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Summary of my Car...


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12 replies to this topic

#1 DoughtCom

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Posted 07 September 2003 - 11:00 PM

Well I finally got my exhaust manifold fixed (took us a while to weld 2 of them to make one good one). I also had trouble getting the top flange past the engine but that’s beside the point.

With all of that done on to the next stage of problems.

1.) The valve clicking is pretty bad, and it comes and goes. Not sure if it’s the oil pump, since It’s leaking oil a bit onto the exhaust manifold from where I think the pump is. Anyone know how easy it is to take it out and replace?

2.) The temp sensor is out, so I’m kind of driving it in the dark not literally speaking of course. On top of this it might be overheating. After a while of driving (I’ve only driven it back to my apt and couple of other short distance test drives) the valve clicking gets louder (I think), starts running a little rougher, and when I got home the water was up to the top in the reservoir and bubbling. Now with being said, that could be because the guy that sold it to me only put water in and no antifreeze and it’s just boiling? Not sure…

At any rate I NEED to fix that before driving it again, do you guys know where the sensor is located? I’m assuming it’s the sensor on top of the water pump, it was corroded and I got all that off and it still doesn’t read so I don’t know. I’ve seen it work ONCE since I’ve bought it.

3.) The third and final problem, at the moment. Is what I believe feels like fuel cut. Before applying my boost controller, at about 2100-2300 RPMs the engine feels like it just isn’t getting fuel for a while and you kind of have to sit on it for a second then it finally picks up. This does NOT occur all the time, but often enough to be a problem AFTER applying the boost controller, which I was only running 9-10 PSI, it would hit 10 PSI and then it would just shake forward and loose power. I’m assuming no one else has had this problem, since people were suggesting 9-10PSI as a good range before applying an Intercooler. Could it be a bad fuel pump?

So as a summary for this car... it's WAY faster then what I expected. It has no power until the boost kicks in then it takes off like a rocket, comparatively speaking. I think it'll be a fun car once I get all the problems worked out and modded to the level of what you guys have. I just want to get it running for the winter, then next summer I'll finish up the project. For 150 dollars it was well worth it.

If any of you guys have any of the parts I need for sale, let me know. The list is...
Oil Pump
Temp Sensor
Gas Pump?

Thanks again for all you guys help, may the soob keep running.

#2 calebz

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Posted 07 September 2003 - 11:25 PM

1.) The valve clicking is pretty bad, and it comes and goes. Not sure if it’s the oil pump, since It’s leaking oil a bit onto the exhaust manifold from where I think the pump is. Anyone know how easy it is to take it out and replace?



Someone else will have to get you this answer.. I understand it isn't too hard though.

2.) The temp sensor is out



Temp sensor is located on the thermostat neck. Where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine... Does your car have a digidash? Could be more than just the sensor

3.) The third and final problem, at the moment. Is what I believe feels like fuel cut....it would hit 10 PSI and then it would just shake forward and loose power.



There is a fuel cutoff/overboost protection designed into the car.
How you disable it depends on the year(maf type) of your car.


In the future, when asking specific questions, you are more likely to get correct answers if you tell us what car it is, or at least put it in your sig so we know what we are answering. I'm sure you have told us before, but there are a lot of people here, and some of our memories aren't so good.

#3 DoughtCom

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Posted 07 September 2003 - 11:30 PM

Thanks for the reply, I'm not sure if the site is malfunctioning or what, but my sig should have my car make and year.

At any rate it's a 1986 GL-10 Turbo Sedan. And yeah it does have a digidash.

As far as the fuel cutoff protection, I had read about a tube I should disconnect, just thought it was for boost over 10PSI or so. Didn't want to disconnect it, incase something was wrong and it that was the only thing keeping my engine from blowing up, hehe.

#4 biffbradford

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Posted 07 September 2003 - 11:38 PM

As far as the valve click ... a quick fix might be using 20W50 oil. Worked for my 'XT. At least until you get around to the oil pump.

John Wilke
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#5 calebz

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Posted 07 September 2003 - 11:38 PM

Ooops.. Silly me.. either the sig wasn't there, or I didn't see it.. I probably didn't see it

The fuel cutoff I believe is supposed to come on when you go over 9 psi.. If you want more boost than that, you have to pull that hose.


And as far as your Temp guage goes.. you have old style digidash.. it is probably not the sending unit that is at fualt.. more likely the digidash.. common problem.. the solder in back gets all crusty

#6 DoughtCom

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Posted 07 September 2003 - 11:47 PM

No prob about the post, and thanks for the reply.

well damn, so I have to take apart the whole dash to fix it? how about getting a cheap analog guage? I was planning on doing this anyway. But I don't know where I would incorporate that into the cooling system.

#7 calebz

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Posted 07 September 2003 - 11:55 PM

Analog guage seems to be the way to go.. I am going to do this as well.. I don't trust my digiguage.. I have heard that the cheapo walmart guage has the right adapter to plug right in to where the original sending unit goes.. right under the t-stat

#8 GeneralDisorder

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Posted 08 September 2003 - 12:37 AM

The later model digidash's are supposed to be better - 87, I should think it might actually be the sensor. At least check anyway - it's easy to do.

And replace that oil pump - heavier oil is good too, but to get rid of that click (and to keep from chewing your engine up), put in a new oil pump. Not that hard - and their about $60 or so.

GD

#9 Dennis ex24

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Posted 08 September 2003 - 08:42 AM

time to replace the oil pump...others will tell you to replace seals or o-rings but i think youd rather just go to autozone and buy a new pump for $80 and be done with it. every single lifter clacking EA82 subaru ive worked was fixed after a new oil pump was installed...

on this messageboard youll hear alot of "i use brand X oil and filters and my car gained 65hp and gets 10 more MPG"...save yourself the headache and go with GTX and purolator. i go with 20w50 just about all year round in my EA82Ts, even when its colder i wont go any lighter then 15w40

use castrol and purolator, seems to satisfy these engines

get all of that water out of the cooling system and refill with a 50/50 mix and see what she does. if you want to get crazy put an aftermarket H20 temp gauge inside the car instead of trying to rely on the digidash. i have one in my XT, it reads about 200 under normal conditions

#10 MorganM

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Posted 08 September 2003 - 10:34 AM

Glad to hear you got that exhuast manifold on and can finally make some boost.

1) How bad are/old are the oil, oil filter and air filter? I had a noise lifter from a "lack of proper air filtration" :D After an Italian tune up with SeaFoam and a few oil changes she was back to normal and have not heard them click since. It could be the seals on the pump, the pump itself or that other funny little seal (isnt it located under the cam on the cyl. head?) Anyhow what I'm trying to say is start easy and work your way up. No need to buy an $80 if its clicking from a lack of proper maitanace by the previous owner.

2) I have an EA82T temp sending unit that sits ontop of your thermostat. We could try that out and see if it fixes your digi-guage. That would be alot easier to try before ripping apart the dash or installing a whole new guage.

Shoot me an email if you wanna get together and kick the tires. Peace

#11 DoughtCom

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Posted 08 September 2003 - 11:53 AM

Thanks for all the info guys, now I know how which directions to take, and knowing is half the battle :D As far as the oil pump, I might as well change it and all the seals, something that should be done anyway.

My friend just had a DSM he had bought, had it for 3 days and then the oil pump basically blew up and sent it's misc parts into the engine and killed it. :slobber: So now I have a phobia of older high mileage cars. I'll probably change that, put in 20w50, change the plugs, the coolant and then hopefully it'll run decent again.

As far as the temp sensor, I'll e-mail you morgan and let you know about working on it, that sounds like a great route to take.

#12 DoughtCom

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Posted 09 September 2003 - 08:06 PM

Got another question, does the temp sensor that has a wire coming out of it, control the 2nd fan?? I never hear this come on and or see it come on and common sense tells me that's what would control it. So I'm wondering if this could cause the engine to overheat.

I haven't had much time to work on it yet, I bought a temp gauge for it for 19 dollars at Checkers Autoparts but haven't put it in. I also felt the return hose (the top one) and it has hot water inside it so I know the thermistat is probably working.

If the DC Fan not spinning is the cause could I hook it up to one of the higher amp fuses and solve the problem right there?

On another note I changed the oil to 20w50 and the valve clicking went away :D I still want to do the maintenance on it though. And also when I drive it for 10 minutes or so (the rough) feeling I stated in my first post is associated with VERY loud valve ticking which I'm assuming is caused by overheating. When I turn it off it sounds like water is boiling inside the engine!?!? :eek:

#13 DoughtCom

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Posted 10 September 2003 - 12:49 AM

Also if anyone could reply as to what size the temp sensor is, that would be cool. I believe the one I bought has an M16 adapter.




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