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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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I just had a crazy idea...


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11 replies to this topic

#1 TheBrian

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Posted 01 June 2005 - 08:48 PM

The crankshaft pulley doesn't strictly need to come off to replace the timing belt, does it? From the looks of this schematic, I should be able to split the plastic timing belt cover down the middle, remove the center tensioner and idler, and I'd be in.
Can anyone who's actually done a timing belt job on a 2.2L SOHC comment on whether it would be possible, whether I could still replace the oil pump seals, and whether removing the outer timing belt cover in pieces would be bad?

#2 Setright

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 12:29 AM

You can't get the oil pump off. It slides off the crankshaft, which is tricky with the pulley still on it :)

#3 svxpert

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 06:45 AM

the question i have is why? whats the big deal in taking off the crank pulley?

#4 scoobdude

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 01:29 PM

not a big deal that i know of. just need a special tool that can be rented at autozone.

Good luck
Joe

#5 BigMattyD

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 03:41 PM

I wouldn't take the timing cover apart. It is designed to keep debris out of the timing belt area and extend its life.


Also, the crankshaft pulley is not hard to remove. Even if it's stuck on like mine was, it just took a little work to get it off.

And no, you can't work on the oil pump or center oil seal without removing the pulley anyway.

To make things even easier, pull the radiator out of the car. It will give you a couple extra inches of working room, and it is very easy to remove and install.

Plus, it's probably about time to replace the radiator hoses and thermostat anyway....

I just did this project in January. I replaced the t-belt, cam and crank seals, oil pump o-ring and reseal, H2O pump and thermostat, new radiator hoses, and new accessory belts. I think it cost around 200 dollars or maybe a bit less for all the parts, and It probably took a total of 8 to 10 hours of time, because I had never done it before. Now I think I could do it in about 4 hours.

Just replacing the timing belt would only take 2 hrs. I think. It's actually pretty simple.

Matt

#6 kevinsUBARU

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 03:48 PM

Matt, had you changed stuff like that out before, or did you just dive right in? Any mechanical background that helped you out? Did you use FSM's or Chiltons/Haynes?

Kevin

#7 Sweet82

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 05:19 PM

I've heard rumor that the pulley torque specks are incorrectly set out in the FSM.

I understand the real torque specifications are way higher than those referenced in the FSM. If not torqued enough the pulley has a way of working it's way off. I have heard of several people welding the things on in order to get them to stay! :eek:

Good Luck,
Glenn

#8 TheBrian

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 05:43 PM

Thank you for all of your input.

The problem is that I'm having a hard time getting the crank pulley bolt loose. I guess I'll try to find a bigger hammer and try again. If that fails, maybe I'll use the controversial "starter method".

#9 blitz

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 06:13 PM

I've heard rumor that the pulley torque specks are incorrectly set out in the FSM.

I understand the real torque specifications are way higher than those referenced in the FSM. If not torqued enough the pulley has a way of working it's way off. I have heard of several people welding the things on in order to get them to stay! :eek:

Good Luck,
Glenn

I think they used to be spec'd at 80 ft./lbs.

My '02 manual specs it at 130 ft./lbs., that's a substantial difference.

Also use blue Loctite on nice clean threads (inside and out).

#10 blitz

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 06:18 PM

Thank you for all of your input.

The problem is that I'm having a hard time getting the crank pulley bolt loose. I guess I'll try to find a bigger hammer and try again. If that fails, maybe I'll use the controversial "starter method".

Brian, soak the front of the bolt with penetrating oil for a few days, then secure the engine by sticking a screwdriver through the opening at the rear of the bellhousing and use a 6-point impact socket & a 1/2" breaker bar w/cheater pipe to undo the bolt.

#11 hklaine

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 06:24 PM

Also use blue Loctite on nice clean threads (inside and out).


I also put anti-sieze on the inside of the pulley, outside of the shaft. This makes for less of a PiTA next time.

#12 BigMattyD

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Posted 02 June 2005 - 06:27 PM

I use the Haynes manual, but also a lot of help from this message board and an article from the Subaru endwrench website.


If it weren't for the info on this board, I probably would not have been comfortable attempting this type of repair, but I found that it wasn't as hard as I thought it would be.

P.S. To remove the crankshaft pulley bolt, in a manual transmission vehicle, put the car in gear, apply the parking brake tightly, and use a 22mm socket with a breaker bar. I did not have to put anything in the flywheel to hold it because the transmission did a good enough job holding. I guess if the bolt is too tight or the clutch is slipping, that technique may not work, but it worked well for me.

Matt




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