Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

- - - - -

tough EGR passage/nut


  • Please log in to reply
8 replies to this topic

#1 Guest_shanonsf_*

Guest_shanonsf_*
  • Guests

Posted 30 July 2003 - 06:25 PM

hey all-

firstly, I am victorious in my Emissions War (burtal CA)!!
but they won't give it to 'cause my EGR passage is still funked up/clogged........b*=tards
disassembled via intake manifold......
i had 2 feet of spinning wire in a 8" pipe and fuel injector cleaner didn't do the trick..

my question: the nut on the head is siezed/real tight, will not budge to remove passage asmbly entirely.........any suggestions on removing this nut-
17mm socket or wrench, heat (torch it for a while),specific lube( mine did do squat), pay the shop $100 p/hr..................:rolleyes:

afraid of a nightmare breaking this stupid thing

pls help ASAP, the last thing in my almost done emissions war!!!

shanonsf
82 GLW

#2 Guest_Subrina 7_*

Guest_Subrina 7_*
  • Guests

Posted 30 July 2003 - 07:37 PM

on my Ea82 bypass pipe (one end into intake/other into head, right?) I think I remember using a flare nut wrench after popping off the tin on the tube.. then tapping w/ the ball peen. Good Luck!

#3 Guest_shanonsf_*

Guest_shanonsf_*
  • Guests

Posted 30 July 2003 - 07:52 PM

hey,

thx for the tip, its the side into the head BTW, but.....

whatsa flare nut wrench?
did ya tap the nut or the pipe?
also how deep does this nut/passage go into the head?

thx
shanonsf
82 GLW

#4 Guest_Subrina 7_*

Guest_Subrina 7_*
  • Guests

Posted 30 July 2003 - 08:05 PM

A flare nut wrench is the kind that is almost closed and damn near 6 sided but is missing a section so you can use it on....flare nuts (commonly seen in brass/copper lumbing, hydraulic lines-i.e. brakes) a cheap set will do (I think I got a 3 wrench set w/ a size at either end for about $10 at schucks/action auto)
I tapped on the wrench... some penetrant may help, careful heat might not be so bad but I did not go there.

the flare nut wrench is preferred cause it won't round out your corners on the nut

#5 Guest_x silvershad0w x_*

Guest_x silvershad0w x_*
  • Guests

Posted 30 July 2003 - 08:49 PM

These little buggers can gall up real bad in both the head and the intake manifold, but I mostly have had trouble with the head-side. Definately go and get the flare nut wrench for the job, a regular wrench, channel locks, you name it, will tear that sucker up in no time flat.

I use penetrating oil (PB Blaster), and if that doesnt work I'll resort to heat. You pretty much have to use a hot fine tip torch to do the job the easiest, and heres why- If you use good ol' propane or mapp gas even, the heating effect is much slower, and the heat has more time to pass between the head and the flare nut. By using a concentrated heat like oxy-acetelyne on the head only, it allows the head material to expand, without heating and expanding the flare nut as well. If you heat both objects at the same time, you are working against yourself.

And lastly, don't forget to put anti-sieze on it when you install it again. Same thing goes for all dissimilar metal joints, never forget, it'll make your life easier someday :)

#6 Guest_shanonsf_*

Guest_shanonsf_*
  • Guests

Posted 01 August 2003 - 06:20 PM

thx folks

that's what i thought a flare nut wrench was, i got some small ones...got some real stuck brake caliper bleeders that heat nor flare wrench have made budge. suggestions?

i'll get a flare wrench for the EGR nut.......have propane torch but no Oxy -Aceteline...........

thx & wish me luck.....

shanonsf

#7 Guest_oobnuker_*

Guest_oobnuker_*
  • Guests

Posted 01 August 2003 - 09:37 PM

If it's just the bleeders why not use a deep socket? I think it's 7mm or 8mm if they are original. But you know what I mean??? Nothing beats a socket if you can fit it over...

#8 Guest_shanonsf_*

Guest_shanonsf_*
  • Guests

Posted 01 August 2003 - 09:41 PM

I had a socket on there, but maybe more leverage could help (lonjger arm)

i'll give it a shot, just paranoid snapping one of these buggers.........

keep ya posted & thx

shanonsf

#9 Guest_oobnuker_*

Guest_oobnuker_*
  • Guests

Posted 01 August 2003 - 10:14 PM

You could also try tightening it - to break it free if it is stuck...




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users