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RX - Cam Bearings? Help!


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13 replies to this topic

#1 SuBrat84

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Posted 10 November 2005 - 03:39 PM

To rebuild or not to rebuild? That is the question. I probably should because of the fire but I want some opinions. Compression seems to be good. All 4 cyl ARE still moving.. The only thing that seems to be "wrong" is the 1/3 cam is not turning. No it's not the timing belt... the crank sprocket just spins across the teeth. the cam is STUCK. Valve cover is off but I'm not familiar with the EA82T yet so I don't know what I'm looking for? Should I do the rebuild for the experiance? What about copper gaskets (size?) to change CR for increased boost? (Got TD04, WRX Top Mount Intercooler, Boost Controller that I'm putting in) Tips? Suggestions for Intake?(Cone Filter in Fender?) Do I need a custom or WRX downpipe? I would like to go 2.5" Turbo Back? Point me in the right direction please? I would like to try and get this baby going before Thanksgiving!!! TIA!
-Eli-

#2 BoostedBalls

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Posted 10 November 2005 - 04:18 PM

I don't think the ea82 has cam bearings, I think the cam just slides inside the cam tower bores on a film of oil. If the cam is seized, I would pull the cam tower off to make sure that the valvetrain isn't causing this. Did you run this thing out of oil or something? I need more info.

The stock ea82t has la ow enough compression ratio (7.7:1) for some serious boost, I have ran 2 of these engines over 20psi on stock head gaskets with no problems. Timing is the key factor here, you can blow head gaskets on stock boost if your timing isn't right but not have any problems with much higher boost if your timing is reasonable. Most people like the copper head gaskets because they are strong, transfer heat better and are reusable. I prefer a set of stock style gaskets because they have fewer problems with water jacket leaks. I run copper gaskets in all of my boat and jetski engines because who cares if the water jackets leak, there is a whole lake full of it.

#3 BoostedBalls

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Posted 10 November 2005 - 04:21 PM

Oh, FIRE, I didn't see that at first. You probably either: cooked the layer of oil surrounding the cam journals to make a 'glue' or warped the cam tower to the point of locking the cam in place. Either way, I would take the cam tower off and give it a good visual with the cam out.

#4 Caboobaroo

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Posted 10 November 2005 - 06:09 PM

as for a rebuild, I would probably stay with the stock CR and OEM headgaskets for this being your first EA82T. The TD04 does require either a WRX downpipe or an aftermarket one for a WRX. I HAD a stock downpipe in mine but it was stupid looking so I went to NASIOC and picked myself up a Megan Racing bellmouth downpipe for $150 clams. Looks nice and no cat to worry about either:D Intake, I would do something custom. Custom to something that fits you. I myself modified an AEM cold air intake from a WRX for my RX. I had to lose my windshield washer bottle for it but I'm going to relocate it to another part of the engine compartment. Here are some pics of the downpipe and the intake I have:
intake inside engine compartment
intake inside fender
Megan Racing downpipe

#5 SuBrat84

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Posted 10 November 2005 - 06:55 PM

So then should I just replace this part?

Posted Image
Anyone got one for sale? this is the 1-3 side. I should probably get the stuff I need to make it work properly along with it?? Do I need gaskets? Cam Tower Gasket? Valve Cover Gasket? Help!
The car actually f'ing started up with this removed and no spark plugs in 1&3. I only let it run about 2 seconds... but WHOA. So yeah.. this is the part that is gumming up the operation.

#6 grossgary

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Posted 10 November 2005 - 08:36 PM

guess you already have it figured out, but no need for a full on rebuilt or headgaskets for a frozen cam. just replace the cam. can you tell if the bearing surfaces in the tower are scored? best to know for sure what happened before slapping new stuff on there and having it seize as well. i'd want to know that the cam seized and that it wasn't starved for oil. if it was starved for oil because that journal is clogged then a newly installed cam may end up doing the same thing.

so let us know how the inspection of the old part turned out.
post in the marketplace for this part.

#7 SuBrat84

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Posted 10 November 2005 - 08:37 PM

How freely should that cam spin inside that cam tower when it is off the motor like that? I can get it to move with my big ol' 7/8" wrench... but it's not easy... I tried some WD to loosen it up and it seemed to help a little.. but it does not move easy. Anyone know if I can just order new cam towers with performance cams in them? :brow:

#8 gravelRX

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Posted 10 November 2005 - 08:39 PM

I have a passengers side cam box with the cam still in it from a 87 Turbo car if your interested.

It's already off the car.

Make me an offer and I'll put it in a box and send it to you.

Jay

#9 BoostedBalls

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Posted 10 November 2005 - 08:57 PM

After washing it with hot soapy water- Heat that sucker up in your oven and it should come apart pretty easily, your cam may still be good but the aluminum casting is probaby toast. See if any aluminum comes out with the cam. Take the cam and roll it across a piece of glass and see if it is bent. I bet it's fine, might have a little bit of aluminum stuck to the journals but you can get that off by wetsanding with 1500 grit sandpaper.

If you get it out and it just looks like oil roasted it all together, I would stick some wire down any oil passages followed by some carb cleaner. Don't be afraid to use gray scotchbrite on the journals of the casting to get the old burnt oil off. Once everything is clean and the cam still won't spin somewhat freely but you know the cam is straight- replace the cam tower casting.
Most of those seals can be reused as long as they are pliable. Be carefull if you use RTV to seal them up, a small piece of that sh%t in your oil passages can kill an engine in no time. I only use that crap on coolant gaskets so there is no chance of it plugging off oil to my bearings.

#10 SuBrat84

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Posted 10 November 2005 - 09:03 PM

I have a passengers side cam box with the cam still in it from a 87 Turbo car if your interested.

It's already off the car.

Make me an offer and I'll put it in a box and send it to you.

Jay


Thoughts on this? Good Idea? Bad Idea? I'll probably get it if it will get me up and running good. I dont know about cam wear and stuff like that??

#11 canajun2eh

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Posted 10 November 2005 - 09:44 PM

I'd replace that cam and cam carrier. When the assembly is removed from the engine, the cam should spin freely. If yours doesn't, it's damaged and probably not worth repairing.

#12 SuBrat84

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Posted 10 November 2005 - 09:52 PM

I'd replace that cam and cam carrier. When the assembly is removed from the engine, the cam should spin freely. If yours doesn't, it's damaged and probably not worth repairing.


And how do you feel about me using a used assembly from an 87 on my 88?

#13 Caboobaroo

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Posted 10 November 2005 - 11:30 PM

I would use them in sets, just because of even wear from passenger side to driver side. So if you can get both sides, you should be fine. I've put different EA82 cams into othe motors without a hitch. As far as year differences, there aren't any that I know of.

#14 Snowman

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Posted 10 November 2005 - 11:53 PM

I would use them in sets, just because of even wear from passenger side to driver side. So if you can get both sides, you should be fine. I've put different EA82 cams into othe motors without a hitch. As far as year differences, there aren't any that I know of.


I would also say to use them in pairs, but primarily so you know for sure that the cams are the same. There have been a couple different camshaft designs in the EA82T over the years, and even if the donor engine is from a car of the same year as yours, the engine might be from a different year or something. Having a different camshaft on each side would NOT result in a happy engine.




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