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Guest Message by DevFuse
 

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92 Legacy Touring Wagon: Automatic NO 3RD OR 4TH


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34 replies to this topic

#26 nipper

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Posted 28 June 2006 - 03:37 PM

get one with a warrenty

nipper

#27 NuclearBacon

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Posted 28 June 2006 - 10:37 PM

get one with a warrenty


.....if you can find one....

.........for under 1200 bucks :)

#28 nipper

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Posted 28 June 2006 - 10:50 PM

i meant used


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#29 NuclearBacon

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Posted 29 June 2006 - 04:49 AM

i meant used

totally dude, i didnt mean to disrespect :)

#30 NuclearBacon

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Posted 16 August 2006 - 03:59 PM

The wagon has about 2000 miles on it now... and it ROCKS MY SOCKS! just thought i'd give an update ;)

mmmmm 5MT

#31 black93gthatch

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Posted 03 January 2010 - 06:05 PM

i have a 94 turbo wagon AT and its doing the samething, i used to occationally get the thing when i put the car in drive while it was running it would stall out and messed with it for a lil bit rocked the car with some trottle and i got it to work. But like i said its been a couple of times that it did it. 1st and 2nd are fine no slipping and there isn't 3 and four but.. when i let off the revs drop down like the car is in drive

#32 Log1call

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Posted 03 January 2010 - 09:31 PM

Gee you guys, you are all running scared of autos and they are really pretty simple to overhaul... cheap too if you only have to pay for parts and oil.

I am a mechanic but I do autos in my country workshop with no manuals, no special gear other than a few bits of threaded rod and steel plates to compress clutch plate spirngs and some nice clean metal cleaning trays.

I've done all sorts of makes and models and I tell you, they are generally cheaper than gearboxes that have blown up.

How cheaper? .Well first off, with a manual box you have to do clutches more often than you ever have to do an auto, then when the manual breaks, it breaks... gears! All the autos do is wear out the clutches. Most of the problems with the early 4eats have been sorted now and they do up for the cost of clutches, one brake band, a gasket and seal kit and the oil. I often don't even get the torque convertors flushed(on the advice of an auto specialist) but just run oil through it as I'm flushing the trans cooler. It's pretty rare for the gears to be badly worn but if they are I get second-hand ones and get the torque convertor flushed... It still comes out cheaper than doing bearings, synchros and seals on a manual... and then there is still the clutch to do!

Autos are just like everything else... take it apart carefully... completely apart... every tiny bit of it. Lay it all out in order as you dismantle it. Take photos or get diagrams if you are not sure where anything comes from. Clean every part and inspect it carefully for all the standard signs of wear... wear(obviously), heat, fatige cracks, warpage. Asses the damage and price parts. If everything looks alright and the price is going to be right clean every part again just as you are putting the part back into the trans. So, you clean the main case and put it on a clean surface, you clean the rear clutch housing and fit new clutches(all soaked in oil), clean and fit the springs and piston and fit them with new seals. Fit the rear clutch. Clean the next part, bearings I think, oil them and fit them. Clean the next clutch housing and fit new clutches too it, then clean the springs and piston. So it goes on. As long as every part is spotless and put back in the same way it came out the trans will work. Clean the valve body, lay it on a clean surface, clean and fit the valves one at a time. It's as simple as doing any work on any car. If you can do a motor you can do a trans... and for less probably.

Hey, I'll tell you something else. I have been told by the experts, and these were well respected auto specialists that I were getting parts off over the years, that they quite often just replace the clutch plates that need doing, that they leave the gaskets out of the valve bodies because they cause as much trouble as they are meant to prevent, that they almost never do a bearing or a bush... and they still discribe their work as overhauls. They still guarantee them. And you know what, they are right, nobody knows the difference. The trans go another several hundred thousand kilometres. Believe me, I work for long time regulars, I have overhauled transmissions of my own, they do go for a very long time.

Ah well, that's my rant for the day. It kind of annoys me to see the auto "experts" duping people and charging so much for so little expertise. Autos are hard to diagnose, but they are easy to overhaul.

Power to the people and have a happy this year everyone.

Edited by Log1call, 03 January 2010 - 09:36 PM.


#33 nipper

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Posted 03 January 2010 - 09:38 PM

Gee you guys, you are all running scared of autos and they are really pretty simple to overhaul... cheap too if you only have to pay for parts and oil.

I am a mechanic but I do autos in my country workshop with no manuals, no special gear other than a few bits of threaded rod and steel plates to compress clutch plate spirngs and some nice clean metal cleaning trays.

I've done all sorts of makes and models and I tell you, they are generally cheaper than gearboxes that have blown up.

How cheaper? .Well first off, with a manual box you have to do clutches more often than you ever have to do an auto, then when the manual breaks, it breaks... gears! All the autos do is wear out the clutches. Most of the problems with the early 4eats have been sorted now and they do up for the cost of clutches, one brake band, a gasket and seal kit and the oil. I often don't even get the torque convertors flushed(on the advice of an auto specialist) but just run oil through it as I'm flushing the trans cooler. It's pretty rare for the gears to be badly worn but if they are I get second-hand ones and get the torque convertor flushed... It still comes out cheaper than doing bearings, synchros and seals on a manual... and then there is still the clutch to do!

Autos are just like everything else... take it apart carefully... completely apart... every tiny bit of it. Lay it all out in order as you dismantle it. Take photos or get diagrams if you are not sure where anything comes from. Clean every part and inspect it carefully for all the standard signs of wear... wear(obviously), heat, fatige cracks, warpage. Asses the damage and price parts. If everything looks alright and the price is going to be right clean every part again just as you are putting the part back into the trans. So, you clean the main case and put it on a clean surface, you clean the rear clutch housing and fit new clutches(all soaked in oil), clean and fit the springs and piston and fit them with new seals. Fit the rear clutch. Clean the next part, bearings I think, oil them and fit them. Clean the next clutch housing and fit new clutches too it, then clean the springs and piston. So it goes on. As long as every part is spotless and put back in the same way it came out the trans will work. Clean the valve body, lay it on a clean surface, clean and fit the valves one at a time. It's as simple as doing any work on any car. If you can do a motor you can do a trans... and for less probably.

Hey, I'll tell you something else. I have been told by the experts, and these were well respected auto specialists that I were getting parts off over the years, that they quite often just replace the clutch plates that need doing, that they leave the gaskets out of the valve bodies because they cause as much trouble as they are meant to prevent, that they almost never do a bearing or a bush... and they still discribe their work as overhauls. They still gaurantee them. And you know what, they are right, nobody knows the difference. The trans go another several hundred thousand kilometres. Believe me, I work for long time regulars, I have overhauled transmissions of my own, they do go for a very long time.

Ah well, that's my rant for the day. It kind of annoys me to see the auto "experts" duping people and charging so much for so little expertise. Autos are hard to diagnose, but they are easy to overhaul.

Power to the people and have a happy this year everyone.


i've been saying that for years but no one listens. And with the autos giving the same MPG or within 1mpg differnce as manuals the old stalwart of lost power doesnt really apply. The clutch is a wear part, the longer you keep a manual the more you have to replace it. With an auto just change that fluid on time and it will keep going. When an auto goes bad it is usally clutch plates, no hard parts. When a manual goes bad, it is synchros and bearings.


nipper

#34 Log1call

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Posted 03 January 2010 - 10:22 PM

That's right Nipper. The new multi-speed autos with lock-up torque convertors get good milage and... I'd like to see anyone change as fast as an auto at full throttle.

#35 NuclearBacon

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Posted 25 February 2010 - 12:53 PM

i Would LOVE to see someone make a youtube post on taking the casing apart and putting it back together. Like i've always said, automatic transmissions are magic... but if someone showed me.. i'd be ready to that that $#@^% apart!!!

:)




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