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What are my options with this stuck bolt


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13 replies to this topic

#1 Joey Joe

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Posted 08 November 2005 - 01:27 PM

The back bolt on my turbo will not come undone. It is stuck and I cant get anything but a simple wrench to fit around it and that is not working at all. What have you guys used to get it undone. I am trying to do a head gasket job, it looks like it may be possible to take off the head without removing the turbo, is it? Also, the head gasket on that side is the one that is fine, the other one had oil water resinate in the pcv valve hose so I know it was that one that was leaking, if I can't get it undone I am not going to replace it. Is this a good idea or should I grind that mother off?

#2 rol1

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Posted 08 November 2005 - 01:53 PM

Before you get vicious with it get some Justice Bros.'s, JB80, like the can says "Twice as good as the other stuff" really.

Spray the nut down and take a long punch or screwdriver and give it a sharp rap. Not enough to bend metal, don't bugger-up the threads.

Then come back a hour or two later and give it a try.

Best stuff I've ever used, better than liquid wrench and wd40.

Oh yeah, if you have tried wd40, squirt it off with some breake cleaner, then use the JB80.

#3 grossgary

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Posted 08 November 2005 - 08:28 PM

wd40 sucks for this. liquid wrench and pb blaster are much better...though previous post person doesn't seem to like it. but it's still way better than wd40.

#4 Island Roo

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Posted 08 November 2005 - 09:59 PM

you can try to heat it with a propane torch, spray some good penetrating fluid on it and try it while warm, then if it doesnt come wait 1 hr and try again

#5 Snowman

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Posted 08 November 2005 - 10:04 PM

Does it look easy to replace if you have to grind or torch it off?

#6 WoodsWagon

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Posted 08 November 2005 - 10:39 PM

As the previous posters said, heat, penetrating oil, and whacking seem to make the difference. I've found penetreaing oil and whacking work well. The whacking seems to help the oil work its way into the threads. Good luck!

#7 wesley willis

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Posted 09 November 2005 - 04:44 AM

the adjuster screw on one of my back brakes was stuck, i soaked it with lps 2 and some "silicone dry" stuff... cleaned up the threads with a wire brush and worked at it with a wrench, eventually it loosened.

#8 rol1

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Posted 09 November 2005 - 09:23 AM

Liquid Wrench has been around forever, don't know if they have ever changed the way it's made.

Around 1970 to 71 my uncle bought some WD40. New stuff in a spraycan you just squirt on the nut , don't have to run those little coathanger wires to drip the Liquid Wrench on to the nut, cool chit man.

While twisting wrenches and humping dishwashers in an appliance store the boss came in with a can of LPS II, the medium body stuff, to try to get the squeek out off the used swampcooler motors' clutches. He had tried WD40 but the first formula messed with the motor varnish and he had to replace a couple.

The LPS didn't kill the motor windings, so it started getting wider use. Then WD40 came up with their dielectric formula.

A plumber first showed me JB80 on some rusted castiron plumbing fittings. You know, the 4" crap thats been rusting there for twenty years. I expected to hear "Well, I'll have to replace all this" just before I tell him to knock a hole in the cap and leave it open. But he had his big channel locks and a can of JB80, soaked it down and slapped it with the channel locks, went an got out his snake came back and it twists right off. I spent a hour talking to him about what all he's done with it.

I don't buy wd40 anymore, just what I find in the wrecks in the junkyard. Good for blasting the crap off some threads, but when I got some rusty trouble I go grab the JB80.

I feel safe saying that if you have used JB80, you won't speak so well about WD40.

#9 zyewdall

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Posted 09 November 2005 - 02:42 PM

I feel safe saying that if you have used JB80, you won't speak so well about WD40.


So where do you get JB80? Is there a particular auto store that carries it, as I don't think I've ever seen anything except liquid wrench and WD40. I want to give it a try.

My procedure for taking apart exhaust systems is to sawzall the pipes. Once it's off, I use the angle grinder to remove all the bolts from the flanges, then weld the pipe back together and buy new bolts for the flanges so I can reassemble it.... sort of rediculous huh?

#10 fj401968

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Posted 09 November 2005 - 03:53 PM

I haven't heard of the JB80 either sounds like good stuff.

I got turned on to PB Blaster several years ago and I really like it. ...much better than WD 40.

Tracy


So where do you get JB80? Is there a particular auto store that carries it, as I don't think I've ever seen anything except liquid wrench and WD40. I want to give it a try.

My procedure for taking apart exhaust systems is to sawzall the pipes. Once it's off, I use the angle grinder to remove all the bolts from the flanges, then weld the pipe back together and buy new bolts for the flanges so I can reassemble it.... sort of rediculous huh?



#11 fj401968

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Posted 09 November 2005 - 04:08 PM

Found this interesting link on PB Blaster vs. WD 40

http://www.grandamre.../lubricants.cfm

Tracy

I haven't heard of the JB80 either sounds like good stuff.

I got turned on to PB Blaster several years ago and I really like it. ...much better than WD 40.

Tracy



#12 xoomer

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Posted 09 November 2005 - 06:15 PM

you could beat it up.

#13 123c

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Posted 09 November 2005 - 06:22 PM

Anyone try the Sea Foam Deep Creep? I'm thinking about getting a can to try the next time I get a stuck bolt.

#14 MilesFox

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Posted 09 November 2005 - 07:56 PM

u-haul even uses a product, ina u-haul label can marked "u-haul penetrating lubricant" looks and smells just like pb blaster. i like to lube leaf springs on the trailers. they also use "super slick stuff" which has a lemony smell, its good for overhead door tracks. they also use permatex silicone spray

anyway i have 3 things to use at my disposal for various applications




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