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taipered press fits?


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22 replies to this topic

#1 MorganM

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Posted 03 September 2005 - 12:49 PM

Tierod end into knuckle

Ball joint into control arm

I was told to just use the castle nut to pull it through. Well I stripped out the nut on the ball joint; it's not working that way. Didn't want to try it with the tierod end.

Tried putting a jack under tierod end and forcing it up through the knuckle. Just compresses the suspension. Put a bar between knuckle and unibody to prevent suspension from compressing but it just lifts the vehicle.

With the tension of the jack under the tierod end I put a socket over the castle nut on the tirerod end and hammerd onto the knukle. HOping to force the knuckle down; thus forcing the tierod taiperd end through the knukle. Pounded for over 30 minutes to no avail.

Then I tried a big C clamp. Put the one end under the tierod end. Put the other end onto the socket. This worked pretty well but just before it all pressed together the C clamp gave out.... the little wussy bar used to tighten the C clamp just bends due to the force required to keep compressing.

Now what?

#2 GLCraig

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Posted 03 September 2005 - 01:17 PM

It sounds like they may have given you the wrong parts. Whenever I've done a tie rod or ball joint, they have dropped 99% of the way in and all I need to do is torque the nut to spec.

#3 Qman

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Posted 03 September 2005 - 01:23 PM

With new ones some times the dust coverings cn be a bit firm. All you should need to do is push them in with your hands and tighten the nuts. Sometimes I have had to use a jack but just to add enough(read slight) pressure to hold the shaft from turning. You may have the right parts but I would consider trying sa different brand if you continue to have problems.


BTW, very funny (Ih8mud)

#4 Humble Nuto 53

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Posted 03 September 2005 - 03:59 PM

if i read this right, the tie rod sits ON TOP of the casting....

the nut is on the bottom

just thought somehow i read you tried the opposite

#5 Numbchux

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Posted 03 September 2005 - 06:59 PM

if i read this right, the tie rod sits ON TOP of the casting....

the nut is on the bottom

just thought somehow i read you tried the opposite


That's what I thought too? are you doing it right???

and I've always just used the nut to pull it down through the control arm too...don't know what's up here

#6 [HTi]Johnson

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Posted 04 September 2005 - 11:55 AM

MorganM:
Tried putting a jack under tierod end and forcing it up through the knuckle. Just compresses the suspension. Put a bar between knuckle and unibody to prevent suspension from compressing but it just lifts the vehicle.



I infer you're trying to push the tierod up through the knuckle?

#7 Numbchux

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Posted 04 September 2005 - 02:45 PM

I infer you're trying to push the tierod up through the knuckle?


that's what it sounds like...

#8 MorganM

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Posted 04 September 2005 - 10:43 PM

The ball joints are new. The tiereod ends are original; I had to take them out of the knuckle (but leve them on the tierod) in order to take the knuckle off. Now I'm just trying to put it all back together.

The tierod end comes up from below the knuckle and the castle nut sits on top of the knuckle. I spose I could try the nut to pull it through; I just didnt want it to strip the threads like it did on the ball joint.

Maybe the ball joints are wrong. But the tierod ends are original. Maybe there's too much damn RUST! :-p Ohhh how I love working on rusty old vehicles. :banghead:

#9 Humble Nuto 53

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Posted 04 September 2005 - 11:08 PM

i would swear by my eproctophilia that youre coming at it upside-down.
take a piece of paper groc bag, and get your filthy finger and make an
impression of the top and bottom holes, and you will seeeeee the light, brother.

the top hole will be bigger than ya figure, and the lower will be lesser, lester.

#10 Ross

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Posted 05 September 2005 - 02:16 AM

If there is enough rust to prevent the ball joint attaching properly, you should replace it. The tapered shaft should just slide in, without having to force it at all.

Dunno about ea82s, but the ea81 ball joints sit below the knuckle as morganm describes. I would presume the ea82 ones are the same??

#11 Humble Nuto 53

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Posted 05 September 2005 - 02:31 AM

baw jerndt?

i thought we were talkin tie rod end (outer)

lol, and even so, the taper is inserted from the top

could be me reading all slanty like though

#12 Numbchux

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Posted 05 September 2005 - 02:53 AM

this was driving me nuts, so I ran out and looked at my car (it's almost 3am). and he's right (or we're both wrong)...
Posted Image

I had a hell of a time getting the tie rod ends out of the '85 when I stripped it, good thing I wasn't trying to save 'em, so I just beat the crap out of 'em.

maybe put the nut on it, crank it down a bunch, drive it around for awhile, then retorque 'em.

#13 Humble Nuto 53

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Posted 05 September 2005 - 03:53 AM

32 DOH's

:P i had to go crawl under and look just to be sure that wasnt some
photoshop imposter....

dang.


well, morgan if arch doesnt come give you a hand PM me and i will
(although what little credibility i may have had...)

#14 oddcomp

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Posted 05 September 2005 - 09:52 AM

hmm of all the tie rod ends ihave replaced and not had that problem
then i suggest the following

spray said taper /hose it down with some form of lubrication
or.. go get about 2-5 lbs of dry ice stick the tie rod end in the cooler with it
that good ol -109f temp range will surely contract the metal and make it a tad smaller thus easier to put into old rusted parts

or you could keep beating on it and check to make sure they gave your the right parts.. after all its not like its 100 percent correct what the parts store tells you
:)

#15 Humble Nuto 53

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Posted 08 September 2005 - 01:59 AM

did you get this resolved?


mr.followup, paging mr.followup

#16 MorganM

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Posted 08 September 2005 - 10:35 AM

It's hard getting much done with the new baby. I havent even been out in the garage since last weekend :( I'll follow up after I get out there again; maybe this weekend....

#17 MorganM

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Posted 09 September 2005 - 01:05 PM

Managed to sneak out into the garage for a few minutes.

I was able to pull the tie rod end through the knuckle with the nut. Guess I was just paranoid after stripping out the ball joint nut.

Ball joints are wrong size as far as I can tell. I put an old one upto one of the new ones; definatly a difference. Very minor but definatly a difference. Going to get me a set of genuine Subaru ones methinks.

#18 stephenw22

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Posted 09 September 2005 - 01:45 PM

For tie-rods going into the knuckle, here's one thing I've done in the past:

I stick the end of the tie rod into the knuckle as far as I can. Then, I get a jack underneath the tie rod and give it some pressure. Finally, I find an old chunk of pipe, an old socket, or some kind of spacer w/ a hole in the middle. I slip it over the exposed threads and pound the knuckle down onto the tie rod.

As far as the ball joint goes, I've never had any problems getting it into the control arm. Usually, it's a pain to get out (I need to use a gear puller, usually), but the new one just slides right in.

#19 Humble Nuto 53

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Posted 09 September 2005 - 04:57 PM

i bought ball joints at bumper to bumper and not had problem...


first pair were 12.00 each

three years later i think they were 18.00

#20 Numbchux

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Posted 09 September 2005 - 08:22 PM

I got mine @ Napa, again...no problem

#21 MorganM

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Posted 12 September 2005 - 08:14 AM

I have a set of genuine Subaru ones on the way. $50 shipped to my door; that's with a 20% discount. I'm done messing around; time to just get ones I know fit, will las 100,00 miles, and be done with it.

#22 MorganM

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Posted 19 September 2005 - 09:57 AM

did you get this resolved?


mr.followup, paging mr.followup


Finally had 4 hours to spare in the garage yesterday. Wife and baby were at a craft fair so my son and I played in the garage.

Knuckle with new bearings on strut. Poped new ball joint into the knuckle and cranked down onto control arm. Tie rod end on knuckle. Pounded CV stube into bearings. Slipped DOJ onto tranny. Pounded on hub/rotor assembly. Pulled CV through knuckle and hub assembly with the castle nut. Bolted on caliper. Reattached control arm to main crossmeber. Tightend everything down and called it a day.

Now I just have to pound out and pound in new bearings on the other knuckle and reassemble as described above. Then my front running gear will be done.... when? Who knows :( Hard finding enough free time to get out there long enough to actually do anything. The way this is going my motor swap plans for this winter are looking abysmal. I'm having a hard time even finding an EJ22 worth pulling :(

#23 MorganM

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Posted 03 October 2005 - 08:07 AM

did you get this resolved?


mr.followup, paging mr.followup


Otherside is full assembled now also. New bearings and ball joints in a newer knuckle off a Loyale I parted out last winter. Just need to do a double check of everything, put the tires on, and do some test runs. Always a little scary driving something you've had complelty apart... again :-p Should be up and running fully for the junkyard day this coming SAT.




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