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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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R-134a retrofit kit for a GL-10?


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9 replies to this topic

#1 Zoombaru

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Posted 27 August 2005 - 12:06 AM

The air conditioning in my GL-10 desperately needs to be recharged. I have access to all of the equipment I need to properly evacuate and recharge the system, I just don't want to spend a ton of money on a car that I'm most likely about to sell. I wouldn't be surprised if the retrofit were cheaper than recharging the system with R-12 though. So for those of you who have done the retrofit, where did you buy the kit and about how much did it run you?

#2 WJM

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Posted 27 August 2005 - 01:56 AM

napa has a universal kit...$30 or so.

#3 Zoombaru

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Posted 27 August 2005 - 02:20 AM

Thanks, Will. This is the first car I've had that's been old enough to need retrofitting. I guess I'll decide this week if it's worth the effort.

#4 TahoeFerrari

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Posted 27 August 2005 - 07:23 AM

I retrofitted my '89 wagon a few months ago. I used an "id" interdynamics kit I bought at Kragen for about $40 (it was on sale). I think it's normally about $55.

I prefer this kit to the one Napa has under their brand name (which Kragen also carries under the original manufacturers name) because 1) it has a charge level guage indicator built into the charging hose and 2) the oil and 134a refrigerant are already combined (there's no separate can of oil).

The wagon really cools well since I converted it. I've been doing a lot of driving up and down the Sacremento & San Juaquin vallys and you know how hot it gets there. With the outside air in the high 90s or even over 100, the inside temp is around 70-75 and the compressor is nowhere near running 100% of the time. This is with a Matsus.h.i.ta compressor what was a dealer installed kit put on by the original owner. I still think the factory Hitatchi compressors are the better a/c system - the one in my 3-door cools even better than the wagon and cycles less frequently.

I've used the same kit in my '66 caddy with equally good results.

#5 subyrally

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Posted 27 August 2005 - 07:28 AM

just thought you should know, 134 isnt as cold as r12. if you can find someone that can replace the 12 for you, jump on it. r12 was much more efficiant, but i think it asnt enviromentally happy, sure, happy works, in the case of an accident. it is still available, you just neeed a mechanic with a liscence to et ahold of it, that or a home hvac tech, i thnk. i work at an autoparts store, the peopl that have converted from r12 didnt seem to happy about the swap.

#6 WJM

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Posted 27 August 2005 - 09:42 AM

Ive had 134 systems make ICE on the cabin vents. Dont tell me it aint cold. :headbang:

#7 NoahDL88

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Posted 27 August 2005 - 10:35 AM

Ive had 134 systems make ICE on the cabin vents. Dont tell me it aint cold. :headbang:


Techinally the thermal transfer properties of R-134a are not as efficient as R-12, that same system that iced your vents with R-134a would technically ice them more with R-12

#8 Subi81

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Posted 27 August 2005 - 10:58 AM

To the people that converted how did you go about it.
ie
1. discharge/flush system at local ac place
2. go home and switch seals
3. recharge system
4. check for leaks
5. enjoy cool air.

Reason I am asking is. My 86 wagon sat in a field for years, developed a leak. Leaked out all of its refrigerent. Then I bought it. Had to remove the evaporator because mice build a nest around/ in it.

Is there anyway that I can do some leak detection at home before I waste a whole conversion kit?

Thanks

#9 Zoombaru

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Posted 27 August 2005 - 12:13 PM

I think the reason that people have problems with their R-134a conversions is because most do-it-yourselfers don't have the equipment to do it correctly. The system needs to be completely evacuated of any moisture, air, oil, old refrigerant and all other contaminants before it is recharged. It also helps to have a manifold pressure gauge and a way to accurately meter how much refrigerant you're putting in your system. Too much or too little refrigerant will cause poor cooling.

Subi, there is an air conditioning specific dye and black light you can buy that is one of the best leak detection methods out there. You just add a little bit of it to your system, run it and drive normally for a day or so, then shine the light around all fittings, along hoses, etc. for green spots where the dye leaked out. There are also electronic leak detectors which don't work quite as well. They beep at you whenever they decect a leak, but they aren't as accurate. Especially for small leaks.

#10 jeffast

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Posted 28 August 2005 - 02:35 AM

i did mine i used some of my dads remodeling connectionms to borrow an evacuater. after you get one of those all you do is hook it up let it run for a bit then close it up ans start adding coolent i had to hot wire my compressor to get it to work properly at the time either way my system has a leak so it only worked for about two weeks but it was cold but not as cold as my chevrolet's a/c




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