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rear wheel bearing (help, drive axle stuck)


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9 replies to this topic

#1 Martin

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Posted 22 September 2003 - 08:40 PM

so when out for a drive today, i started hearing some noise coming from the back of the car. sounds like a bit of whining and squealing. when i got home it started tinkering around a bit and without even having the rear wheel off the ground, i feels like it has some lateral play. so i'm thinking that the bearings are shot... how much time does replacing this take on an 87 4wd gl wagon. and what is the procedure for it... i've only done it on a 2wd, i guess i need to pull the rear doj? is there enough play so that just the pin has to be punched out? thanks in advance, need to get started on this quick because i need to log some milage soon.

*edit* does anyone know if this model will have 2 bearings or 1 sealed one?

#2 Martin

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Posted 22 September 2003 - 11:09 PM

is this tool mandatory? anything else that might work also to remove it? any idea on what suggested shop time on this job is?

#3 Martin

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Posted 22 September 2003 - 11:20 PM

p.s. hey tim, do you have a link to the tool on that site? can't seem to find it. also for an 87 it seems to be just showing 1 rear bearing... what year did you just work on?

#4 biffbradford

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Posted 22 September 2003 - 11:26 PM

You can get that inner ring out with a ballpeen hammer and a large punch.

jw
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#5 Martin

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Posted 24 September 2003 - 02:19 AM

anyone know what suggested shop time for this job is? want to know how early i might have to get going on this.

#6 incognito

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Posted 24 September 2003 - 02:36 AM

Its so easy, and its worth the time/effort as opposed to shop work.

It would probably take them an hour or two for the rear bearings.

If you do take it to the shop, its a good idea have them replace the brake pads and turn the drums/rotors since they are already coming off anyway.

#7 Martin

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Posted 24 September 2003 - 07:27 PM

so now i have the theory behind this bearing job, and understand why it is said to be easy. however, the rear doj will not budge on the bearing side. got the pin out, and it supposedly this should just slide off like the other side. but it seems like it's pretty seized/rusted on there. try spraying some liquid wrench in there, as well as beating with hammer and even heating it up with a blow torch, but so far it hasn't even moved enough that the pin location is different. what to do??

#8 Martin

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Posted 24 September 2003 - 10:19 PM

that best case scenario of tap and turn was used ages ago. it was also done by 2 people, so the other end of the axle was getting pulled and turned while another person was hitting it. it definitely didn't seem like it would have the same amount of movement that the inner side had, what could be causing binding if there is any. will it come off best at certain angles? even with the pin out, i'm sure the binding wouldn't really be a problem cause the whole axle is coming off, but the rust seems to be a serious issue. i am about getting ready (because i dont really have the time to deal with this right now) to find some shop that will quote and guarantee me some hourish time quote and hopefully be able to use my own bearing and get them to do it even if it takes them 6 hrs, and just end up paying for that 1 hr of labour. i just know that when i take it there it will fall off for them after all of my attempts to remove it, i will have finally "loosened" it for them, haha.

#9 Martin

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Posted 25 September 2003 - 09:23 PM

Well I finally gave in and paid the shop for about 1.3 hrs of labour, luckily I found a place that would let me use my own parts. It still took them about 2.5 hrs to get it down and eventually it came off with an air hammer. I wish I had air tool at home, haha.

#10 Martin

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Posted 26 September 2003 - 01:40 AM

yep, i will just have to make sure i keep needing excuses to get those apart. on a positive not when i was getting more play by undoing the bottom bolt for the strut, and some bolts on the diff for a little play, they were nice and easy.... hmmm lsd... lol.




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