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#1 legacywarwagon

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Posted 11 July 2005 - 04:19 PM

Hi again everybody, this is my first real question post, so i hope i do everything right and give proper information. This is Probably a dumb question, but i'm just starting to try my hand at the whole do it myself aspect of cars.
SO....i've got a 92 L legacy wagon (awd, 5 sp M, ) and i'm getting ready to replace the brakes on the front. However, recently, i've been getting this HORRENDOUS noise (similar to very squeaky brakes but a definite grinding) when i make right turns. It starts and continues from my right rear wheel until i straighten the wheels out or get up above about 35 mph. Kind of weird. And i've noticed that when my "husky" girlfriend (extremely beautiful and the best damn cook around) sits in the passenger seat, the noise doesnt happen. Again, only when i make right hand turns, and it continues until the wheels go straight. Took off the tire to examine the pads, they seem to have plenty of wear left, and there doesnt seem to be anything hanging loosely. VERY DUSTY, as it was purchased from my grandmother who lived up near estes and drove on dirt roads all the time. Question 1, is there a proper way to clean the entire area, and question 2, does this sound like a bearing problem? Will replace both front and rear discs here on friday (Its gonna be a scary thing :-\ :-\ ) but i'm gonna try it. First time doing breaks...YIKES.

One more thing. Recently, i had to replace my front left axle (cv halfshaft) and it was QUITE the experience. I don't have a nice set of jacks unfortunately, so space under the car was limited. The last shop who had replaced the shaft had somehow gotten the pin nearest the inner boot JAMMED VERY TIGHTLY IN THERE, and i was having a helluva time getting it out. Im a fairly "husky" guy myself, and so here i am, crammed awkwardly under my car(in 90 degree sweltering heat) banging away with hammer and screwdriver, getting very angry. (patience is something i'm working on) After i KID YOU NOT two HOURS of pounding, i finally got that frustrated addrenaline boost and began BEATING THE SCREDRIVER (not smart i know). WELL...i should also tell you that my accuracy witha hammer is rivaled only by my ability to leap tall buildings in a single bound, and i missed... NAILING one of the bolts on my transmission. :banghead: KABOOOOM, explosion of bolt and nearby tranny. With the bolt came about a half inch of the bung surroundingit, as well as a spring and ball(not quite sure what these are for) FORTUNATELY, i was able to get the entire bolt assembly back in about 4 turns, and jbwelded the whole thing. I know, I know, i'm really not a mechanic. But hey, it was DEFINITELY worth learning a little lesson regarding patience.

So, any help with the brakes would be greatly appreciated, as i am a complete and utter noobie when it comes to soobie mechanics. THANK YOU ALL VERY MUCH

sorry this is such a long post, but i hope you all can at least laugh with me (or at me) and my continuing mechanical endeavors.

Cory

Denver

#2 blitz

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Posted 11 July 2005 - 09:33 PM

Question 1, is there a proper way to clean the entire area, and question 2, does this sound like a bearing problem?

I clean the brake dust by holding my breath while I brush the dust off. I'm fairly certain that brakes don't contain any asbestos anymore, but whatever it DOES contain can't be good to breath in. Another (and better) way to clean the brake hardware is to use brake cleaner spray.

I wont be able to help you any on the noise problem.

Do the fronts first, then put all back together the same way it came apart and take it for a test drive on a sidestreet to verify that you did the job correctly. Then move on to the rears.

#3 Andyjo

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Posted 11 July 2005 - 11:41 PM

The noise sounds like a CV issue.. which you said you had just swapped out... perhaps it would be in wroing? :confused:
A grinding noise came from my breaks when i wore them down to nothing....
Maybe you could clean out your brakes w/ an air compressor... that's how i usually clean my stuff...

I feel your pain about not being able to get stuff to work. I spend 2 hours trying to hook up the hydrolic lines for the steering rack.. so freaking tight in there!

#4 soobmater

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Posted 11 July 2005 - 11:52 PM

brake cleaner does wonders. i know what you mean about not much patients. (thats why i try not to use hammers any more)Posted Image some how it always seems to dent, brake or destoy something.it could be a cv noise.

#5 hooziewhatsit

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Posted 12 July 2005 - 12:25 AM

I'm not sure about the new gen cars, but I know the old gen's are very picky if you don't tighten down the axle nut properly (old gen: 145ish ft/lbs)

That could cause your horrific grinding noise.

#6 grossgary

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Posted 12 July 2005 - 01:59 AM

i'd check into that bolt you jb welded on there. what is that bolt for? don't want to mess with the trans.

#7 Setright

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Posted 12 July 2005 - 07:52 AM

Please get a picture of the hammered bolt. It would help us decide if you have damaged something vital.

Can you find someone who has worked on brakes before to assist you? The construction is pretty simple - and therefore reliable! - but there a few things to be aware of. In particular, you must use a torque wrench to tighten the caliper support bracket bolts. Too loose and the brakes will be very erratic and rattle. Too tight and the bolts might snap suddenly and leave you with NO brakes.

At least get a Haynes manual for the car, it'll steer you clear of the big mistakes.

#8 legacywarwagon

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Posted 12 July 2005 - 09:33 AM

WOW - it's really nice to have experienced people giving me advice. THANK YOU ALL SO VERY MUCH. After work yesterday, I had the opportunity to have a friend of mine come take a look at it. After about 3 minutes of brake cleaner and an air compressor, i managed to dislodge a DISTURBINGLY LARGE amount of dirt......i guess that stuff they spray on mountain roads can really get caked on. Needless to say, after much cleaning, and a quick test drive, problem solved YAY:grin: !! I am buying another can to do the rest of the brakes with today, as i figured it would probably be beneficial to get it all done now. Friday is still the big day (first brake job) but with everybody's tips (and i have a friend at spider customs who's gonna let me use some jacks ) and some luck, I should be squeak free in a couple of hours!!!

As far as the tranny goes, i'm working on getting some pictures for yall, i just don't think my camera phone's gonna do it justice. If it helps, the bolt is on the "bell?" part of the transmission, driver's side, and it has a ball and spring assembly that fit inside of it. My buddy says his friend had an old CJ that the same thing happened to (busted off on a rock, not with a hammer :brow: ), and he lost shifting ability. SO....hoping the jb weld will hold. No problems as of yet, no loss of extra fluid, and shifting seems fine. but i WILL try and get some pictures...

THANX AGAIN EVERYBODY.....wish me luck on Friday, i'll post monday to let yall know how the brakes went.

cory aka the impatient hammer-wielding non mechanic

#9 legacywarwagon

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Posted 12 July 2005 - 09:35 AM

oh and by the way, haynes manual forthcoming and i will get a torque wrench.


and can i reuse the shims that are on there?

#10 Setright

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Posted 12 July 2005 - 11:12 AM

Sure, but I would suggest only re-using the black shims. These have a soft coating that will absorb vibes and keep the brakes quiet.

Tips that come to mind: Get a big g-clamp and compress the caliper BEFORE you undo anything. This keeps the brake piston moving straight, as it is still controlled by the caliper slide pins. You might need to compress it some more when installing both new pads and discs (not much room!) and therefore run the last stretch straight on the piston, but starting this way helps.

Oh, and you might have been knocking the CV lock pin from the wrong side. It's conical. They have a small mark (triangle?) to indicate that's the side to hit.

#11 legacywarwagon

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Posted 12 July 2005 - 11:50 AM

wow, i am so glad this is all being told to me now...i'm gonna print this stuff out and keep it next to me as i go along. thanx again


BTW, the mechanic i ended up taking the axle to (very short drive with the tip of the screwdriver protruding from one end of the lock pin) told me that in all his years of wrenching, he had never come across a pin that hard to remove (thankfully i'm not as stupid as i thought). He had told me that the LAST person who had replaced it had somehow put it in wrong. I really didn't ask for a huge explanation, but was just really happy he showed me proper ways for installation for next time. It's always nice to have a mechanic that is more interested in your car's well being than your wallet.

thanx again setright, and pics will be on the way for that trannybolt.

#12 tomson1355

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Posted 12 July 2005 - 01:47 PM

Cory,
Can't help you with your car. Setright will set you right on that.

But, men are "husky". Women are "curvaceous".

Sorry if I'm off-topic or inappropriate. Gotta help where I can.

Tom

#13 legacywarwagon

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Posted 12 July 2005 - 04:27 PM

LOL good call :)




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