hawksoob Posted August 21, 2005 Share Posted August 21, 2005 So, this past January, I was contemplating doing my brakes ... new pads and rotors and all. I kept putting it off and then I started a new job with crazy hours, so I didn't have the time to do it. I took the car to the Sears near my work and they put on new pads all around, and cut the rotors. A few months down the road, I start noticing a shimmy/pulsation while braking at highway speeds. Yesterday I took it back to Sears to have them check it out. I come back to pick it up and they tell me the rotors are out of spec. Apparently, according to the technician, they were very very close to being out of spec when they cut them in January, now they are for sure out of spec and I need new rotors. "Of course, if we replace the rotors now, you'll need new pads, too." $180 is the estimate. Now, am I wrong in assuming that, when they were doing this job in the first place, that they should have informed me that my rotors were so close to being out of spec that I should go ahead and replace them instead of cut them, saving me time, money and frustration having to come back only 7 months later to get them replaced anyway? I would have been fine with that, then. I had the money then. I was pretty much expecting to have them tell me I needed new rotors then and was actually a bit surprised when they said they could cut them. I just feel like they were/are trying to screw me and had full intention of letting me go with close-to-out-of-spec rotors knowing I'd have to come back and get them replaced. Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kmix99 Posted August 21, 2005 Share Posted August 21, 2005 Yep, sounds like they got you. That is why I avoid chainstore mechanics at all costs (Sears, Pep Boys, Midas, Monroe, etc, etc). The minimum thickness on the front brake rotors is 22.0 mm. They come new with a thickness of 24mm. That leaves only 2 mm for wear and resurfacing. I feel it really is a waste of money to have the rotors cut because you don't have a lot of room to spare. I would reuse the pads if they are not unevenly worn. Maybe if you get a day or two free from work, you can replace the rotors yourself. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickensheets Posted August 21, 2005 Share Posted August 21, 2005 I would get two new front rotors from the local parts house and install them yourself. Use the same pads at first. If they turn out to be worn and pull to one side when braking simply get new pads. Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tcspeer Posted August 21, 2005 Share Posted August 21, 2005 Never turn a rotor, go to Auto Zone and buy a new one. Its not but a few dollars more. This is advice from someone who is really tough on brakes. (Rural mail carrier) car loaded down with lots of weight and around 500 hi speed stops a day. Use two sets of pads on the rotor and then replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
idosubaru Posted August 21, 2005 Share Posted August 21, 2005 i routinely pad-slap my subaru's with no affect on braking. i've never turned my rotors. i have put over 150,000 miles on front rotors before....that's more than a couple sets of front pads. if you change your pads early enough i haven't had any problems retaining the original rotors. if the rotors worked fine the 5,000 miles before your changed pads why bother changing them just because you get new pads? i realize that years ago it was standard practice to turn rotors, i believe that idea could easily be tested and done away with for certain makes/models vehicles with newer materials and technologies and average to below average driving conditions. i've taken my XT6 off road for all of the 220,000 miles it's been in my posession. i'm not saying this is best across the board, but i've had excellent luck with subaru brake rotors lasting a ton of miles. just did the front pads on my '97 OBS a couple weeks ago and did the same thing. they feel great. nice and stout, just like they were when i got the car. pad-slapping is awesome, quick and easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Olnick Posted August 21, 2005 Share Posted August 21, 2005 pad-slapping is awesome, quick and easy. Just to clarify--by "pad-slapping" you mean . . . ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gravelRX Posted August 21, 2005 Share Posted August 21, 2005 Just replacing pads and giving the rotors a hard look for wear and/or damage I suspect. Jay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattocs Posted August 21, 2005 Share Posted August 21, 2005 I had sears do my front brakes...pads and rotors. They did a good job...I did new pads for front and rear, and new rotors on the back. Front rotors from Sears were still good and nice and smooth...so I reused them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawksoob Posted August 29, 2005 Author Share Posted August 29, 2005 If I decide to do just rotors and not pads, is it necessary to remove the pads, or is as simple as loosening and moving the caliper up out of the way and pulling the rotor off? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattocs Posted August 29, 2005 Share Posted August 29, 2005 If I decide to do just rotors and not pads, is it necessary to remove the pads, or is as simple as loosening and moving the caliper up out of the way and pulling the rotor off? Should be able to do it without taking the pads out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hawksoob Posted August 29, 2005 Author Share Posted August 29, 2005 Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwatt Posted August 29, 2005 Share Posted August 29, 2005 If I decide to do just rotors and not pads, is it necessary to remove the pads, or is as simple as loosening and moving the caliper up out of the way and pulling the rotor off? To remove and install rotors, the caliper brackets have to be removed to allow the rotors to slide off. (You can leave the caliper attached to the bracket) There are two 17mm bolts that secure each caliper bracket to the knuckle assembly. I've used "mechanics wire" to hold the caliper and bracket assembly up and out of the way while sliding rotors off and back on to the hub. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickensheets Posted August 29, 2005 Share Posted August 29, 2005 I use a coat hanger to form a hook of sorts. This keeps the weight of the caliper from tugging too much on the brake line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john in KY Posted August 29, 2005 Share Posted August 29, 2005 I have a Sears story. About 12 years ago I was still in the military and spent all day Saturday and Sunday at the autocraft shop working on my first Subaru. A friend was working on his Chrysler van in the next bay. He completely replaced the front suspension...ball joints, tie rod ends , struts, brake rotors, brake pads and new CV axles. Took the van Monday morning to Sears for an alignment. Sears first did a "free" inspection. My friend was both shocked and amused when he was given the written report. According to Sears the front end was completely worn out and the estimate cost to replace all the components they found in need of replacement was either $1100 or $1300. I can't recall which. This all happened during the time Sears was involved in a class action lawsuit. Seems a lot of people thought they had been grossly overcharged for work not needed/done. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zephyr Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 I have a Sears story. About 12 years ago I was still in the military and spent all day Saturday and Sunday at the autocraft shop working on my first Subaru. A friend was working on his Chrysler van in the next bay. He completely replaced the front suspension...ball joints, tie rod ends , struts, brake rotors, brake pads and new CV axles. Took the van Monday morning to Sears for an alignment. Sears first did a "free" inspection. My friend was both shocked and amused when he was given the written report. According to Sears the front end was completely worn out and the estimate cost to replace all the components they found in need of replacement was either $1100 or $1300. I can't recall which. This all happened during the time Sears was involved in a class action lawsuit. Seems a lot of people thought they had been grossly overcharged for work not needed/done. Thats rediculous. They didn't even look under the car or they would have noticed the new parts and would have quoted that job. If I was the customer, it would have been everything I could do to not slap the guy behind the counter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shortlid Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 Unless the rotors are warped DO NOT TURN THEM!! Modern rotors have so little "meat" to them that turning just once sualy takes them to min. thinkness. I just rough-up with corse sand paper to take the glaze off them and pad slap'em! Worked for 300k on a Toyota Corolla Wagon!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattocs Posted August 30, 2005 Share Posted August 30, 2005 My trouble with sears (not just car related) 1. November 2003. I was quitting college to work for a while. I applied online at Sears, and after the questionaire it schedules you for an interview. I go in for it, and no one knows what I am talking about. They look at me like I am insane. The lady at the desk is like 'yeah, we'll have someone called you' and she didn't even ask my name. This isn't a horrible thing...but just annoything. 2. January 2005. I get lazy and take my car in to Sears to have an oil change. They offer the free tire rotation, so I say okay. A week later someone points out that I am missing a lugnut. Either they didn't tighten it, or forgot about it. 3. Febuary 2005. I went to Sears optical to get an eye exam. The optician is about done, and tried to turn on her machine that looks at the retna. The light bulb in it is broken, but she said 'you don't need it.' Three months late I am diagnosed with a detatched retna, macula off, and need surgury. $30,000! Good thing I had health insurance through my job and only had to pay $1,000 of it. If they could have seen it was starting to detatch or getting weak in Febuary, it could have been fixed in a doctors office with a laser and I would not have had to miss three weeks of work and have surgury. I hate Sears...but I love their tools. That is the only think i'll buy there is tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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