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Timing Belt change


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20 replies to this topic

#1 rweddy

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Posted 20 September 2005 - 10:05 PM

I am getting ready to change my timing belt on my 96 2.2 legacy outback, am I missing anything?



Thanks

Q Part Number Description

1.00 21200AA072 Thermostat
1.00 21236AA010 Thermostat Gasket

1.00 21111AA007 Water Pump
1.00 21114AA051 Water Pump Gasket

1.00 13028AA102 Timing Belt

2.00 806732150 Camshaft Oil Seal
2.00 806946030 Camshaft Housing O-Ring

1.00 806733030 Oil Seal (Crank)
1.00 806919050 O-Ring (Oil Pump)

1.00 13586AA041 Sealing Belt Cover No2
1.00 13581AA050 Sealing Belt Cover R
1.00 13594AA041 Front Cover Seal
1.00 807615081 WP Bypass Hose
1.00 806923060 O-Ring (not sure)

#2 BigMattyD

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Posted 20 September 2005 - 10:29 PM

I do not think you need the camshaft cover o-rings.


If I recall properly, those are for the back end of the engine where there is a cover over the back end of the camshaft. You just need the oil seals.

You also may not need the timing belt cover gaskets. Mine were in good shape, I just cleaned them up.

I did the same job in January, any Q's, feel free to send a private message.

Matt

#3 rweddy

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Posted 20 September 2005 - 11:07 PM

I do not think you need the camshaft cover o-rings.


If I recall properly, those are for the back end of the engine where there is a cover over the back end of the camshaft. You just need the oil seals.

You also may not need the timing belt cover gaskets. Mine were in good shape, I just cleaned them up.

I did the same job in January, any Q's, feel free to send a private message.

Matt


Thanks!
I think I have all the belt cover gaskets.

1.00 13586AA041 Sealing Belt Cover No2
1.00 13581AA050 Sealing Belt Cover R
1.00 13594AA041 Front Cover Seal

Am I missing any?

#4 johnnyk

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Posted 20 September 2005 - 11:21 PM

Im going to invest in the standard issue flywheel tool
just to make sure the crank pully it where it needs to be


Thanks!
I think I have all the belt cover gaskets.

1.00 13586AA041 Sealing Belt Cover No2
1.00 13581AA050 Sealing Belt Cover R
1.00 13594AA041 Front Cover Seal

Am I missing any?



#5 svxpert

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Posted 21 September 2005 - 02:07 PM

<<I do not think you need the camshaft cover o-rings.
If I recall properly, those are for the back end of the engine where there is a cover over the back end of the camshaft. You just need the oil seals.>>

on the passenger side of the engine, the cam cover o-rings are in the rear. the drivers side, there in the front. both are easily accessable, just 3 bolts. you should replace these while your in there. there only a few $$.

#6 avk

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Posted 22 September 2005 - 09:51 AM

The two identical camshaft O-rings sit under the camshaft cover on the back of the right head (where oil feed for the turbo would be), and behind the camshaft support on the left head. It's probably a good idea to do them: the right one is easy, and the left one is only a few bolts away while you're in there. I plan to do that, and also want to get a new crank bolt and the Woodruff key. Plus there are two obscure L-shaped rubber pieces by the oil pump and by the water pump that are probably a part of the timing cover seal. If you have an AT and plan to remove the radiator then new trans. cooler hoses would be a good idea too.

#7 rweddy

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Posted 22 September 2005 - 10:46 AM

The two identical camshaft O-rings sit under the camshaft cover on the back of the right head (where oil feed for the turbo would be), and behind the camshaft support on the left head. It's probably a good idea to do them: the right one is easy, and the left one is only a few bolts away while you're in there. I plan to do that, and also want to get a new crank bolt and the Woodruff key. Plus there are two obscure L-shaped rubber pieces by the oil pump and by the water pump that are probably a part of the timing cover seal. If you have an AT and plan to remove the radiator then new trans. cooler hoses would be a good idea too.

Thanks for the help! My car is a Manual and this is my first time on a newer subaru.

#8 grossgary

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Posted 22 September 2005 - 11:07 AM

get the cam tool. it's to hold the cam sprocket while you loosen the cam pulley bolt. it's a single bolt and plenty of people on the board have ruined items trying to keep that sprocket from turning while removing the bolt or not tigthening it enough and coming off for the same reason. i did it without that tool a couple weeks ago on a 2.2, i will never do that again. it was annoying and difficult. the tool would have made things much easier.

#9 jib

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Posted 22 September 2005 - 11:48 AM

Do you believe buying the cam tool makes sense, if one has an impact wrench to remove the (nasty) bolt?


Jack

#10 rweddy

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Posted 22 September 2005 - 11:50 AM

get the cam tool. it's to hold the cam sprocket while you loosen the cam pulley bolt. it's a single bolt and plenty of people on the board have ruined items trying to keep that sprocket from turning while removing the bolt or not tigthening it enough and coming off for the same reason. i did it without that tool a couple weeks ago on a 2.2, i will never do that again. it was annoying and difficult. the tool would have made things much easier.


I was told that these could be losed up before you take the belt off? Can't you do this the same way you do the crank pully with the car in gear or a screwdriver in the flywheel?

#11 cheetah8799

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Posted 22 September 2005 - 01:45 PM

I agree that the cam tool is a definate big help doing this job. When I did mine, with my brother's help, it was a major pain to get apart without the proper tool...

#12 svxpert

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Posted 22 September 2005 - 02:06 PM

<<Do you believe buying the cam tool makes sense, if one has an impact wrench to remove the (nasty) bolt? Jack >>

i haven't seen a impact wrench small enough to fit in between the radiator and engine. have you?

#13 AlpineRaven

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Posted 25 September 2005 - 06:56 AM

<<Do you believe buying the cam tool makes sense, if one has an impact wrench to remove the (nasty) bolt? Jack >>

i haven't seen a impact wrench small enough to fit in between the radiator and engine. have you?


I STRONGLY suggest you to remove the radiator!!!!!!!! otherwise one tiny mistake the core is damaged!!!!!!!!!!! learnt from experience mate!..


An trick is to do that as i did it with mine yesterday is to - you'll need a 22mm socket, a 1/2 inch ratchet, and a breaker bar, set the socket to undo (lefty loosie righty tighty ;) ) and wedge the breaker bar over the ratchet and against the ground or chassis. just hit the starter to turn over the engine once, but not start it. you can disconnect the ignitor if you dont feel comfortable.

that will loosen the bolt...

Thats if you don't have the correct tool.
Cheers
AP

#14 svxpert

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Posted 25 September 2005 - 08:17 AM

<<I STRONGLY suggest you to remove the radiator!!!!!!!! otherwise one tiny mistake the core is damaged!!!!!!!!!!! learnt from experience mate!..>>


:rolleyes:
no reason to remove the radiator. your just doing extra work. that will only give you more problems if you don't know the proper way to bleed the system of air.

#15 Scottbaru

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Posted 25 September 2005 - 08:36 AM

On other cars I've had good luck protecting the radiator with cardboard or plywood. The starter trick works, but be very careful, and do disable the ignition. And if you don't get it on the first hit of the starter, don't hit it again in the same spot or you'll burn the starter.

I hope anyone getting this far into their engine knows how to burp the coolant, although I'll be trying it for the first time this fall. Standby for dumb questions...

I've been active on several car forums for the last decade, and lists of parts needed for a job are some of the most useful posts. Thanks! Workarounds for difficulties and special tools are also helpful, and pictures are a huge help. Good post.

#16 rweddy

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Posted 25 September 2005 - 09:38 AM

An trick is to do that as i did it with mine yesterday is to - you'll need a 22mm socket, a 1/2 inch ratchet, and a breaker bar, set the socket to undo (lefty loosie righty tighty ;) ) and wedge the breaker bar over the ratchet and against the ground or chassis. just hit the starter to turn over the engine once, but not start it. you can disconnect the ignitor if you dont feel comfortable.

that will loosen the bolt...

Thats if you don't have the correct tool.
Cheers
AP


Thanks! I am concerned with the cam bolt, for the crank this is a great trick.
Does anyone know if you can get the cam bolts off by keeping the belt in place, locking the engine in place, then breaker bar them off?? Anyone??

Thanks

#17 svxpert

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Posted 25 September 2005 - 10:29 AM

<<I hope anyone getting this far into their engine knows how to burb the coolant, although I'll be trying it for the first time this fall. Standby for dumb questions...>>

(hope) is the key word. if you look at the other timing belt post, you might see why! :clap:

#18 BigMattyD

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Posted 25 September 2005 - 09:18 PM

I think it is best to remove the radiator. It is very easy to remove, and gives you a lot of extra space. Additionally, if you are a smart cookie and are replacing the radiator hoses at the same time you are replacing the water pump and thermostat, it is no big deal.

As for the cam bolts, I did not have any trouble removing mine with a socket, breaker bar, and rubber strap wrench around the sprocket. I am sure there is a possibility that yours will be stuck in place, but might as well try the easy option first. If you don't have a strap wrench, go ahead and buy the (overpriced) special tool if you want. I'm sure it will work great.

Matt

#19 DerFahrer

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Posted 25 September 2005 - 10:43 PM

I was told that these could be losed up before you take the belt off? Can't you do this the same way you do the crank pully with the car in gear or a screwdriver in the flywheel?


That's the only way I loosen cam bolts.

#20 cerquozzi

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Posted 15 June 2009 - 05:50 PM

I am getting a jumped belt on a 2003 Legacy, do I need to change tensioner or am I missing something ?

#21 grossgary

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Posted 15 June 2009 - 06:14 PM

wowsers ancient thread batman! someone give this newbie a prize for using the search function, woo hoo!!!

I am getting a jumped belt on a 2003 Legacy, do I need to change tensioner or am I missing something ?

what do you mean "you are getting a jumped belt"?

yes the tensioners do go bad, best to replace them on an interference and 100,000 mile timing change interval engine.

if the belt jumps on this motor it will likely sustain bent valves, so you could have significant damage. hope that's not the case for you.




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