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Rear Diff Axle stub removal-Socket? Q, Zap, Corky?


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21 replies to this topic

#1 Svengouli7

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Posted 23 September 2003 - 09:19 AM

Hi guys. Working on swapping 3.7lsd/3.9-

Looks like 1st order of business is to get the stubs off- I have an external torx e-12 but shes too fat to squeeze inside the stub- What socket/where'd ya get it to unscrew these boogers? Looks like a 9mm 1/4 drive deep might work (if my garage was clean enough to find one arrrrgggg) 5/32 just doesn't grip..

#2 Qman

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Posted 23 September 2003 - 10:02 AM

Actually you need an E10 socket I believe. I think Zap has one. You should get the deep one. Generally it is used for air bag repair and replacement. I got mine directly from Snap-on truck. You should be able to order on-line if you don't have access to a truck.

#3 baccaruda

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Posted 23 September 2003 - 11:01 AM

heh. i ambushed the snap on guy to get mine too. I mighy tsuggest grounding 1mm-2mm off the end of the socket as it's beveled and I felt it affected the grip a little bit.

#4 soobme

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Posted 23 September 2003 - 11:18 AM

Is "E-10" the Snap-On part #, or just the type of socket? (I need to get one too)

#5 "EJ"

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Posted 23 September 2003 - 11:33 AM

Try to record how many shims are on each side of the housing when you finally get it apart... I tore mine apart acouple of months ago an am getting ready to rebuild but can't remember how many shims go on each side. Thanks..

#6 baccaruda

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Posted 23 September 2003 - 12:21 PM

E-10 is the torx socket size. make sure you don't buy a bit instead of the socket :P

#7 Dr. RX

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Posted 23 September 2003 - 12:46 PM

OK, here is the tool, Snap-on TORX E-10

#8 jmr052

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Posted 23 September 2003 - 12:48 PM

Get it from Snap-on. You can find cheaper but most are beveled in shape and won't fit down the hole. E-10 female torx socket. With the socket you will need a small extension for 1/4 drive. I tried to use this and stripped the heck out of the heads. Well, one stripped and the other sheared off. Q-man cleaned up the resulting mess. I am hesitant to try again.

Jay

#9 Svengouli7

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Posted 23 September 2003 - 11:04 PM

thanks guys. Me and Zap dug through his stuff, no dice.

FYI Sears is a no go as suggested by some (they do suprise me once in a while what they do have) also,
the "E" probably stands for external (female sockets) regular male star bits seem to be refered to as "T"-number/size

Ken if you see Zap and can spare yours for the job it would be great

#10 ezapar

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Posted 24 September 2003 - 02:58 PM

:brow:

I found it. Attached to the socket wrench. . . I'll be home about 6 or so. Can help you then, the tools are yours when you need them, call me.

#11 "EJ"

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Posted 24 September 2003 - 08:05 PM

hey Eric do you know how many shims go on each side of the LSD housing? I know its split like 3 on one side and 2 on the other but I am not sure which side gets which amount. Maybe I'll just throw it together and see if I get allot of noise, if I do then I'll switch'm....:banghead:

#12 GLCraig

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Posted 24 September 2003 - 08:35 PM

The number and thickness of the shims will verry from diff to diff. You will need to get the info from a FSM to determine how many and what thickness of shims you'll need.

#13 "EJ"

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Posted 25 September 2003 - 08:01 AM

Thanks, I was thinking it would be differant for each diff. Now if someone who has a FSM could check it out for me. That would be swell...

#14 Svengouli7

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Posted 25 September 2003 - 09:30 AM

Woulda been done last night but ended up having to drill out the holes to widen them up a bit.

EJ- the side seal carriers Andy included with this have 1 shim on 1 side, 2 on the other. Looks like each diff could be different.

Thanks again for the socket use Zap.

#15 ezapar

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Posted 25 September 2003 - 10:37 AM

Drill out holes??? Huh?
I'm around this afternoon if you wanna call me after work to help with completion.




EJ. I really can't recall how many on each side. As I was taking it apart and reassembling it, I kept all the left stuff together and all the right side stuff together so I wouldn't space any parts. My memory is too bad to try to keep track of all those similar looking parts.

EZ

#16 Mike W

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Posted 25 September 2003 - 10:42 AM

Yeah drill the holes out...as in open up the ring gears holes to like 7/16 or something like that. I had to do the same on mine way back when. Sure surprised Qman too. Apparently some years or runs of diffs had smaller sized bolts for the ring gear.

#17 Sweet82

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Posted 25 September 2003 - 11:13 AM

Does anyone know what year and what model diffs don't need any drilling. I have an 82 Hatch?

I'm wondering if one year is easier than another year to swap.

Thanks,
Glenn
82 Hatch, transforming.........:temper:
01 Forester, jealous............:madder:

#18 Mike W

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Posted 25 September 2003 - 01:31 PM

Well I can tell you that my open diff came from a '87 Hatchback and the LSD came from a '85 or '86 RX 4 door. That combination resulted in me having to float a reamer through to open the holes up. No big deal, it's soft steel and easy to keep the holes on location.

#19 Svengouli7

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Posted 25 September 2003 - 07:04 PM

On the money Mike. I.D. on the LSD thru holes to ring gear were like 10mm per el cheapo dial caliper.. thread width on the bolts to be used from the 3.9 were 10.5/11?? Wierd.

Mr Qman mentions this in the USRM article. BTW, nice feature!

Zap, I'm thinking I owe you a fresh drill bit (from your helicoil pack)... It was just the right size at the moment of need and Mr Svengouli had just a few too many to cruise out for one :drunk:

#20 Dr. RX

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Posted 25 September 2003 - 08:15 PM

I have always used the bolts that came with the ring gear, I believe the threads are the same. I'll have to check on the next one I do, I have one waiting till that person gets a good donor 3.90.

#21 "EJ"

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Posted 25 September 2003 - 08:52 PM

My memory is going also, you must be getting old. I took mine apart the same way but then dumped everything together in a zip lock bag so I wouldn't lose any of the parts. Thanks for the help.

#22 Svengouli7

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Posted 25 September 2003 - 09:17 PM

Per the USRM article,

" Make sure that you use the side caps that match the ring gear.

Very important as this will maintain your gear mesh.

If it isn't the right set you run the risk of getting noise and mismatch"
Sounds like you only need the #/shim placement of your 3.9 EJ, don't need to remember the set up for the 3.7

Zap, Im about to grind swing by if'n your sttin around




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