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axel nut won't come off


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15 replies to this topic

#1 rubysubaru

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Posted 26 August 2005 - 05:39 PM

I do not have an impact wrench. I am trying to take off the right front axel nut. I just had a six foot black pipe on my tee bar and it still will not budge. I also heated the nut with a mapp gas torch. Am I wrong in presuming this is a regular right hand thread on the axel nut. If so I would like to kill the guy that over tightened the nut. I am scared the tee bar will snap.

#2 NoahDL88

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Posted 26 August 2005 - 06:00 PM

Make sure the wheel is on the ground, that makes it easier, or it did for me on one of my subies, on the other i'm also having a heck of a time. afraid i'm gonna throw my back out.

#3 wintersubaru

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Posted 26 August 2005 - 06:24 PM

lefty losey righty tighty

#4 rubysubaru

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Posted 26 August 2005 - 06:48 PM

I have the car tires on the ground and I am turning lefty loosy (counter clock wise). Also a note I did un-peen the castle nut part that was bent in to prevent it loosening out. I also just broke my Craftsman tee bar using the six foot pipe. I think I will go to a garage and give them twenty bucks to loosen it for me.

#5 thegnman

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Posted 26 August 2005 - 06:51 PM

I do not have an impact wrench. I am trying to take off the right front axel nut. I just had a six foot black pipe on my tee bar and it still will not budge. I also heated the nut with a mapp gas torch. Am I wrong in presuming this is a regular right hand thread on the axel nut. If so I would like to kill the guy that over tightened the nut. I am scared the tee bar will snap.


The nut was put on with an impact gun? If so you more than likley need one to take it off. Also if it hasnt been off for a while try using PB Blaster on it that stuff works great on tough nuts. One more thing try tapping it with a hammer. Hopefully it wasnt crossthreaded . Goodluck

#6 tcspeer

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Posted 26 August 2005 - 07:11 PM

If you have a Harbor Freight store near you they sell a Giant 1/2 in breaker bar get it and use the pipe you have and P.B. blaster as suggested and it will come off.

#7 mattocs

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Posted 26 August 2005 - 07:28 PM

I broke three ratchets getting mine off. They were all 3/8 inch drive, and I was using an adapter with the large socket. I ended up getting a 1/2 inch drive ratchet and a pipe to get it off.

Its tough...but it comes off.

#8 gbianchi

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Posted 26 August 2005 - 09:55 PM

I had to use a chisel and BIG hammer to get mine off, arrrg

#9 NorthLight

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Posted 26 August 2005 - 10:03 PM

You will need a replacement nut, as you will mung the crap out of the one you take off. Mine, we used a dremel to un-peen the castle nut. Given that I was replacing the front right half-axle, and it came with a new nut, I was good to go. PB blaster, torch, and an electric impact wrench finally got it loose.

#10 itzik93

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Posted 27 August 2005 - 05:40 AM

There is a simple and easy way to do it, and you need for that GOOD TOOLS.

Im using "Profexene" 1/2" SET and its wonderful.

I bought a rod with an 1/2" adapter. Its exactly like 1/2" ratchet but without the ratchet. I put *1 meter* pipe on it and turn it counter clockwise. This way you are multyplying your hand torque very easy (its also good to open the crankshaft pully nut)

Piece of cake...

Itzik

#11 q240z

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Posted 27 August 2005 - 08:11 AM

Yup, Harbor Freight's the way to go. $10 or so will get you a tough 3' breaker bar. Put it on and stand on the end of it. Use the pipe if you have to, but don't break your back trying to lift it, ferchrissakes.

#12 frag

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Posted 27 August 2005 - 08:28 AM

There is a simple and easy way to do it, and you need for that GOOD TOOLS.

Im using "Profexene" 1/2" SET and its wonderful.

I bought a rod with an 1/2" adapter. Its exactly like 1/2" ratchet but without the ratchet. I put *1 meter* pipe on it and turn it counter clockwise. This way you are multyplying your hand torque very easy (its also good to open the crankshaft pully nut)

Piece of cake...

Itzik


How about a little icing on that cake for good measure ? :-p

#13 rubysubaru

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Posted 17 September 2005 - 02:10 PM

I finally went to a garage and they could not get it off either using there most powerfull impact wrench. They suggested I cut it off. I went home and first drilled holes on opposite ends of the nut then finished one side with a carbide dremel tip. Smaked it with a chisel and it came off. At least I felt good that I was trying to take it off origanally as if it was a right hand thread, which it was. Now I am going to finish the job. Thanks All!!!

#14 dpoppeli

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Posted 17 September 2005 - 09:11 PM

Well it appears you solved it. I remember having to go to a garage for the same reason but I went to a truck garage... BIG impacts!. Just recently had a hitch put on by a private trailer shop and the guy there said his trick with commonly stuck undercarriage bolts/nuts was a blast with a torch and then a squirt of windex to rapidly cool it... wa-la (and I suppose you might even upgrade that nut due to case hardening at the same time).

I finally went to a garage and they could not get it off either using there most powerfull impact wrench. They suggested I cut it off. I went home and first drilled holes on opposite ends of the nut then finished one side with a carbide dremel tip. Smaked it with a chisel and it came off. At least I felt good that I was trying to take it off origanally as if it was a right hand thread, which it was. Now I am going to finish the job. Thanks All!!!



#15 DaveT

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Posted 17 September 2005 - 10:44 PM

> I also just broke my Craftsman tee bar using the six foot pipe.

I use a 3/4" drive breaker bar with whatever piece of pipe is handy *if* needed. A breaker bar is much stronger than a ratchet. Go to an industrial tool supply catalog like MSCdirect.com, coastal tool, Mcmaster Carr.

Dave

#16 subie94

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Posted 17 September 2005 - 10:58 PM

>I use a 3/4" drive breaker bar with whatever piece of pipe is handy *if* needed. A breaker bar is much stronger than a ratchet.


i'd use a 1/2" drive breaker bar.but of course i've broken those too.




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