Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!
|Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.
We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!
Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!
Tips for XT xmission replacement?
Posted 15 September 2003 - 07:08 PM
I've never pulled an xmission before. I've done the half shafts, timing belts, radiator, air to coil suspension swap, and now it's time to try something harder.
I've got the new transmission being shipped now, still need to find a new drive shaft, so I've got some time to prepare. Surely I'll replace the clutch, and I guess the exhaust has to come off, so might be a good time to replace that mashed downpipe if I can. Anything else while I'm in there? Tips on getting it in/out? This will be done in the garage, so I guess the ticket is to support the frame on some sturdy blocks.
Posted 15 September 2003 - 07:35 PM
Posted 16 September 2003 - 10:22 AM
remove the turbo shroud and unbolt the downpipe from the back of the motor, the side of the tranny, and the rear of the tranny, and from the rest of the exhaust.
if you have i ahoist you can pull the motor out first, do seals and belts or whatever, and lower the tranny into the car from under the hood......
drop the tranny with its crossmember, just unbolt the crossmember from the car, still attatched to the tranny.
you can pull the tranny with all the shift linkage still attatched
jack the car up on its side, it will give you more room to mess with the driveshaft, exhaust, and of course the tranny. that way the tranny bellhousing will clear the underside of the car. you may have to swing the rump roast end of the tranny around to the side ogf the car, and lift up on it so the bell housing will come out from under the framerail.
remove the 3 bolts that hold the pitch bar mount before you drop the trans, and remove the starter so it will clear the firewall
drain all the gear oil out before pulling the driveshaft, as the rear seal will leak out all over the floor, and you dont want to lay in a mess!
when you go back tohether, put the starter in last--that way you can tighten the pressure plate bolts through the starter!
when pulling the axles off the trans, or putting them back on, simmply move the tranny over to one side to do each axle, but this is if the motor is out.
i highly recommend pulling the motor first, it will make the job WAY easier, and you can service at least the rear crank seal while youre at it!
if you undo the motor mounts and jack up the tranny, you can get to the bottom stud's nuts better.
if you are going to leave the motor in the car, unbolt the motor mounts from the crossmember and jack the motor up a few inches, so the tranny will slide off the back without hanging up on the crossmember. you will want to leave the motor up to put it back on
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users