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need some tips, replacing a broken timing belt


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9 replies to this topic

#1 Mandelbrot5

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Posted 08 June 2005 - 12:20 AM

I'm a novice at best when it comes to doing car repairs, and the other day I broke a timing belt on my 90 Justy. I have read the Chilton 10 times over, and think I know what to do. However, I know from experience that when I think I know what I'm doing I really don't have a clue.

The questions I have are:

1. Do I need the crankshaft pulley wrench, or can I get the pulley off without damaging it without the tool?

2. When I'm aligning the timing marks, what should I turn first, and what way should I turn it??

3. What major pitfalls should I be looking out for? Remember, engines and how the mechanics work are NOT second nature to me.

Hopefully, somebody has the time and inclination to help answer my questions.

#2 hooziewhatsit

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Posted 08 June 2005 - 01:19 AM

I'm a novice at best when it comes to doing car repairs, and the other day I broke a timing belt on my 90 Justy. I have read the Chilton 10 times over, and think I know what to do. However, I know from experience that when I think I know what I'm doing I really don't have a clue.

The questions I have are:

1. Do I need the crankshaft pulley wrench, or can I get the pulley off without damaging it without the tool?

2. When I'm aligning the timing marks, what should I turn first, and what way should I turn it??

3. What major pitfalls should I be looking out for? Remember, engines and how the mechanics work are NOT second nature to me.

Hopefully, somebody has the time and inclination to help answer my questions.


There's a good guide towards the bottom of this page. http://www.ultimates...rticle.php?a=24

Another method I've found to help remove the crank pulley is to pull a spark plug, and shove as much rope (preferably something without loose fibers) into the piston. This will effectively stop the engine and allow you to break the crank bolt loose. Then you can put the bolt back on without the pulley to get the engine into proper alignment.

good luck, and take your time. You may also want to look at replacing some of the seals in that area while you're in there, crank seal, oil seal, etc.

#3 Mandelbrot5

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Posted 10 June 2005 - 04:27 PM

Update for thoes who care.

It took me 4 hours to do, but most of that time was spent cleaning the oil that had acumulated inside the cover. Not sure yet if the oil is there because my front main is going, or the valve cover gasket leak that seams standard on a justy was the cause.

Some things I learned:

1. You don't need the wrench to get the pulley wheel off, all you need to do is get a good ratchet with a 17mm socket on it, rest the wrench on the engine mount and turn the car over. works like a charm. Don't forget to put the socket on the nut.

2. The dip stick is going to be in the way. The bolt that holds it on is longer than the clearence between the motor mount and the block, and it will leak coolent.

3. The top bolts (3 of them I think) that hold the cover on have a nut and washer on the other side that WILL fall off if you don't pay attention. Have a magnet probe.

#4 breaffyaviation

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Posted 10 June 2005 - 05:23 PM

See how easy it was.,now you'r the expert.

Jude

#5 pyromanic

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Posted 10 June 2005 - 07:28 PM

Well congratulations!! But you didn't say if it runs now???

#6 Mandelbrot5

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Posted 11 June 2005 - 12:59 AM

It actualy runs a bit better than it did before, except now it hesatates when I give it too much gas in first and second. I'm guessing that's due to the timing being off by a tooth or so. And I'm realy going out on a limb here, but I think I've got the too far advanced?

I'll find out the next dry day we have here in Seattle, as Thursday was our dry day for the week.

#7 richierich

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Posted 11 June 2005 - 01:24 AM

If you are going to be taking the timing belt back off, you need to see about replacing the crank and cam seals, if there is oil in the timing belt area, that is where it is coming from. If you just replaced the belt, it is going to get oil saturated again, and it will severely shorten the life of the timing belt. One of the leading cause of failures on GL/Loyale is oil and antifreeze contamination.

Like most people you have figured an easy way to get the front crank bolt off, but very few have told me reasonable solutions for getting the front crank bolt tightened again. Not having the bolt tighten to proper specs can cause crank shaft damage.

#8 pyromanic

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Posted 11 June 2005 - 08:48 AM

If you are going to be taking the timing belt back off, you need to see about replacing the crank and cam seals, if there is oil in the timing belt area, that is where it is coming from. If you just replaced the belt, it is going to get oil saturated again, and it will severely shorten the life of the timing belt. One of the leading cause of failures on GL/Loyale is oil and antifreeze contamination.

Like most people you have figured an easy way to get the front crank bolt off, but very few have told me reasonable solutions for getting the front crank bolt tightened again. Not having the bolt tighten to proper specs can cause crank shaft damage.


Hey Richierich, a lightbulb just went off in my head. I'm trying to understand what you said about not torqeing the front crank bolt properly can damage the crank. I've never been into one of these engines to see how the crank thrust bearing and such work. So my question is could a too loose crank cause the crank to have end play? If I take a pry bar to the flywheel, you can see the crank pully slide forward a few thousandths. And the motor "clacks", or knocks a bit. So does the pully bolt hold the crank tight in the bearings?

I'm not doing a good job of posing my question, sorry. I'l go out and try to re-torque it this morning. That would be great if my clacking goes away. Been stressing over this for a month.

End hijack, sorry
Pyro

#9 calebz

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Posted 11 June 2005 - 09:23 AM

Hey Richierich, a lightbulb just went off in my head. I'm trying to understand what you said about not torqeing the front crank bolt properly can damage the crank. I've never been into one of these engines to see how the crank thrust bearing and such work. So my question is could a too loose crank cause the crank to have end play? If I take a pry bar to the flywheel, you can see the crank pully slide forward a few thousandths. And the motor "clacks", or knocks a bit. So does the pully bolt hold the crank tight in the bearings?

I'm not doing a good job of posing my question, sorry. I'l go out and try to re-torque it this morning. That would be great if my clacking goes away. Been stressing over this for a month.

End hijack, sorry
Pyro



You have a bit of crank walk.. Not terribly common from what I have seen on the EA motors, but it does happen.. I have an EA82T block in the garage that ran with some pretty massive crank walk for quite a while.

I don't think the pulley holds thigs tight, so to speak. I think what can happen is if its not tight enough, it can cause a situation where things are off balance and vibrating, with the thrust surfaces taking the brunt of it.


Thats my theory anyway:D

#10 pyromanic

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Posted 11 June 2005 - 09:38 AM

You have a bit of crank walk.. Not terribly common from what I have seen on the EA motors, but it does happen.. I have an EA82T block in the garage that ran with some pretty massive crank walk for quite a while.

I don't think the pulley holds thigs tight, so to speak. I think what can happen is if its not tight enough, it can cause a situation where things are off balance and vibrating, with the thrust surfaces taking the brunt of it.


Thats my theory anyway:D


Thanks. Wonder how long it will run like this. Compression is great. Sure wish there was an easy fix.

Pyro




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