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using rear diff up front (T-case Conversion)


Scott in Bellingham
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HEY, WORKS GREAT, 1/2 ? THE FRONT AXLES, STOCK WORK FINE. i USED 2 CROSMEMBERS, ONE LIFTED, ONE PARTIAL(JUST FOR MOUNTING ENGINE IN REGULAR LOCATION) I CUT THE REAR MUSTACHE BAR TO FIT THE FRONT LIFTED CROSSMEMBER, WELD IT IN PLACE(INSTALL AXLES ONTO DIFF, POSISTION DIFF AND MUSTACHE BAR SO AXLES DONT RUB CROSSMEMBER) I ALSO WELD IN PLATES FROM FRONT OF CROSSMEMBER TO MUSTACHE BAR NEAR BOLT HOLES. THR BACK OF THE DIFF, A TUBE BRACKET FROM SIDE TO SIDE BETWEEN THE REAR FRONT LIFT BLOCKS"YOU SHOULD KNOW WHAT I MEAN YOU BUILD LIFTS" HOPE THIS HELPS.

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Scott,

 

 

It sounds like you will be extending your axles. trust me its not a good thing. They will work but your axles will be prone to snapping at any high angle. TRUST ME. Our first lift we developed (in order to correct the camber) we actually extended the front control arms about 3/8 of an inch. We'll sure enough it worked for fixing the camber it also worked on snapping front axles. If I were you I would drill a new hole in the output shaft from the rear axle stubs that is further out.

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I built a crossmember above the stock one to hold the engine, then built a tranny crossmember. I welded in a piece of the rear diff hanger to the stock crossmember, then cut the bushing loop off the diff "spider" and welded it to the tranny crossmember. I also welded a piece of 1x1 tubing to the "front" piece, and too the crossmember to more stability. I have been running the front axles in the stock rear hole, they have been like this for a couple years now, with no problems at all. Actually the only time I had a problem with a front axle was when the front knuckle came off the strut, and I goosed the throttle, shearing the ball joint and pulling the whole axle/hug/knuckle assembly away from wher eit should be. This is what my set up looks like:

 

31frontdiff1.jpg

Here is the piece of rear diff hanger, and the 1x1 tubing on the stock crossmember.

 

31frontdiff2.jpg

Here is the "rear" of the front diff, my tranny crossmember is a piece of 2x4" tube welded between the two inner radius rod mount lift blocks.

 

31frontdiff3.jpg

This is a side shot through the left fender well, shows the relation of the tranny and diff. I do have to remove the front diff to change fluids in it and the tranny, but thats not too big of a deal, for me.

 

Hope this all helps out some.

 

If you need some more details I have some 2304x1728 1.6meg pics that show A LOT of details, and can take snaps of other angles and whot not if it helps ya out.

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putting a tcase in an ea82 is a royal PITA. I did it but I had to move the crossmember 3" forward, then make custom a-arms that swung back. The stock ea82 control arm doesnt sweep back, putting the axle over the inner bushing. This means youd need like 10" of lift to have enough clearance there. An ea81 arm sweeps back and the axle goes down beside the bushing.

 

With the tcase mod (at least in my case) the axles are actually pushed further into the cups than stock. This because the diff hangs a bit lower in relation to the suspension compared to the stock setup. The lower diff makes the axles straighter at rest, and therefore closer together at the diff. Also, the change in this geometry causes the axle to push in even further towards the diff as full extension is reached.

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putting a tcase in an ea82 is a royal PITA. I did it but I had to move the crossmember 3" forward, then make custom a-arms that swung back. The stock ea82 control arm doesnt sweep back, putting the axle over the inner bushing. This means youd need like 10" of lift to have enough clearance there. An ea81 arm sweeps back and the axle goes down beside the bushing.

 

With the tcase mod (at least in my case) the axles are actually pushed further into the cups than stock. This because the diff hangs a bit lower in relation to the suspension compared to the stock setup. The lower diff makes the axles straighter at rest, and therefore closer together at the diff. Also, the change in this geometry causes the axle to push in even further towards the diff as full extension is reached.

IF I DECIDE TO BUILD ANOTHER T-CASE ROO, IT WILL BE EA81 STYLE DUE TO THE ABOVE. EA81 LINES EVERYTHING UP EASILY AND LOOKS REALLY GOOD. MY FIRST ONE HAD THE T-CASE UP IN THE FLOOR BEHIND THE FRONT SEATS. I CUT OUT THE FLOOR, AMD LIFTED THE DRIVESHAFT HUMP SO I WOULD STILL HAVE ALMOST AS MUCH CLEARANCE AS I DID BEFORE THE T-CASE. BU AFTER DOING THAT, MY REAR SEATS WOULDNT FOLD UP, BUT THE ARM REST BESIDE THE DRIVER SEAT WAS AT THE RIGHT HEIGHT:). MAN I MISS MY 81:(

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CAPS UNLOCK!

Any pics of how your finished driveshaft hump sheetmetal work turned out?

 

On Nissan trucks the R180 diffs are mounted with a mini-mustache bar with rubber bushings. So has anyone incorporated that bar into their mounts? I'm thinking that the bushings might give the diff a little wiggle room and possibly reduce axle braekage in some situations.

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CAPS UNLOCK!

Any pics of how your finished driveshaft hump sheetmetal work turned out?

 

On Nissan trucks the R180 diffs are mounted with a mini-mustache bar with rubber bushings. So has anyone incorporated that bar into their mounts? I'm thinking that the bushings might give the diff a little wiggle room and possibly reduce axle braekage in some situations.

WORK COMPUTER, IT WONT LET ME UN-CAP

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