Lawsonmh15 Posted August 7, 2005 Share Posted August 7, 2005 Bosch SUCKS!!! Purchase: Bosch Platinum +4 = $45 Affect: PO301, PO302 + ***************ty gas mileage + One REALLY pissed off cracker. Resolution: NGK BKR5E-11 (VPower) = $8 Affect: Disappearance of CEL's and resurrection of power. + One REALLY tired, yet satisfied, cracker. I WILL NOT EVER do my own plugs again. The ONLY put the plugs on myself because I'm low on dough and could not justify spending ANOTHER $80 having plugs installed less than 8,000 after the last set. On a personal level... I would like to stomp a 6 foot mudhole in the the owner of Boschs' @$$ and walk it dry. I can't believe that before purchasing the Bosch plugs I searched the forums, read that people had issue with the Platinums and Platinum +2's and reasoned that since I hadn't read anything about the +4's that they would work. COMPLETELY MORONIC. Good people left me the map to the buried treasure and I said phuckit; I know a short cut. MORAL: Search the forums before making purchasing decisions. Also, NEVER EVER run a plug other than NGK. Sorry for shaming the family. It won't happen again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcspeer Posted August 7, 2005 Share Posted August 7, 2005 I dont know which engine you have but the 2.2 can be a real job to put the plugs in, but by removing the washer tank and air filter housing it becomes very easy. I also like the N.G.K. plugs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Legacy777 Posted August 7, 2005 Share Posted August 7, 2005 The 2.2 is cake to do the plugs. The washer thing is definitely a nice little trick. The 2.5 & 2.0 DOHC engines suck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawsonmh15 Posted August 7, 2005 Author Share Posted August 7, 2005 The 2.2 is cake to do the plugs. The washer thing is definitely a nice little trick. The 2.5 & 2.0 DOHC engines suck! 2.5L DOES Suck!!! The washer tank, battery and holder, and airtake took about 10mins to remove. A MUST when attempting. Took all types of socket attachments to do the rears. Took ALOT longer to put in than take out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DerFahrer Posted August 7, 2005 Share Posted August 7, 2005 Hehe. Don't feel bad, most of us have learned the hard way too. I fortunately only suffered a worsening of gas mileage with Bosch Plat 4's. SOHC engines are easy to do plugs on, as they're all sitting on the top side of the head. DOHC's have them in the middle of the head, between the two cams, right next to the frame Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattocs Posted August 7, 2005 Share Posted August 7, 2005 Once you take the washer fluid tank...it takes about 10 minutes to do plugs and wires. I use NGK V-Groove now (the only NGK they had at Auto Zone in stock) and they work really well and were really cheap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blitz Posted August 7, 2005 Share Posted August 7, 2005 Resolution: NGK BKR5E-11 (VPower) 4th digit in is the heat range. I'm sorta curious as to whether the correct part for your engine is a really 5 or actually a 6? (5 being hotter). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawsonmh15 Posted August 7, 2005 Author Share Posted August 7, 2005 4th digit in is the heat range. I'm sorta curious as to whether the correct part for your engine is a really 5 or actually a 6? (5 being hotter). The manual wants the NGK PFR5B-11, but I didn't want to drop another $45 on plugs. CEL hasn't come back yet. Now I have to figure out why the hell my main Crank Pulley has been prone to coming loose and kicking the belts off. I'm getting a good chunk dough from uncle sam soon and plan on replacing/modding some things, but I think I'll start with a pulley, belts, anti-sway bars, battery... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blitz Posted August 7, 2005 Share Posted August 7, 2005 The manual wants the NGK PFR5B-11, but I didn't want to drop another $45 on plugs. CEL hasn't come back yet. The manuals for my 2.5 & 2.2 both list heat range #6, that was the reason for my question. Now I have to figure out why the hell my main Crank Pulley has been prone to coming loose and kicking the belts off. :banghead I think that once it comes loose it tends to distort the key and the keyway enough to make it almost impossible to keep it from coming loose from there-on out. Maybe someone else can chime in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawsonmh15 Posted August 8, 2005 Author Share Posted August 8, 2005 The manuals for my 2.5 & 2.2 both list heat range #6, that was the reason for my question. I think that once it comes loose it tends to distort the key and the keyway enough to make it almost impossible to keep it from coming loose from there-on out. Maybe someone else can chime in. What would I need to do to remedy that situation? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lmdew Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 What are you torquing it to? Most books have the torque wrong, take it to 120-125 ft lbs. Make sure the pulley, key and cam are still in good condition. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted August 8, 2005 Share Posted August 8, 2005 I'm no expert, but! You might need to replace the pulley itself. If the key and crank are chewed up I believe it's possible to have the crank end built-up with metal and a new keyway ground in. Try doing a search of the forum--it's been discussed in some detail before. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lawsonmh15 Posted August 8, 2005 Author Share Posted August 8, 2005 I'm no expert, but! You might need to replace the pulley itself. If the key and crank are chewed up I believe it's possible to have the crank end built-up with metal and a new keyway ground in. Try doing a search of the forum--it's been discussed in some detail before. Good luck. Took the bolt as far out as possible without hitting the fan shroud and looked into the area. I see no semblance of a key on either the pulley or shaft. When I rotate the pulley, I don't feel anything that would indicate a key was ever there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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