rbregn Posted June 15, 2005 Share Posted June 15, 2005 Ok, here's the deal. I always heard Subarus run for ever, and my daughters car just died, so I bought a 1992 legacy wagon with 235000 miles on it. It runs like a swiss watch and is in all around good to great shape. The only thing I can find wrong with it is oil appearing to be leaking from the timing belt covers. So my questions are in no special order! What is a good book for a service manual? Are seals a big deal to change or do I have a different problem? If a timing belt breaks am I going to take out the valves or worse? Or is there enough valve clearance with the pistons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ANDYGREEN Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 IF ITS A 2.2 LITRE IT IS A NON INTERFERENCE ENGINE... CRANK AND CAM SEALS SHOULD HAVE BEEN DONE LAST TIME TIMING BELT WAS DONE (EVERY 100000) OIL IS PROBABLY COMING FROM CAM OR CRANK SEAL....NOT TOO HARD TO DO Ok, here's the deal. I always heard Subarus run for ever, and my daughters car just died, so I bought a 1992 legacy wagon with 235000 miles on it. It runs like a swiss watch and is in all around good to great shape. The only thing I can find wrong with it is oil appearing to be leaking from the timing belt covers. So my questions are in no special order! What is a good book for a service manual? Are seals a big deal to change or do I have a different problem? If a timing belt breaks am I going to take out the valves or worse? Or is there enough valve clearance with the pistons? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheBigJ Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 If you are getting in there to replace the seals, be sure to replace the o-ring in the oil pump and re-seal that. I have found it's easier to remove the oil pump with the crank seal still installed than to pry the seal out before removing the oil pump. You can do all this with the engine in the car, and you won't destroy anything if the timing belt breaks. You will just be stranded. I recommend the Haynes manual over chilton. PS the easiest way to get the crank pulley bolt off is to put a large pry bar on it and secure that against the body of the car (driver side). Then crank (but don't start) the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rbregn Posted June 16, 2005 Author Share Posted June 16, 2005 Thanks, I took the covers off and looked at the belts. They look new and I couldn't see any oil on them or leaking from the cam gears. So I am not going to worry about it to much right now. The kid goes off to school the end of August them it will be my work car and I'll fix it then. Thanks for the help!You Subaru guys are alright! Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
knijn2007 Posted June 16, 2005 Share Posted June 16, 2005 And if your DistBelt ever breaks. It's a Boxer-type engine so if you don't force it there'll be minimal damage to the engine's intestines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 Just for your viewing pleasure. Here's pics from my timing belt job http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru/images/timingbelt Also....as for a manual...this will probably be helpful http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/1992_FSM_(Engine_%26_Electrical)/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scottbaru Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 Just for your viewing pleasure. Here's pics from my timing belt jobNice, what engine is that? Are those idlers the same as on later engines? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted June 17, 2005 Share Posted June 17, 2005 that's from my 90 legacy ej22. The newer DOHC engines are not the same. I'm not sure if the SOHC 2.5's are the same or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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