Cougar Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 I think there may be a relay in the timer box that is causing the trouble. At least the reason the actuators don't move the locks all the way. You stated that there is not an actuator in the passenger door. So the lock can't be moved then. You then stated that things have stopped. Do you mean the locks are working correctly now? If so, then the timer would seem it was causing this trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweden Posted June 29, 2006 Author Share Posted June 29, 2006 Things definitely aren't working correctly. It is just that the clicking sound stopped after I locked the door. In the past, I could unlock all doors with the key, or the keyless system. I took out the keyless system thinking that was the problem. Nope! I can only unlock the driver's door with the key now. Occasionally, (maybe 1 in 15 times) all the doors will open with the key in the driver's door. Locking all doors simultaneously is no problem--either with the driver's side key, or manually from the inside of the vehicle. Sweden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted June 29, 2006 Share Posted June 29, 2006 Nope! I can only unlock the driver's door with the key now. Occasionally, (maybe 1 in 15 times) all the doors will open with the key in the driver's door. Locking all doors simultaneously is no problem--either with the driver's side key, or manually from the inside of the vehicle. After rereading your statement Sweden I think we have a better clue to the trouble. Since you can't unlock the doors with either the outside or the inside switches then it would seem the trouble would point towards the common timing module or the wires to it. If the passenger door switch will not unlock the doors then the module is in need replacement or you may be able to clean the relay contacts if you can get inside it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweden Posted June 30, 2006 Author Share Posted June 30, 2006 Thanks for the advice Cougar! I'll play a bit more to see if I can get some change. It may seem like I overly-diagnos things, but it is only because I live in Sweden and need to order parts from the U.S. (US-manufactured OBW). This involves int'l telephone calls, having my parents pick up the parts and ship them, etc. A pain! Not only are the OBWs different here, there was no 1996 OBW in Sweden. I have been searching for two months now for a trailer hitch that can be 'approved' by the authorities here. Everything is a battle! Sweden Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cougar Posted June 30, 2006 Share Posted June 30, 2006 I understand. Using a voltmeter of a testlight to verify things would be the best thing to make sure you are on the right track. You can't tell much by just looking at something with this kind of trouble. Your welcome for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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