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The saga continues
#1
Posted 10 July 2005 - 03:38 PM
#2
Posted 10 July 2005 - 04:23 PM
#3
Posted 10 July 2005 - 04:24 PM
Jrach is out of Bozeman and getting close to Billings. Car seems to be running okay but is slowly loosing water (not out the exhaust) but somewhere in the engine compartment. He's adding a quart of water about every 60 miles. I'm beginning to think he should pack it in in Billings. Crossing North Dakota to try to make it to Minneapolis seems pretty risky to me. Any Board members in Billings, MT?
What's he driving? Turbo? Hoses?
I drove out last week to Grand Forks to rescue our son's GL-10 with tranny problems. We're headed back to Oregon early Wednesday morning via I-94 to Billings, then Bozeman, then down to Idaho Falls and over to Burns via Boise. If I can be of any assistance considering that time frame, let me know. I'd be happy to take a look and offer my limited knowledge, skills, and abilities. Also have loads of tools I brought along in the event of a major overhaul....
Tell me more about the vehicle. -Rick
#4
Posted 10 July 2005 - 04:49 PM
Ed, what is the status of the radiator cap? If it is all the way down he might want to consider half-way, or even off, if the temp and altitude allows it .
#5
Posted 10 July 2005 - 05:01 PM
chef tim knows of a yard in south dakota with a hatch or two
stuntmatt has a brat for sale in detroit area 200.00
if youre gonna long block that brat do it out west where you have parts.
all i can offer is a place to stop for a while here. cant put anyone up overnight
and garage space is at a premium
if you need a hand once near let me know
#6
Posted 10 July 2005 - 06:11 PM
What's he driving? Turbo? Hoses?
I drove out last week to Grand Forks to rescue our son's GL-10 with tranny problems. We're headed back to Oregon early Wednesday morning via I-94 to Billings, then Bozeman. If I can be of any assistance considering that time frame, let me know. I'd be glad to take a look and offer my limited home mechanics knowledge, skills, and abilities. Also have loads of tools I brought along in the event of a major overhaul....
Tells me more about the rig. -Rick
#7
Posted 10 July 2005 - 06:13 PM
Brat with EA81.
Ed, what is the status of the radiator cap? If it is all the way down he might want to consider half-way, or even off, if the temp and altitude allows it .
#8
Posted 10 July 2005 - 06:14 PM
im in minnesota, and i gotta tell you theres no used ea81's to be had....
chef tim knows of a yard in south dakota with a hatch or two
stuntmatt has a brat for sale in detroit area 200.00
if youre gonna long block that brat do it out west where you have parts.
all i can offer is a place to stop for a while here. cant put anyone up overnight
and garage space is at a premium
if you need a hand once near let me know
#9
Posted 10 July 2005 - 06:20 PM
#10
Posted 10 July 2005 - 06:23 PM
#11
Posted 10 July 2005 - 06:26 PM
Good idea about the radiator cap, but maybe that's all he needs is a new one. I've had new ones go bad, because the gasket was too large a diameter - manufacturing defect. If it's going out the overflow, but the engine temp is normal, might be a bad radiator cap... just my 2 cents worth...
#12
Posted 10 July 2005 - 07:40 PM
I was actually meaning it the other way around :-p : Loosen the cap to keep pressure from building up and pushing water out of any loose connections or leaky gaskets.Good call; he hasn't noticed where the leak is and it might just be going out the over flow. I'll let him know; he's in the flat-lands now so that might just work. Thanks.---ed---
If water is rising high enough and under enough pressure to go out of the overflow and empty his radiator, then there are serious things wrong. The normal water level in that radiator should be about 2 inches below the rad cap. Water at the rad cap level when the total volume of water is low would be a bad sign.
#13
Posted 10 July 2005 - 07:43 PM
Once the engine looses enough coolant through excessive heating, there might only be vapor or mostly air below the thermostat, explaining the sudden zero temp reading. It's a long shot, but if that's the situation, he'd best stop driving and remove the thermostat - then he could resume the trip.
One indication of overheating [with a zero temp reading] would be a drop in oil pressure as the oil gets very hot and viscosity drops. Again, this is just a guess.. Later, Rick
#14
Posted 10 July 2005 - 07:53 PM
Ed, I just went out and looked under the hood of our son, Brett's, '88 GL-10 wagon. On his car the temp sensor is upstream of the thermostat. So, I'm thinking maybe, if the coolant system on your son's car is similar, he may have a stuck thermostat or one that was placed in backwards - if that's even possible...
Once the engine looses enough coolant through excessive heating, there might only be vapor or mostly air below the thermostat, explaining the sudden zero temp reading. It's a long shot, but if that's the situation, he'd best stop driving and remove the thermostat - then he could resume the trip.
One indication of overheating [with a zero temp reading] would be a drop in oil pressure as the oil gets very hot and viscosity drops. Again, this is just a guess.. Later, Rick
#15
Posted 10 July 2005 - 07:58 PM
If he's still having problems when he wits northern Wisconsin, I have a brother who lives in Wausau. He'd put him up and he also has garage space if needed.
#16
Posted 10 July 2005 - 08:20 PM
Ed,
If he's still having problems when he wits northern Wisconsin, I have a brother who lives in Wausau. He'd put him up and he also has garage space if needed.
#17
Posted 10 July 2005 - 08:23 PM
The normal water level in that radiator should be about 2 inches below the rad cap.
#18
Posted 10 July 2005 - 08:34 PM
See you can teach an old dog new tricks. I was always under the impression to fill to the base of the neck of the radiator. What you're suggesting leaves room for expansion of the water as the temp increases to operating temp. He's likely doing what I've incorrectly suggested to him and overfilling it.
Subaru even placed a sticker on the radiator noting that you only fill the radiator to a certain point. The OE and some of the better replacement radiators even have a tab in the tank as a fill too (when cold) mark. I can get a pic if you want one ED
#19
Posted 10 July 2005 - 09:04 PM
#20
Posted 10 July 2005 - 09:48 PM
No big deal; a healthy system will reach equilibrium by pushing excess coolant out the overflow. I guess it could confuse the unknowing by looking like it is dumping coolant and the level dropping. Doesn't harm the cooling system, though. Newer systems do the same thing, just into an expansion tank.See you can teach an old dog new tricks. I was always under the impression to fill to the base of the neck of the radiator. What you're suggesting leaves room for expansion of the water as the temp increases to operating temp. He's likely doing what I've incorrectly suggested to him and overfilling it.
#21
Posted 10 July 2005 - 10:56 PM
#22
Posted 10 July 2005 - 11:19 PM
262-325-0346
#23
Posted 10 July 2005 - 11:35 PM
if he comes thru milwaukee have him stop by, if the car needs a fix i have tools and we can take a look at it. suppose the water pump leaks out the weephole? i had a re-man one that leaks so i shoved jb welsd in the weephole. anyway i have a spare water pump should it be needed, im only blocks off the highway
262-325-0346
#24
Posted 11 July 2005 - 07:55 AM
#25
Posted 11 July 2005 - 11:52 PM
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