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First, hi everyone... Ever since I started actually reading up on the Impreza that kinda fell into our (mom and mine's) lap, I've been enamored with Subarus. Anyways, I found this board and it looked cool. Two things... one, I'd like to learn a little more about the older Subarus.

 

..and two... The little Impreza (98 Impreza L Coupe, 4EAT, stock.. brilliant red.. except the spoiler) has a few problems, or one real one that's screwing up everything else... Last friday, the roo had about an 1/8 of a tank of gas left and would start but wouldn't stay on. I assumed it wasn't getting enough gas for one reason or another and we put some more gas in it and it started and stayed on. After the car started up, the AT oil temp light was blinking, the engine light was on, and the car was running very rough. (A/C didn't work, but it was like that for a while.. and it's fixed now.) Until about 3500 or so RPMs, the engine will bounce around in speeds, will hesitate on acceleration sometimes, and more recently will stall when it's cold (the engine, not the weather) or if the A/C is on.

 

I read the codes, pulled a p0102/3 (maf sensor high and low input..), and a misfire on all four cylinders. The saturday after that it was still doing the same thing, so the spark plugs got replaced with some Autolites. I quickly realized that was a bad thing and the next day replaced them with NGK plugs. Engine seemed like it ran a tiny bit better and the misfire codes went away, but still had it's problems. Went to the subaru dealer, he said it might be the gas (using Sam's Club), so I put some 93 grade in there from Wawa (forgot wether they have that on the west coast, but someone around here knows what that is). Anyways, again, ran a little bit better but still had the same problems. Still had the MAF code, so I decided let's take my first foray into auto repair by cleaning it. Pulled it out, sprayed it off with a little carb/choke cleaner from Advance Auto, put it back together and still have the same problems, but the A/C worked (apparently the last people to mess with the intake didn't take care in putting the intake back together and one of the hoses got bent in as opposed to wrapping around which I assume killed the vaccuum... for the A/C anyways.) and the engine sounds a bit deeper. A couple of days after that, the A/C died again so I recleaned the MAF (didn't expect it to help) and replaced the air filter. Found out later that night, one of the vaccuum hoses came loose again. Anyways, I have a new fuel filter in it's box in the car, and we're trying to find someone to replace it. (Mom won't let me try to replace it myself because of my lack of car skills, so I can't really do anything about it. We don't have a garage either, so it's not like I have a place to do it anyways.) If replacing the fuel filter doesn't work, I have no idea what might be wrong with the car, and am open to any suggestions anyone has.

 

As for maintenance on the car, it's had oil changes until about beginning of 2003 and a few in 2004. When we got it (April 2003) we didn't have the money or the knowledge to get anything done except an oil change a couple times. That being said, all of the fluids could stand to be replaced. (Someone said that replacing the AT fluid might get the AT oil temp light to stop blinking when the car turns on and I'm inclined to agree.)

 

Sorry the post was kinda long but I have no idea whats wrong with the car and I figure if anyone wants to take a guess at it I wanted them to have all the info they needed.

 

Also, last question. Does anyone know of a repair shop in Southeastern VA that knows about Subarus?.. Actually, this is the last question... does anyone know where I could go to get a repair manual for my car? Chilton and Haynes don't make a version specifically for the year of my car. If anyone knows if any of the other year Impreza repair manuals would work for my car, that would help. It's got the EJ22 engine, N/A.

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated... just wanna get my roo running back to normal, thanks.

 

-- renyo

 

p.s.: I know nothing of car repair except how to turn a screw, but am more than willing to learn if anyone wants to tell me how to fix something myself. Although I doubt I'll be able to do anything that can fix this.

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I hope a new fuel filter will help. I know I shouldn't have let the gas get that low, but trust me, it wasn't by choice. Just reset the ECU (unplugged the battery for half an hour, that's it, right?) CEL acts like it's been cleared but something triggers it again. Seems to idle a little better but still stalls with the A/C on and still has the other problems. If anyone knows how to change the fuel filter (step by step kinda stuff) or know where I can go to get that info, I could try to do it myself. It look simple enough anyways.

 

-- renyo

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Changing the fuel filter is really easy. All you need is a screwdriver, and maybe a pair of pliers.

 

 

Step 1: Wait a few hours after driving the car (or overnight) to allow the pressure in the fuel system to dissipate before you change the filter.

 

Step 2: Loosen the hose clamps on the fuel filter with your screwdriver and slide them up on the hoses (away from the filter) to get them out of your way.

 

Step 3: Remove the hoses from the old filter. You may need to carefully twist on them with a pair of pliers to get them to come off.

 

Step 4: There is a metal clip that holds the filter in position. Pull the handle to release the grip on the filter, then the filter will be loose, and you can remove it. Save the little rubber ring that fits around the old filter. You will put that back on the new filter.

 

Step 5: Place the rubber ring on the new filter, then clamp the new filter back into position in the filter holder. Make sure the hose fittings on the top of the new filter are pointing in the same direction as the old one.

 

Step 6: Slide the fuel hoses onto the fittings on top of the new filter, then slide the hose clamps back into position and tighten them. Remember there is an "in" and "out" direction to the flow, don't reverse them.

 

That should be all there is to it.

 

Remember, there will be some fuel in the filter and fuel lines when you disconnect them, so have a rag available to catch any spills. (Obviously, you do not want to be playing with fire while you are doing this, so no smoking :brow: )

 

These directions are based on my experience with a 96 Legacy, but I would think your car would be the same.

 

Matt

 

P.S. When you try to start the car after you are done, it may take a little longer than usual to start. Remember the fuel filter has to pressurize and fill with fuel before you will get good fuel pressure to the injectors. Don't be surprised if it takes one or two tries to start.

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Went to the subaru dealer, he said it might be the gas (using Sam's Club), so I put some 93 grade in there from Wawa (forgot wether they have that on the west coast, but someone around here knows what that is).

 

HAHA funny you bring that up. I work at Sam's Club and I use Sam's Club gas... It makes my Legacy run really rough and boy does it ping. They buy there gas from a no name company, just buy the cheapest they can find.... I'm sure it's water.

 

Good Luck on your Impreza problems...

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As far as AT fluid goes, you never really said if you had checked the AT fluid level or not. I would do that immediately and put in any make up ATF needed until you can change it out. At the same time, check out the color of the ATF. Red is good, brown means change out soon. If your Impreza is like our Legacy, ATF change requires only 4 quts for drain and fill, because only about 40% comes out. Dexron III runs from $ .80/qt at Costco for Mobil to about $1.22 for Supertech at Walmart. Cheap insurance. Do a drain and fill ASAP if you have been neglecting your maintenance. $5 buys you a lot of quality maintenance for an AT. Do a second drain and fill about 1000 miles after the first one if your current fluid is really brownish. Continue a third time if needed, until you get a good red color.

 

If you think you have water in your gas, run some gas dryer chemical like Heet through the gas tank. Follow up with an injector cleaner like Techron in the second tank of gas. By all means get the fuel filter changed.

 

My personal opinion is that Sam's gas and Wawa's purchasing strategy is to buy from the lowest bidder, so one is not superior to the other. Wawa is not one step up in quality from Sam's, but kudos for going to 93 octane for the next tank. If I have gas problems like this, I switch to a Top Tier gas or a known brand name for a while (purchasing from a high volume dealer is a plus). If your performance changes, then you know to quit buying Sam's gas. Top Tier designation gives you at least a level of security due to the fact that Top Tier gasolines must have been tested to meet a specified standard.

 

It would also be helpful to tell us how many miles are on your Impreza. That will help focus on your most immediate maintenance needs....Roy

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Wow very informative description which helps a lot. Since you did replace your MAF and you were getting codes for your MAF I wouldn't quite rule that one out yet. As for the fuel filter the replacement is very easy. The nice thing about subarus is that the are easy to learn on.

 

There should be a manual for your car by chiltons or haynes. May have to order it online. But it would tell you step by step how to replace your fuel filter. It's actually a really easy task on the subarus...easier then the spark plaugs you replaced.

 

I was having a problem simular to yours on my 2.5. Ended up being a crack on the intake tube. Ended up replacing it all with an aftermarket and that took care of the problem. I would just check out the whole intake. Might have a crack somewhere on the underside, or on one of the vacuum hoses just mucking everything up.

 

I don't think this would be the problem on your car...but could also be an o2 sensor problem. Thats something I am about to replace on my car very soon. It's not triggering the check engine light so it doesn't get a code. But it's telling the ECU that there are holes in the exhaust causing hesitation. I highly doubt this is what you are experiencing though.

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Wow.. thanks for all the help. I am going to try to see what I can do next with my next paycheck. The Sub dealer at last inspection (free - my.subaru :)) said the alternator belt is also "cracked", and if I want to take the car to college, I've been told I've gotta get it back up to snuff. The belt isn't causing any noticable problems driving, but I don't know if I'd be able to notice anyways. Transmission fluid seems cheap enough, so I might do that first (just went down and looked at it.. I think that'll be getting done very soon).

 

We found some place that would replace the fuel filter (with the one we bought) for 40 dollars and got it done in about an hour from drop off so I went ahead and did the easy thing and let them do it. Next time I have to replace it however I'll try it myself. That being said, the car runs a little better (seems to actually stall less, but will get near enough just the same). Went down to Advance Auto Parts and erased/rescanned the engine... CEL popped up again with the MAF low input code bout 3 seconds into running. I've been thinking that if changing the fuel filter didn't work (if I didn't have any more ideas I'd consider replacing the MAF but that's rather expensive).

 

Can't believe I forgot the miles.. it's at a little over 57000... so the looming 60k is coming up soon... just dying in anticipation. [end sarcasm].

 

As for the Haynes and Chilton manuals... I looked and they have manuals for the 98 Legacy I believe and some of the older Imprezas but nothing for my year which is why I asked if the 98 is close enough to any of the other years for it to be useful.

 

Car seemed to be running fine on Sam's Club gas before but who knows.

 

-- renyo

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Welcome to the board, renyo. You just experienced "Ultimate Subaruism" at its best! You'll find the people here are helpful, pleasant--and your best resource.

 

Would suggest you replace that belt asap--it's cheap insurance and you can certainly do it yourself.

 

As far as MAF sensor goes, check your electrical connectors and all the air/vacuum tubes. If you really feel you have to change the sensor itself, check local salvage yards--a used one would be a lot cheaper than new and would proabably last you a long time.

 

Good luck--and don't be afraid to ask for help or guidance.

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