-11 years by just giving a good clean/wax once a year.

 

the problem is not with the wax, but the technique, that most people have a problem with. if your car isn't CLEAN, and you're not using the right applicator, then you end up sanding your car. after you apply the wax, the small gashes are filled in, giving you a smooth glassy finish. when the wax wears away, the gashes show up (swirl marks and streaks), so you apply another layer of wax to "smooth" out the swirls and fill in the streaks and it looks great again. but each time, you're effectively sanding the clear coat. Plus, some of these department store or all-in-one waxes are formulated with fine grit in it to polish the surface to remove oxidized paint to help bring out the luster.

 

My dad's 94 lexus looks great (owned since new)- it's even a dark charcoal where its easiest to see imperfections in the paint. you can beleive he's NEVER waxed the car- just runs it through a car wash from time to time.

 

I'm not saying don't wax your car- if you want a good shine, you basically have to. It just seems most people get the bug to "clean" their car, buy some wax or protectant, and do more damage than if they had just left it alone. my wife had a black car she once bought used. we HAD to wax that car regularly because the previous owner did a crappy job of waxing it. I don't care what the manufactures say, once the swirl marks are in the finish, the average car owner wont get them out without a LOT of effort most people aren't willing to go through.

[bjwirth]

Zaino's is not an organic wax like carnuba. It is a synthetic "wax" that does not have the low melting of a wax. It has to "cure" rather than harden like a wax and leaves very little residue.... I works great on plastic; I coat the headlights and the lens on the tailgate of my Outback with it.

 

like I said, I've never used zaino, I don't know much about it (other than I've heard good things). if you say you can "wax" your taillights and other plastic trim, then I believe you. is this something designed for plastic, or is it the same stuff you use for the rest of your car?

 

I scanned their website and didnt get anything. the problem is that marketing language is much different than scientifice language and a lot of "terms" are thrown around w/o context. I could beleive that zaino works differently, but saying things like "cure" and "no residue" like they do on their site doesn't tell me anything. they say there's a patent pending, maybe I can look it up sometime and find out more- I'm kinda curious now.

[blitz]

the problem is not with the wax, but the technique, that most people have a problem with. if your car isn't CLEAN, and you're not using the right applicator, then you end up sanding your car. after you apply the wax, the small gashes are filled in, giving you a smooth glassy finish. when the wax wears away, the gashes show up (swirl marks and streaks), so you apply another layer of wax to "smooth" out the swirls and fill in the streaks and it looks great again. but each time, you're effectively sanding the clear coat. Plus, some of these department store or all-in-one waxes are formulated with fine grit in it to polish the surface to remove oxidized paint to help bring out the luster.

 

My dad's 94 lexus looks great (owned since new)- it's even a dark charcoal where its easiest to see imperfections in the paint. you can beleive he's NEVER waxed the car- just runs it through a car wash from time to time.

Thanks for clarifying.

 

I'm not saying don't wax your car-

I would recomend against using wax for the average person.

Ahh... for the AVERAGE person, ...I get it.

[swc7916]

if you say you can "wax" your taillights and other plastic trim, then I believe you. is this something designed for plastic, or is it the same stuff you use for the rest of your car?

 

I use Zaino Z-2 for clear-coat finishes on the entire car including the plastic and windshield.

 

A note on preparation: The Zaino site recommends first thoroughly washing the car with Dawn to remove all waxes and oils from the finish. Then clay bar the finish using either soapy water or their Z-6 gloss enhancer as a lubricant. Dry the car to remove all water spots (mineral deposits) before applying the Z-2 (be sure to use ZFX.) 2 ounces will cover the car. Subsequent coats will use less.

 

This stuff is great. It lasts longer than conventional waxes and if you keep you car clean you won't have to through the whole washing/clarbar process again. Just apply a coat of Z-2 every month or two and the car will stay slick and shiny.

 

I don't sell Zaino products or have any financial interest in the company. I only know that I was tired of using conventional waxes and having them leave white residue in the crevasses or hardening so much that it was impossible to buff off.

[rizzo]

the problem is not with the wax, but the technique, that most people have a problem with. if your car isn't CLEAN, and you're not using the right applicator, then you end up sanding your car. after you apply the wax, the small gashes are filled in, giving you a smooth glassy finish. when the wax wears away, the gashes show up (swirl marks and streaks), so you apply another layer of wax to "smooth" out the swirls and fill in the streaks and it looks great again. but each time, you're effectively sanding the clear coat. Plus, some of these department store or all-in-one waxes are formulated with fine grit in it to polish the surface to remove oxidized paint to help bring out the luster.

 

My dad's 94 lexus looks great (owned since new)- it's even a dark charcoal where its easiest to see imperfections in the paint. you can beleive he's NEVER waxed the car- just runs it through a car wash from time to time.

 

I'm not saying don't wax your car- if you want a good shine, you basically have to. It just seems most people get the bug to "clean" their car, buy some wax or protectant, and do more damage than if they had just left it alone. my wife had a black car she once bought used. we HAD to wax that car regularly because the previous owner did a crappy job of waxing it. I don't care what the manufactures say, once the swirl marks are in the finish, the average car owner wont get them out without a LOT of effort most people aren't willing to go through.

 

so, let's say we want a nice shiny car and want to wax it... what wax do you recommend (that's not $15 for a small bottle) and what do you recommend one uses to apply it (i usually use an old sock to apply and an old tshirt to buff it off). i have to say, i do like the idea of the black turtle wax... i've had that same problem with black plastic parts and crevasses getting wax stuck in them that's visible and doesn't look good, but i am open to other recommendations.

 

also... i got my car used and it had a couple scratches i want to try to cover or make look better. do you have any recommendations for polishing compound to try to buff them out a bit?

 

EDIT: i do know the swirl and it doesn't bother me as much as seeing a dull color. i'm sure my car has it (i'd be able to tell more if it'd stop raining and the sun will shine for even 10 minutes). anyone know anything about zymol? it's also pretty pricey, but i've heard good things about it years ago, not sure if there's something cheaper that's just as good...

[bjwirth]

(i usually use an old sock to apply and an old tshirt to buff it off). i have to say, i do like the idea of the black turtle wax... i've had that same problem with black plastic parts and crevasses getting wax stuck in them that's visible and doesn't look good, but i am open to other recommendations.

 

I haven't waxed/polished a car in years (I just buy silver cars now, they look clean all the time!!! ) I've heard good things about mothers, meguires, zaino, zymol- I'm sure turtle wax is fine too. I think most of these brands have a fine grit polish (not the course grit) you can use to alleviate the swirl marks. I like the brands that aren't all-in-one (ie a wax-on-wax-off. I want, polish on-polish-off, wax-on-wax-off- so next time you can skip the polish step)

 

Instead of using a sock, try a foam pad, and a terri cloth towel to buff out the wax. but most imprortantly, the car has to be CLEAN- anyplace your pad or towel will touch has to be clean or you just carry the dirt around. I used to wash the car after it rained, because the rain would reduce the amount of particulates in the air (pollen settling on the car etc).

 

as far as the rubber trim, you can use those "back to black" products out there to get rid of the white streaks, or try the zaino as SWC suggests.

[rizzo]

I haven't waxed/polished a car in years (I just buy silver cars now, they look clean all the time!!! ) I've heard good things about mothers, meguires, zaino, zymol- I'm sure turtle wax is fine too. I think most of these brands have a fine grit polish (not the course grit) you can use to alleviate the swirl marks. I like the brands that aren't all-in-one (ie a wax-on-wax-off. I want, polish on-polish-off, wax-on-wax-off- so next time you can skip the polish step)

 

i generally don't use the all-in-one stuff, but once i polish it once, i won't need to again? do all those brands make a polish that will help hide some of the scratches? my old car was silver, looked great after a rain. didn't have such luck trying to find what i wanted in silver this time around. it's the midnight black, a really slick color, but gets dirty easily.

 

Instead of using a sock, try a foam pad, and a terri cloth towel to buff out the wax. but most imprortantly, the car has to be CLEAN- anyplace your pad or towel will touch has to be clean or you just carry the dirt around. I used to wash the car after it rained, because the rain would reduce the amount of particulates in the air (pollen settling on the car etc).

 

i never wax without washing and i always wax right after washing. i knew that much. i'll have to find a foam pad, i imagine they sell something in stores to use for waxing?

 

as far as the rubber trim, you can use those "back to black" products out there to get rid of the white streaks, or try the zaino as SWC suggests.

 

i never heard of the back to black things. i'll have to look around. what's your opinion on armor all? i usually use that on the black plastic parts and tires to make them look good. does that do more damage than good?

[KStretch55]

Most of you obviously weren't around BC (Before Clearcoat). LOL

[rizzo]

Most of you obviously weren't around BC (Before Clearcoat). LOL

 

when did clearcoat become standard? i had an 88 VW cabriolet that had a dull red color when i got it. i polished it up before i waxed it and the color came right back to bright and beautiful. i'm guessing that was a BC car...

[KStretch55]

Someone correct me if I'm incorrect, but seems to me Clearcoat was an option on some cars in the mid - late 80s. But, it was spendy and whatever they used then didn't really last very long. In the 90s it became more popular and more durable. By the late 90s it was standard on almost everything, though a lot of dealers didn't tell you that and would charge you extra for the Clearcoat "option". Kind of like the old undercoat scam they used to charge extra for that "option" that was already there, too. In most cases if they did add some it did more damage than help by trapping dirt and salt that had collected in transit.

 

Before Clearcoat, waxing was necessary to remove the oxidized surface paint, give it that nice shine and a protective surface. If you didn't do it at least annually, it showed. As I understand it, the clearcoat filters out UV rays so the paint doesn't oxidize as fast and since the clearcoat isn't tinted you can't see the oxidization of it as much.

[bjwirth]

. it's the midnight black, a really slick color, but gets dirty easily.

 

I love black cars, I just hate the cleaning.

 

I have no opinion on armour all- I've never used it- I just don't care for the gloss. armour all is a love it/hate it kind of product it seems.

 

BTW, I grew up in Pawtucket, so Hi (former) neighbor.

[rizzo]

I love black cars, I just hate the cleaning.

 

I have no opinion on armour all- I've never used it- I just don't care for the gloss. armour all is a love it/hate it kind of product it seems.

 

BTW, I grew up in Pawtucket, so Hi (former) neighbor.

 

i've always used armor all. every now and then i like to "pimp" my car up and make it look nice and shiny. so i used it on the tires and the black plastic parts of my old car (89 camry wagon, far from "pimp", but it was still a good looking car when someone hit it and totalled it).

 

i just moved to providence about a year and a half ago. i love it here.

[cookie]

I wash my BMW, my Subaru, and my running Pontiac with a product that combines soap with wax. The BMW gets washed about once a week with this stuff in the summer and most folks think it is new. The subie gets washed when it's dirty.

I'm think of going to Mr. Clean auto dry.