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Guest Message by DevFuse

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EA82 (EA82T) head bolts

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8 replies to this topic

#1 Guest_r00fi_*

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Posted 30 July 2003 - 06:17 PM

Hi Guys,

Crappy :mad: Chiltons workshop manual doesn't show EA82 head bolt tightening sequence.

Anyone out there have the info, or even better, a picture?

Using copper head gaskets and have been advised +5% torque on the bolts - any comments?


86 RX Turbo - EA82T

#2 Guest_canajun2eh_*

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Posted 30 July 2003 - 07:31 PM

The sequence doesn't matter greatly.

Work from the center bolts, in a circle pattern, to the outside. Tighten in three stages, exact torque doesn't matter, but get them all the same. The last tightening should be to spec. Go around a fourth time, but in the opposite direction, checking all bolts for proper torque and to make sure you haven't missed one (happened to me).

BEFORE YOU START: Clean all bolt holes in the block. I made a thread chaser by sacrificing an old heald bolt. If you don't have an old head bolt, any old metric bolt with correct thread size will do. Using a hacksaw, I cut a slot lengthwise the full length of the threaded part. Use the thread chaser to clean the threads in the block. Remove the chaser from time to time, and CLEAN the slot.

Use a wire brush to clean all head bolt threads. You might have to use a jackknife to break the varnish on the bolt threads. THE THREADS MUST BE CLEAN.

Apply oil to the head bolts before threading them into the block.


#3 Guest_x silvershad0w x_*

Guest_x silvershad0w x_*
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Posted 30 July 2003 - 09:06 PM

I can't agree more about cleaning up the bolts and the bolt holes, this is <span style="text-decoration:underline">crucial</span>, especially with copper head gaskets. (where did you get copper head gaskets for the ea82?) This can throw your torque off by miles and miles.

I wold also suggest using a copper head gasket spray, like the kind felpro makes. I used that on a chevy I did a few years ago and havent had trouble yet. I'm sure you know, but you either check the heads and block very, very close, or get em milled to a true surface, not worth chancing it with the copper gaskets. I never have used +5% tq on copper in aluminum, I stick with specs. We added 10 ft. lbs on that chevy, which was cast iron block. If the engine has been overheated at any time, upping the torque is not a good idea, the bolt holes get softer and they will strip out.

#4 Guest_r00fi_*

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Posted 30 July 2003 - 09:19 PM

Copper head gaskets made here in Australia. Cheaper than original Subaru jobs. Just send them the original and they copy it.

Solid copper gaskets come pre-coated with silver frost. Gasket manufacturer recommended +5%.

#5 Guest_GlCraigGT_*

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Posted 31 July 2003 - 02:43 AM

Here is the info I have

step 1 => 22ft-lb or 30 N*m
step 2 => 43ft-lb or 58 N*m
step 3 => 47ft-lb or 64 N*m

<img src="http://home.comcast.net/~c.moe/sequence.jpg" style="border:0;"/>

#6 Guest_wjmgl10_*

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Posted 31 July 2003 - 07:04 AM


Like...how much does it cost you? The last time I got Headgaskets, the OEM SUBARU Turbo ones cost me $50 for the pair. A while back, some other board members got a place setup to do Copper HGs, I didnt get any, but I did ask for a price, and it was $75, or maybe a little more.
(77 and 115 in AUD respectively)

How much can you get them for?

#7 Guest_r00fi_*

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Posted 31 July 2003 - 05:09 PM

Thanks for all the info. Very helpfull !!!!!!!!!


OEM Subaru head gasket kit was around $170 AUD, Copper gaskets were, from memory, $140 AUD incl shipping

#8 Guest_baccaruda_*

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Posted 31 July 2003 - 08:11 PM

pub110.ezboard.com/fultim...D=83.topic :)

#9 Guest_wjmgl10_*

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Posted 31 July 2003 - 09:52 PM

LOL Theres me with 123 posts!

Thanks for finding that!

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