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Failed emissions - HELP


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32 replies to this topic

#1 Camelwagon

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Posted 23 August 2005 - 08:40 AM

Ok so i failed my emissions test for too much CO and HC. Dang it. I know that CO usually means partially burned fuel and too much fuel and not enough air, so where is the screw to adjust the fuel/air mixture and make it a bit leaner? Or is that what I should do?
And HC means unburned fuel or vacuum leaks, I know some vacuum hoses arent hooked up and/or missing. I also did a vacuum leak test and it showed that i have some late ignition timing. How do I adjust that too? Any other tips for passing? Please helppppp.
Thanks guys...

#2 edrach

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Posted 23 August 2005 - 08:49 AM

Which model do you have? That would help.

#3 Camelwagon

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Posted 23 August 2005 - 08:55 AM

Ya sorry, its an 85 GL wagon, 5spd, 4x4, EA82 carbed, 1.8 engine.
Thanks.

#4 Sweet82

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Posted 23 August 2005 - 09:32 AM

I have the same problem with Mad Max, 84 GL (EA81).

I was told it won't pass emissions testing.

A neighbor told me to delute my gas by 2/3 with denatured alcohol.

He guaranteed it would pass

Thoughts...
Glenn
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01 Forester

#5 Camelwagon

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Posted 23 August 2005 - 09:39 AM

Hmmm I've kinda heard that too but i hear it hurts the engine tho cuz alcohol doenst mix well with gas. So are you talkin real alcohol or rubbing alcohol?

#6 Camelwagon

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Posted 23 August 2005 - 10:39 AM

Any other thoughts on passing emissions?? PLEASSEEEEE. Thanks.

#7 edrach

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Posted 23 August 2005 - 11:45 AM

Emissions is a black art; if you're making a trip to Seattle in the near future, I can suggest a guy that will guarantee you pass or he doesn't charge for his services. His cost is $39.95 plus tax and he's gotten at least a dozen cars to pass for me over the years. Sorry, that's the best I can do for you.

Any other thoughts on passing emissions?? PLEASSEEEEE. Thanks.



#8 Camelwagon

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Posted 23 August 2005 - 11:48 AM

Ahh man youre teasing me... hehe So next time you should try to learn his secret recipe. :)

#9 edrach

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Posted 23 August 2005 - 12:25 PM

There is no secret recipe; at least no single recipe. Different failures require different solutions. And it's almost impossible to solve this problem without an emissions analyzer. The guy I suggested is a certified emissions specialist, with the proper equipment, and at least 20 years of experience dealing with problem cars. I wasn't being a teaser, just offering a working solution if you have another reason for justifying a trip to Seattle.

#10 NorthWet

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Posted 23 August 2005 - 01:13 PM

If I am thinking about the same guy that Edrach was talking about, he just tests, tweaks, and changes until the engine and emissions equipment is functioning as it should. No snake-oil, no trickery; just knowing what causes what problems and how to deal with them.

Basics for passing emissions is fresh ignition parts (plugs, wires, cap, rotor), proper ignition timing, clean air filter, clean carburetor passages, no air leaks, functioning O2 sensor, and functioing catalytic converters.

You did not say if your problem was at idle, higher RPM, or both.

#11 Camelwagon

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Posted 23 August 2005 - 01:16 PM

Ya, all that was replaced. How do I check my cat? Can i bang on it lightly with something? I failed at idle both for HC and CO, passed at higher rpms. :) Thanks.

#12 jeffroid

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Posted 23 August 2005 - 01:23 PM

A lot of the problems that I have had with my old Subarus is that many of them don't have the original engines in them. I've dealt with an '82 hatchback, an '83 GL-10 Sedan, and two different '83 wagons and they all had very different emission control components. As such, it is often nearly impossible to get everything hooked up properly when you are dealing with a transplanted engine. Once several years ago I passed emissions with about half the stuff disabled, and I have had trouble passing other times when seemingly everything was hooked up.

Does edrach's buddy guarantee passing even under those conditions when it is difficult or impossible to get everything hooked up properly ? ? ?

I might need to know come this October ! ! !

#13 Camelwagon

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Posted 23 August 2005 - 01:33 PM

Ya makes sense. So how do you find out if the engine is original? Wheres the ID number and what does it have to match up with on the rest of the car? Thanks.

#14 NorthWet

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Posted 23 August 2005 - 01:59 PM

Ya makes sense. So how do you find out if the engine is original? Wheres the ID number and what does it have to match up with on the rest of the car? Thanks.

It's not so much the engine itself, but all of the ancilliary stuff like intake manifold, exhaust ASV adapters, EGR (or not). If you strip an engine bare and then put the car's original manifolds, etc, on it, then there isn't much of a problem. Most people don't bother do this and jsut slap an engine in.

#15 edrach

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Posted 23 August 2005 - 05:50 PM

Does edrach's buddy guarantee passing even under those conditions when it is difficult or impossible to get everything hooked up properly ? ? ?

I might need to know come this October ! ! !


Firstly, he's not my buddy. But that being said, I've run enough cars by him to know him on a first name basis and he knows most of the cars I bring by are Subarus. As mentioned before he is a certified emissions specialist and works out of a van parked right next to the emissions testing place on 6th Ave. South in the industrial area just south of Spokane Street. His engine analyzer is in his van and as northwet said, he tweaks, probes, adjusts, looks for vacuum leaks, etc. until he finds the cause. Sometimes he locates the faulty component, tells you what it is, what it will cost and you can install it and bring the car back. He doesn't charge until he actually gets a good reading and is sure that you can go right next store and pass. Sometimes he even will take the car through for you if it requires proper "techniques" to pass. Trust me, I haven't spent more than $39.95 plus tax (and parts if needed) in the last five years. I got tired of the so called experts that were dinging me $150 and up and if it didn't pass, that was enough money to get a "waiver." Occasionally, he will write up enough information for you to get a "waiver." I don't know what he charges you then since I've never had that problem.

#16 Camelwagon

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Posted 24 August 2005 - 09:33 AM

Hey so I'm wondering, what if I disconnect the heat pipe from the exhaust to the air intake, will that help with emissions? Since it wont bring up bad air? Thanks.

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#17 edrach

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Posted 24 August 2005 - 10:00 AM

Probably not, since that round thing next to the hose is a temp controlled flapper that diverts heated air into the air filter housing in the winter when it's cold; during the summer it's normally closed anyway and you're pulling in unheated air.

Hey so I'm wondering, what if I disconnect the heat pipe from the exhaust to the air intake, will that help with emissions? Since it wont bring up bad air? Thanks.

Posted Image



#18 NorthWet

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Posted 24 August 2005 - 12:40 PM

Hey so I'm wondering, what if I disconnect the heat pipe from the exhaust to the air intake, will that help with emissions? Since it wont bring up bad air? Thanks.

It's not "bad air", it is merely heated air to help the engine run properly in cold conditions.

#19 Camelwagon

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Posted 25 August 2005 - 08:59 AM

Well, I failed emissions again yesterday. But its getting better, only failed at HC this time. It was way high like 400 and should be 250 or something. CO was real low like .04 and normal is 2.9. So I'm running way too lean right? Any other ideas? Thanksss.

#20 Camelwagon

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Posted 25 August 2005 - 10:16 AM

Is it true that taking out the air filter might help in passing emissions??

#21 edrach

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Posted 25 August 2005 - 10:54 AM

Yes especially if it's dirty or oil soaked.

Is it true that taking out the air filter might help in passing emissions??



#22 Nug

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Posted 25 August 2005 - 11:12 AM

Alcohol, like methanol or whatever, can help a car pass. You just don't want to leave it in there for weeks, because it will corrode things.


Run it lower on fuel, throw a gallon of denatured alcohol in there from the hardware store, Maybe throw in a few more degrees of ignition timing, show up at the test station with the engine fully warmed up, and you'll pass.

Drive the car around intil nearly empty, and fill up with your regular fuel.

#23 Camelwagon

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Posted 25 August 2005 - 11:15 AM

Cool, thanks. Will it drive and idle well with alcohol in it?

#24 Camelwagon

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Posted 25 August 2005 - 11:22 AM

So how exactly do you advance the timing? I've been wondering this for a while now. I know you turn something in the distributor?

#25 1985GLWAGON

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Posted 25 August 2005 - 12:35 PM

You have to turn the distributor itself. If it's like mine there should be 2 hold down bolts, just loosen them and turn the whole dist. to advance or retard, can't remember which direction is which though.




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