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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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spring lift/swap


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14 replies to this topic

#1 couvsub

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Posted 07 June 2005 - 08:25 PM

is there a way to swap in different springs to get lift or would there be camber issues/ problems? doing my reseach before i get a soob so i know what i want, but most like a ea82.
any help would be great

jim

#2 offroadsubaruguy

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Posted 08 June 2005 - 08:24 AM

if you can find the adjustable struts from an 85 or an 86 4wd wagon, you can adjust them up an inch, giving you an extra inch of clearance. i dont know about swapping out springs... but yes, if you did go too far without correcting the strut position, since there is no camber adjustment, you would run into camber problems.

#3 NoahDL88

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Posted 08 June 2005 - 10:46 AM

86-89? accord hatchback front springs will work in the rear, give you about an inch or two.

#4 MorganM

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Posted 08 June 2005 - 11:06 AM

Taller springs = more angle on CVJoints.

#5 Shadyirishmen

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Posted 08 June 2005 - 11:19 AM

Yes but just drop your mustache bar you'll alleviate some of the strain. (Hey wait a minute morgan you cant do any mods to your car until you and numbchux do a comparison). We have been looking at doing suspension lifts and we have found some pretty bad rump roast struts with 4" inches of added lift and travel... :brow:

Taller springs = more angle on CVJoints.



#6 MorganM

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Posted 08 June 2005 - 12:36 PM

Point being; just slapping in taller springs isnt the total solution for a suspension lift. Have to lower the tranny up front also to try and relieave the CVJs and DOJs.

I've made countless mods since my BYB 3" lift kit install :grin:

#7 NoahDL88

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Posted 08 June 2005 - 04:28 PM

Yes but just drop your mustache bar you'll alleviate some of the strain. (Hey wait a minute morgan you cant do any mods to your car until you and numbchux do a comparison). We have been looking at doing suspension lifts and we have found some pretty bad rump roast struts with 4" inches of added lift and travel... :brow:


Are they subie struts with extensions, cause the travel on a stock stut is the same whether its got 6 inches below the perch or 10.

#8 Shadyirishmen

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Posted 08 June 2005 - 06:22 PM

They are VW baja (aftermarket springs). We are looking at extending the swing arms also for added travel :brow:. We found an outfit that will fab them for us for a reasonable price. Can you imagine it now Vvvrrrrrroooooom jumping 8 feet in the air and landing on a cushion of air.


Are they subie struts with extensions, cause the travel on a stock stut is the same whether its got 6 inches below the perch or 10.



#9 couvsub

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Posted 08 June 2005 - 07:08 PM

i was going to get a byb lift or the AA lift, but wanted some more lift and some travle. what about the front springs if i do the honda springs? and i don't want to hear which lift is better i can make that choice on my own.

jim

#10 archemitis

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Posted 08 June 2005 - 08:00 PM

basicaly jim... you buy a lift kit if you want 4 inches of lift. you can get one more inch in the front and rear, by using the adjustable front shocks, same in the rear. lots of people have done it.

if you want more than that, you start from scratch, and make a 6 inch, with no suspension lift at all.... with the same amount of travel as your stock subaru always had =/

the more spring you put on these little things, the less up travel you get, and since its already sprung out, you run out of down travel too.

#11 Shadyirishmen

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Posted 08 June 2005 - 09:14 PM

Try to keep at least one inch of down travel. If you do that you will never have the feeling of bottoming out your suspension.



i was going to get a byb lift or the AA lift, but wanted some more lift and some travle. what about the front springs if i do the honda springs? and i don't want to hear which lift is better i can make that choice on my own.

jim



#12 Shadyirishmen

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Posted 08 June 2005 - 09:22 PM

Also I forgot to mention: Since no one has fully addressed it yet. The front camber is affected if you have adjustable struts and you turn them up its somewhere in the neighborhood of one degree to half a degree. The rear swing arm because it swings in an ark the rear camber is never affected if you lower/raise it. As mentioned before in this thread the there are no camber adjustments on a subaru so what you have is what you get.

#13 archemitis

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Posted 09 June 2005 - 12:03 AM

Also I forgot to mention: Since no one has fully addressed it yet. The front camber is affected if you have adjustable struts and you turn them up its somewhere in the neighborhood of one degree to half a degree. The rear swing arm because it swings in an ark the rear camber is never affected if you lower/raise it. As mentioned before in this thread the there are no camber adjustments on a subaru so what you have is what you get.


when you have a stock lift cranked in, all the way up, it feels like you are driving a tractor. real light crappy steering, due to the camber.

when i build my lift i made the front strut extensions compensate for this, so with no lift, i have pretty good camber, and with the lift cranked it, its just like stock.

#14 ezapar

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Posted 09 June 2005 - 11:28 AM

Try to keep at least one inch of down travel. If you do that you will never have the feeling of bottoming out your suspension.


I kinda think that more than an inch of down travel is needed for offroading. Wheels on the ground = traction. Traction = go. Go is good.

The big rock buggies have a gazillion inches of down travel. I found that when 4 wheeling, (and trust me, I've wheeled Soobs as much as anyone on the planet) that my cars did the best with the torsion bar cranked down to the bottom so the rear had as much flex as possible.

The rear swing arm because it swings in an ark the rear camber is never affected if you lower/raise it.



I've been out with plenty of lifted Soobs that had the rears looking like this: / \ and the fronts like this: \ / Your rear can indeed have bad camber.

#15 Shadyirishmen

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Posted 09 June 2005 - 01:10 PM

Your definitely right about the down travel the more the better. Wheels on the ground = traction. The main point is that some people have a problem with the suspension over extending and making a loud wunk sound, I've only heard about it, and never had it happen or felt it. The volkswagen performance shop down the road tells me the best way to get around this is to leave one inch of down travel from the max extension of the swing arm?



I kinda think that more than an inch of down travel is needed for offroading. Wheels on the ground = traction. Traction = go. Go is good.

The big rock buggies have a gazillion inches of down travel. I found that when 4 wheeling, (and trust me, I've wheeled Soobs as much as anyone on the planet) that my cars did the best with the torsion bar cranked down to the bottom so the rear had as much flex as possible.


I've been out with plenty of lifted Soobs that had the rears looking like this: / \ and the fronts like this: \ / Your rear can indeed have bad camber.






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