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The AA lift.....PICS


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80 replies to this topic

#1 Numbchux

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Posted 25 May 2005 - 08:17 PM

OK, as many of you may remember, I was the first to purchase an AA lift with the intention of installing it myself (though they have installed it on a few cars themselves). and ever since last summer the plan was to take the 5-speed D/R drivetrain out from my rust-bucket '85, and put it under my '92 florida car, remedying (is that a word) it's 2 faults, 3AT and FWD, AND lift it in the process.....well......

about 2 weeks ago, my dad's boss informed him that her daughter would be selling her "old subaru." My dad quickly inquired for more information, finding out it was a 5-speed, D/R, '88 GL Wagon, 220k mile, worn out shocks, bad brakes, PNW "rusted out pile," but only $150. My dad wrote her a check, without ever seeing it....GOOD MAN!!!! so last week his boss and her daughter dropped the car off at a park-and-ride about midway between our houses, and the next morning my mom dropped me off there to pick it up and bring it home. Got in it, started it right up, drove for a few miles, almost to the freeway enterence ramp, when it died.....nothing, coasting along, all of a sudden no power, pushed in the clutch and the tach slammed to 0 (but more on that in it's own thread). got AAA to tow it home (on a flatbed no less!)

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got it in the garage, and found it to be, BY FAR, the best condition suby we now own! and started lifting it immediately.

Pic of the kit, with only one front strut block, and both (old and new) steering shafts

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got the front going, found that, although the AA lift is designed to use the stock skidplate, it does help to unbolt the bottom of it, to allow for more movement while installing (although I experienced a bit too much), and the stock scissors jack came in very handy in getting the crossmembers lined up.

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had some trouble getting the old bolts for the engine cradle out....but that's what they make the cutting wheel for those dememls for anyway right???

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but finally got the front done (ended up using some ratcheting tie-downs to help pull things back in line.....

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then on to the back...had much less trouble here, though these are the stock, non-adjustables, which will be replaced with my adjustables off the '85 once this one's driveable, along with rear discs, lights, etc.

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check this clearance! on stock tires!!!

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mmm....all done!

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OK, questions.....shift linkage is messed up, though it sounds like they have some shorter blocks for the tranny crossmember that should fix that, I bet I'll have to bend things some. I've got the console out, and it won't go in 2, 4, R or FWD....if I bend the linkage up (^ instead of -) that should fix the angle....right?

I've got some crazy camber stuff going on, this is normal right?


Long story short...I love this lift, it looks GREAT, very solid, can't wait to get it out in the mud!

#2 singletrack

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Posted 25 May 2005 - 08:27 PM

SWEET! The AA stuff looks good. Much better than the pile of unfinished aluminum that comprised my lift.

I'm rather partial to the 88, ya know. :brow:


So, you got the all the center plastic out and it still won't shift? Is the boot on the lever still? That's what was happening with mine at first, elasticity in the boot was pulling it out of gear, or getting pinched between the lever and console and preventing it from shifting at all.

#3 Numbchux

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Posted 25 May 2005 - 08:30 PM

I'm rather partial to the 88, ya know. :brow:


oh, I know, and hopefully by the end of the summer (if I can find the money), it'll have a big hole in the roof too!

#4 WoodsWagon

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Posted 25 May 2005 - 08:36 PM

The engine crossmember spacers only use the 2 origional bolts? There is a hole in the unibody for a third larger bolt that I would think is good for adding extra strength. The further you block something away from its origional location, the more breaking leverage everything has.

Nice score with the car, and good job lifting it. Have you fixed the engine yet?

#5 singletrack

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Posted 25 May 2005 - 08:37 PM

hopefully by the end of the summer it'll have a big hole in the roof too!

Minny-soatin Safari Style! I like it. Get 'er done!

Wait till you get to drive it in deep snow. You won't be crashing this one in the driveway. :lol: Do you have tires lined up yet?

#6 sparkster58

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Posted 25 May 2005 - 08:41 PM

what kind of wheels/tires you putting on her???

looks great
spark

#7 Ratty2Austin

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Posted 25 May 2005 - 10:07 PM

oh, I know, and hopefully by the end of the summer (if I can find the money), it'll have a big hole in the roof too!



wont that get kinda cold in the winter in your neighborhood? :drunk:

#8 Numbchux

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Posted 25 May 2005 - 11:05 PM

wont that get kinda cold in the winter in your neighborhood? :drunk:


Well, the ragtop design that singletrack has uses a frame that could easily be modified to bolt something in there more substantial.....i.e. plexiglass!

as for wheels/tires, I've got a set of 5 15" pug alloys, and will be putting on some liberator a/t's in a couple weeks...yea cheap wal-mart tires!!!!


Any ideas for the shift linkage?

#9 Shadyirishmen

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Posted 26 May 2005 - 12:02 AM

Hey I noticed you said you have some crazy camber issues? Did you make sure to put the right upper strut extension on the corresponding side! Each one has the mark on the top which relates to the side it is supposed to go on. Each side is inset to help keep the camber true. We haven't perfected the camber 100% on the front and we are having our lazer cutter set slots in our new ones with corresponding marks to make them adjustable so they can be 100% perfected. Don't worry Chux you'll be getting a set in the mail when they are made and perfected. Good job installing the lift :)

JM Allied Armament


Well, the ragtop design that singletrack has uses a frame that could easily be modified to bolt something in there more substantial.....i.e. plexiglass!

as for wheels/tires, I've got a set of 5 15" pug alloys, and will be putting on some liberator a/t's in a couple weeks...yea cheap wal-mart tires!!!!


Any ideas for the shift linkage?



#10 BeefaRu

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Posted 26 May 2005 - 12:41 AM

What about the rear diff? Doesn't that get lowered to help axle angles?

#11 Ratty2Austin

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Posted 26 May 2005 - 02:27 AM

those axle angles dont look too bad to me, besides, EA rear axles are dual-DOJ action! more flex ability! my impreza's rears are more angled than that!

take a look at my pics and see what i mean (well, when i get a shot of the diff)

#12 Shadyirishmen

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Posted 26 May 2005 - 03:56 AM

No..... Those are grade 8 bolts and they are longer than the stock. The stock would never fit (there not long enough). Adding the third larger bolt is overkill, we jumped up the hill on the website about a hundred times, raced around 5/8ths mile horsetrack/racetrack, and have done miles upon miles of offroading and they never ever came close to giving or even showing signs of failure. We did all of that originally without reinforcing the inside of the box tube with tubes inside :rolleyes: .

The engine crossmember spacers only use the 2 origional bolts? There is a hole in the unibody for a third larger bolt that I would think is good for adding extra strength. The further you block something away from its origional location, the more breaking leverage everything has.

Nice score with the car, and good job lifting it. Have you fixed the engine yet?



#13 Ross

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Posted 26 May 2005 - 04:46 AM

Arn't those rear wheels sitting a long way forward?

#14 BeefaRu

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Posted 26 May 2005 - 09:24 AM

Arn't those rear wheels sitting a long way forward?

I noticed that too, but have no clue how lifters address that. That forward movement in a body style that doesn't allow room for chopping is one of the concerns I had when originally deciding my lift height. --E

#15 VaporTrail

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Posted 26 May 2005 - 10:34 AM

Arn't those rear wheels sitting a long way forward?


the soobie rear suspension cycles in an arc, so when you only use a suspension lift, it swings in that arc, and get's closer to the front of the wheel well. If you put lift blocks at the trailing arm tube mounts, then it corrects this, but you lose a bit of clearance under the tube...

#16 Shadyirishmen

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Posted 26 May 2005 - 10:43 AM

...........Correct..........
The wheel does get brought closer to the front of the wheel well. If you want to run some real oversize tires you'll have to do some choppin, but in the end you have near hummer clearance. :brow: Its a $1000 dollar car with more clearance and offroad capablility than a chevy, ford, dodge, maybee jeep (they have super small wheel base) with a lift and 36" inch tires. We haven't put any pictures up yet but we make the extensions in 2.5 and 3" with 2 inches of adjustment, so its all adjustable and the tires do not get brought as close to the vehicle (for those that want more of a stock look).

the soobie rear suspension cycles in an arc, so when you only use a suspension lift, it swings in that arc, and get's closer to the front of the wheel well.



#17 BeefaRu

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Posted 26 May 2005 - 11:08 AM

the soobie rear suspension cycles in an arc, so when you only use a suspension lift, it swings in that arc, and get's closer to the front of the wheel well. If you put lift blocks at the trailing arm tube mounts, then it corrects this, but you lose a bit of clearance under the tube...

So THATS how it works.

My rear was lifted like that, and combined with some suspension lift.

http://www.solo-act....s/pages/07.html

http://www.solo-act....s/pages/04.html

http://www.solo-act....s/pages/06.html
--E

#18 Shadyirishmen

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Posted 26 May 2005 - 12:27 PM

Hey is that a picture of your rear mustach bar redrilled or is that someone elses?
http://www.solo-act....s/pages/10.html


So THATS how it works.

My rear was lifted like that, and combined with some suspension lift.

http://www.solo-act....s/pages/07.html

http://www.solo-act....s/pages/04.html

http://www.solo-act....s/pages/06.html
--E



#19 BeefaRu

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Posted 26 May 2005 - 12:34 PM

Hey is that a picture of your rear mustach bar redrilled or is that someone elses?
http://www.solo-act....s/pages/10.html

Yes that's mine. There's another shot showing it just after it was made and painted. --E

#20 MorganM

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Posted 26 May 2005 - 12:35 PM

Glad to see you got it jacked up now Chux!

Maybe Shady could comment in more detail on the shifter linkages. I had to trim my plastic console around the shifter to shift properly but that's for a BYB lift.

You going to have it running by JUL 4th for the Crawl 4 The Cure up at Gilbert offroad park? It will be a blast!

Long live the '88 GLs! :drunk:

#21 Shadyirishmen

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Posted 26 May 2005 - 02:39 PM

We have never had any problems with the shifter linkage itself when the car is lifted. I may have a solution to his problem, (shoot I think this the problem chux) When you lowered your subframe maybe the shift protector did not get lowered or it is bent and it is rubbing against the shift linkage, causing for it not to go into gear. I would crawl under your car and look at the bottom of the shifter linkage there is a plate right below it. Our lift keeps it close to the plate but it should not be touching that plate. If its touching you might have to remove it (the car can drive without it) it adds no structural support it just adds protection for your shift linkage. Most likely it is bent (you did say a girl owned the car before you :rolleyes: ), you may have to go to a junkyard and get a new one, or we can send you one inch spacers to lower the protection plate. Check it out and throw a reply up. As for your 4x4 linkage, because the tranny spacers are fairly long 3"inches it may be rubbing against the lower part of the console there are several solutions to this problem. One you wait for us to send you 2.5" inch tranny spacers, two you remove your console, and maybee even remove the plastic that surrounds your 4x4 linkage (it comes off trust me its just a pain in the ...), three trim your consol with a dremel tool or saw, four actually bend the shift linkage (I think you would need a torch with some heat to do so.) My recommendation is to drive it first it should be able to pop in and out of four wheel drive even with the three inch spacers, and then make a decision if you want to go with 2.5 inch blocks or etc.... Fwwww that was long.



Glad to see you got it jacked up now Chux!

Maybe Shady could comment in more detail on the shifter linkages. I had to trim my plastic console around the shifter to shift properly but that's for a BYB lift.

You going to have it running by JUL 4th for the Crawl 4 The Cure up at Gilbert offroad park? It will be a blast!

Long live the '88 GLs! :drunk:



#22 Numbchux

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Posted 26 May 2005 - 08:33 PM

The gaurd is lowered (with the 3" spacers you sent me...) and NOT bent, it was owned by a girl, but the other way, it was very well taken care of. There is zero slop in the linkage, I was amazed when I drove it (while it worked anyway), the shifter is solid, didn't come even close to the console (I had to dremel out my console it was so sloppy on my '85). I've removed the console on this one, and the problem is deeper than that, though I haven't crawled back under there since I put the blocks in, and it still needs front seal on the oil pump, new water pump, and at least one timing belt (though I'll do both while I'm in there) before it'll be leaving the garage, at which point it'll get the upgraded parts that are now on the '85.

But like I said, console (whole plastic piece around both shift levers) and shift boot are removed, and it still won't go in gear. it might just be because the motor isn't running, no panic yet, once I get it running I'll try a few things before I go bending stuff, but I was just brainstorming, as I think some of the BYB lifted guys had to modify their linkage too

#23 Shadyirishmen

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Posted 27 May 2005 - 03:58 AM

Get this machine on the road. I cant wait... :headbang:

The gaurd is lowered (with the 3" spacers you sent me...) and NOT bent, it was owned by a girl, but the other way, it was very well taken care of. There is zero slop in the linkage, I was amazed when I drove it (while it worked anyway), the shifter is solid, didn't come even close to the console (I had to dremel out my console it was so sloppy on my '85). I've removed the console on this one, and the problem is deeper than that, though I haven't crawled back under there since I put the blocks in, and it still needs front seal on the oil pump, new water pump, and at least one timing belt (though I'll do both while I'm in there) before it'll be leaving the garage, at which point it'll get the upgraded parts that are now on the '85.

But like I said, console (whole plastic piece around both shift levers) and shift boot are removed, and it still won't go in gear. it might just be because the motor isn't running, no panic yet, once I get it running I'll try a few things before I go bending stuff, but I was just brainstorming, as I think some of the BYB lifted guys had to modify their linkage too



#24 Numbchux

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Posted 28 May 2005 - 01:55 AM

Get this machine on the road. I cant wait... :headbang:


I know man...neither can I, picked up all the parts today, put in the oil pump (with it's new gaskets) today, and hopefully can do the rest tomorrow, or into sunday morning.....then I can test it out next week!

#25 singletrack

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Posted 28 May 2005 - 01:40 PM

I was amazed when I drove it

Welcome to the real world. :grin:

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