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Loyale stalled, won't restart
Posted 04 October 2005 - 07:50 AM
Posted 04 October 2005 - 11:31 AM
Have you checked for spark yet and fuel delivery?
Posted 04 October 2005 - 02:31 PM
Posted 04 October 2005 - 02:52 PM
To check for spark I would get a spare sparkplug and place it in one of the plugwires on a good engine ground point. Then see if the sparkplug fires while you try to start it.
Posted 04 October 2005 - 07:24 PM
Just my best guess......
Posted 04 October 2005 - 09:04 PM
Posted 05 October 2005 - 10:25 AM
Both timing belts only have about 5500 miles on them, but I will check that tomorrow. What difference would it make if the passenger side belt broke? Is that screw on the rotor itself or is it underneath or someplace?
If the passenger side timing belt broke, it would just run like crap on the two drivers side cylinders. If the drivers side breaks, the distributor stops too, and it won't run at all. In my experience, the drivers side one always goes first.
The screw is on the side of the rotor holding it to the shaft -- some of them don't have them, but I think all the later EA82's do.
Posted 05 October 2005 - 02:19 PM
Anyway, look for fouled plugs.
Posted 07 October 2005 - 04:43 AM
Posted 07 October 2005 - 04:52 AM
Posted 07 October 2005 - 06:36 AM
Overfilling can flood the pistons, and cause the oil to foam. Oil sits below the crankshaft not in it. If the oil makes contact with the crankshaft, it becomes airated. Once the oil has become so agitated that it has foamed (airated) it can no longer be sufficently pumped, and therefor no longer acts like oil. The oil pump cannot pump air.
Hope you didnt waste the engine.
Posted 07 October 2005 - 10:49 PM
Posted 08 October 2005 - 12:39 AM
Posted 08 October 2005 - 09:09 PM
update = spark plugs are firing, not fouled, running started motor without spark plugs didn't pump out anything
Posted 14 October 2005 - 04:07 AM
edit--Could be that the fuse, or fuseable link went also. Not sure which fuse or link it would be though, as I'm not real familar with the EA-82 cars. end edit---
Posted 14 October 2005 - 04:29 AM
Posted 14 October 2005 - 04:36 AM
Wonder if maybe the injector died. Just guessing there.....
Posted 14 October 2005 - 02:37 PM
If no codes, try a little ether in the throttle body and see if it kicks over then. If you can smell ether coming out of the tail pipe, but still no sputtering, it seems like its some spark/ecu problem, not a fuel problem then.
Posted 14 October 2005 - 07:24 PM
If the engine doesn't fire with the starter fluid then you need to check the compression on both sides of the engine. One of the timing belts may have broken.
Posted 14 October 2005 - 08:17 PM
Ok to re-cap,check timing belt on drivers side....it always goes! check fuel and spark. If all of that is ok....unplug the mass airflow meter and try cranking. Like I said I can't remember if it needs a mass airflow reading for starting injection or not, but it's worth a try. As for that, I have no more ideas. The only time mine has ever just quit was when the timing belt gave out. Well check that stuff out...let us know....we'll figure it out.
Ya I meant drivers side!
Posted 14 October 2005 - 10:48 PM
you mean driver's side for us - my family has owned an '85 since new (I converted it to FI last year, and have done most of the maitnence myself since I was in 5th grade), and I doubt the timing belt went like that, but it is a possibility
Passenger side timing belt...ALWAYS GOES!! check that belt first. Easiest way is to pull the distributor cap off, have someone crank the engine and see if it spins.
Supposedly the engine runs for about 5 seconds and dies with a disconnected MAF - I would check the throttle body and all to see if oil was forced into the intake and plumbing - that could cause this sort of problem
I would also check the coolant sensor for the computer (right under T-stat and near oil fill tube - green connector) - that can also cause a no-start/hard start
The critical electrical/FI components for a start - working Crank Angle Sensor (distribuitor), Working fuel injector, Working computer, Working coil, Working ignition amplifier (ignitor - that transistor below the ignition coil), working fuel pump - coolant sensor is not neccessary, but it is hard to start without it
This is in addition to the normal plugs, wires, etc. that all engines have
there is a good trouble shooting section in the second part of the EA 82 manual on this site it covers no-start conditions in GREAT detail
to make sure the oil is out of your cylinders, I would pull all plugs (note wires) and I would spray WD-40 or equiv into each of the holes (put a good amount in), wait a few minutes, and (with the ignition system disabled) crank the engine for a while, then put it all back together and try!! (don't forget to clean the plugs)
Posted 15 October 2005 - 06:42 AM
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