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The AA lift.....PICS


Numbchux
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Well, yer gonna hack up your front fenders regardless for big tires, a little trimming in the back is well worth it to never have to worry about tearing off your rear crossmember. If you BYB lift your EA82, you will learn what a design flaw really is.

 

Still, I think that's a little suspect, but what ya gonna do? It's certainly the better of two evils.

 

Can you explain this design flaw to me?

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Can you explain this design flaw to me?

It's not a problem on EA81's, but on 82's the cross member hangs down in front of the wheels with a BYB lift. I bent mine up the very first time I took it out, and pretty much every time since. Unfortunetly I've gotten very good at fixing it.

 

One could armor it up, I know that's what a few guys have done, but that's kinda a bandaid fix, and limits the usuable wheel surface. I removed the foward lift block altogether and modifed things a bit to minimize the issue, but I get hung up nonetheless.

 

The extra diff clearance on the AA lift is nice, but I feel the real advantage is the work around of this problem.

 

Not only that, but having the x-member in the stock location, bolted directly to the body is undoubtably going to be stiffer and stronger. On an ea81, I think there's only 4 blocks (two per side) on the "tube". On an EA82 there are 10! That's weaksauce.

 

Anywho, like I said it's not a problem on EA81's, so maybe you haven't had as much firsthand experience with it...?

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It's not a problem on EA81's, but on 82's the cross member hangs down in front of the wheels with a BYB lift. I bent mine up the very first time I took it out, and pretty much every time since. Unfortunetly I've gotten very good at fixing it.

 

One could armor it up, I know that's what a few guys have done, but that's kinda a bandaid fix, and limits the usuable wheel surface. I removed the foward lift block altogether and modifed things a bit to minimize the issue, but I get hung up nonetheless.

 

The extra diff clearance on the AA lift is nice, but I feel the real advantage is the work around of this problem.

 

Not only that, but having the x-member in the stock location, bolted directly to the body is undoubtably going to be stiffer and stronger. On an ea81, I think there's only 4 blocks (two per side) on the "tube". On an EA82 there are 10! That's weaksauce.

 

Anywho, like I said it's not a problem on EA81's, so maybe you haven't had as much firsthand experience with it...?

 

I had a lifted wagon, and offroaded it quite frequently and never had any problems.

 

How fast are you going and what on earth are you hitting? :)

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I think the "problem" (this is just me thinking again, correct me if I'm wrong). The BYB lift was designed for an EA81, then retrofitted/modified to fit the EA82. the problem being that EA82's have a different design, meaning that when the crossmember's are lowered, things become unprotected. This lift was designed on/for an EA82, and takes that into account.

 

turnes out my uncle has some 27-28" All-Seasons that he had on his astro van before he sold it. 5 of them too! so he's going to sell those to me, along with a CB (I might go new, but we'll see), and old GPS (speedometer!).

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How fast are you going and what on earth are you hitting? :)

Well you see I was running over this Honda doin' 50.... j/k.

 

For me, the trouble comes whilst crawling on big rock ledges. Here's that old video clip showing exactly what I'm talking it about. The bang you hear is my x-memeber hitting the rock. You can watch the forward lift block bend, and tweak that 12x180 back about an inch on the rear x-member.... That bolt runs through the big round bushing so the bushing sorta prevents further damage. I could certainly drive out, but how many times can I bend it all back before the unibody fails?

 

Anyway, with an AA style lift, the tires would have contacted the ledge first, not the undercarriage!

 

The ledge in that clip is pretty big, but it's par for the course out here. "Taking it easy" isn't an option! :drunk:

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Well you see I was running over this Honda doin' 50.... j/k.

 

For me, the trouble comes whilst crawling on big rock ledges. Here's that old video clip showing exactly what I'm talking it about. The bang you hear is my x-memeber hitting the rock. You can watch the forward lift block bend, and tweak that 12x180 back about an inch on the rear x-member.... That bolt runs through the big round bushing so the bushing sorta prevents further damage. I could certainly drive out, but how many times can I bend it all back before the unibody fails?

 

Anyway, with an AA style lift, the tires would have contacted the ledge first, not the undercarriage!

 

The ledge in that clip is pretty big, but it's par for the course out here. "Taking it easy" isn't an option! :drunk:

 

HEHE... Guess I don't have to worry about that here. I mostly do mud. The PK lift worked just fine for that. I have never had an oportunity to go rock crawling but I can see where you are coming from.

 

I am still picky and don't like the way back wheel looks. :-P Just personal preference. Life would be boring without differences tho.

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Now, to lower the front of the diff one can use two 50mm spacers, one on either side, between the diff and the forward diff mount (where the 4 bolts go through).

Heh, I just sent Shady a pm a few days ago with this idea... I was thinking a 5x6x1 piece of aluminum between the carrier and diff. Knock out the welded carrier bolts, replace with longer ones. Coupled with 1" mustache bar blocks, the diff will sit level. One could do those three spacers at 2" to preserve some cv angle, still gain diff clearance.

 

Still as long as the diff is full, and the fill hole is abopve the pinion bearing, I really don't see how that bearing would be running dry. I haven't tried it, others have... so what do I know.

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Zapar I have deliberately stayed out of this topic. Do me a favour and let's keep it that way. I don't believe either of us would benefit from a rift developing between our communities over this issue.

 

I have shown you the respect you deserve, it's your turn to reciprocate.

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Something kinda funny. . . For all the hating the Australians have done on the AA kit, here's something kinda funny. lol

 

lol lol rofl lol. the aussie have heard about a possible issue with one of their liftkits and discuss improving it. rofl lol lol rofl.

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I hear ya with the rear main crossmember lift blocks Singletrack. I know SubaruTex has an issue with it also and came up with those skids. Here in MN up north is 90% big old iron ore rocks. Just a mater of time before I smack against a big rock and rip one side clean out of my unibody. There will be no bending back and driving on for my rig; too much rust. Once, MAYBE twice, it could happen and then it would be time for welding in some seriouse reinforcment for me. I hope to get some more skid gear on my rig before the 4th of July and then I wont have to worry as much. Then we can hit some of the other black diamond trails we skipped last April :brow:

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Check this out!

 

I brought this post back to allow constructive converstions. If it can't be maintained without the post whoring and derogatory comments it will be gone for good!

 

Period and end of conversation!

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couldn't you just overfill it a little bit?

 

 

 

Still as long as the diff is full, and the fill hole is abopve the pinion bearing, I really don't see how that bearing would be running dry. I haven't tried it, others have... so what do I know.

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It's not a problem on EA81's, but on 82's the cross member hangs down in front of the wheels with a BYB lift. I bent mine up the very first time I took it out, and pretty much every time since. Unfortunetly I've gotten very good at fixing it.

 

One could armor it up, I know that's what a few guys have done, but that's kinda a bandaid fix, and limits the usuable wheel surface. I removed the foward lift block altogether and modifed things a bit to minimize the issue, but I get hung up nonetheless.

 

The extra diff clearance on the AA lift is nice, but I feel the real advantage is the work around of this problem.

 

Not only that, but having the x-member in the stock location, bolted directly to the body is undoubtably going to be stiffer and stronger. On an ea81, I think there's only 4 blocks (two per side) on the "tube". On an EA82 there are 10! That's weaksauce.

 

Anywho, like I said it's not a problem on EA81's, so maybe you haven't had as much firsthand experience with it...?

 

a properly built skid plate is never a band aid fix. once you have one, you can slide over that stuff like its a ski on snow. i think you might be exceeding the limits of the car in general. join your front and rear lift blocks, with rails, then put plates between them.

 

id like to see that diff lowered. watching the zapar videos, those guys were breaking axles like mad, and they had normal cv angles...

 

chux, if you go on the 4th of july, we could have you and morganm do a side by side comparison of how they go over the same obsticals. on film of course =]

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when the diff is spining, there is as much oil at the top of the housing as there is at the bottom. it slings that stuff like crazy. you could run it low and everything wuld get oiled.

 

Archemitis's statement got me thinking about those "Power Punch" oil displays I used to see sitting on parts counters. Y'all know the ones? Two pieces of plexiglass or lexan with a stack of meshing nylon gears stacked up between them, with a little hand crank that got the whole thing moving inside. You could spin the gears and watch the stuff climb. Looked kinda cool. Always wondered how different regular dino 90 weight would of behaved in one of those, if different at all.

Pyro

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I love those displays. I used to just twirl and twirl the hell out of those little wheels, and of course the oil never ever failed and always made it to the top. If you think about it even the thinner oil made it to the top (although very slim amounts). Think about this we were cranking those things at max (100-300 rpms) compared to a rearend that is spinning at 1000 + RPMs.

 

 

 

Archemitis's statement got me thinking about those "Power Punch" oil displays I used to see sitting on parts counters. Y'all know the ones? Two pieces of plexiglass or lexan with a stack of meshing nylon gears stacked up between them, with a little hand crank that got the whole thing moving inside. You could spin the gears and watch the stuff climb. Looked kinda cool. Always wondered how different regular dino 90 weight would of behaved in one of those, if different at all.

Pyro

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Think about this we were cranking those things at max (100-300 rpms) compared to a rearend that is spinning at 1000 + RPMs.

 

Nore were either oils at full operating temp.

 

But the displays are fun to play with while you wait :drunk:

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