Timing Belt, what else to change?

[jman11]

I have a 2000RS (SOHC), with about 120k miles in salty PA on the odometer. I don't think the timing belt has ever been changed; I got it after it should have been changed, but the V-belts look old and I can't see any evidence it has been changed. Apart from that she's in great shape, well maintained and looking good for another 120k.

 

So I've resolved to go ahead and change the timing belt. I'll also replace the V-belts and the water pump while I'm in there. The question is what else should I swap over? I don't mind getting back in there to have to do more work, I just don't

want something important breaking while I'm driving and taking the timing out. I have nightmares about pistons colliding with valves.

 

One question is the belt tensioner, I think I can get access to a press to reset it, but should I do this, or should I just suck it up and replace it with a new one? Also the idler pulleys, I've heard some people talk about these going and I really don't want them to. It also looks like it will cost over $100 to get the new ones, which seems alot for plastic pulleys, but hey what do I know.

 

Lastly, I've heard talk of cam and crank seals, but these seem like they would be a real pain to get out?

 

I've searched back through the archives and alot of opinion seems divided, so I'll probably just get the whole range again by re-asking, but what the hell.

[NoahDL88]

If it were me, i'd replace anything thats removable back there, seals, pullies, tensioners and whatnot. the water pump is a good idea, but the seals on the oil pump are also a good idea, the pump itself rarely goes bad.

 

I did everything but a idler pully once, and in Forsythe, Montana guess what let go on the highway.

[Gnuman]

I have a 2000RS (SOHC), with about 120k miles in salty PA on the odometer. I don't think the timing belt has ever been changed; I got it after it should have been changed, but the V-belts look old and I can't see any evidence it has been changed. Apart from that she's in great shape, well maintained and looking good for another 120k.

 

So I've resolved to go ahead and change the timing belt. I'll also replace the V-belts and the water pump while I'm in there. The question is what else should I swap over? I don't mind getting back in there to have to do more work, I just don't

want something important breaking while I'm driving and taking the timing out. I have nightmares about pistons colliding with valves.

 

One question is the belt tensioner, I think I can get access to a press to reset it, but should I do this, or should I just suck it up and replace it with a new one? Also the idler pulleys, I've heard some people talk about these going and I really don't want them to. It also looks like it will cost over $100 to get the new ones, which seems alot for plastic pulleys, but hey what do I know.

 

Lastly, I've heard talk of cam and crank seals, but these seem like they would be a real pain to get out?

 

I've searched back through the archives and alot of opinion seems divided, so I'll probably just get the whole range again by re-asking, but what the hell.

Oil pump seal and o-ring, tighten up the screws in the back of the oil pump, the pullys are actually metal, with sealed berrings. Get the CA spec belt as it has a longer interval between changes (better belt). Cam seals are optional. If you are replacing the WP, get a new thermostat and gasket to go with. YOu can push the tensioner in enough to put a pin into it (2mm) before taking it out so you do not have to reset it. I would reinforce the pin with a C clamp to be sure.

[eseiler]

My mechanic said he would replace the tensioner and 5 seals (along with the belt)....not sure which 5 he was talking about.

 

 

Damien

[BigMattyD]

I did the timing belt, etc in January, and I changed the t-belt, v-belts, water pump, one idler pulley which was damaged, and I removed and resealed the oil pump. I also changed the crankshaft and camshaft oil seals.

 

 

Replacing the timing belt, water pump, and idler pulley are really pretty easy. Removing and replacing the oil seals takes a lot of patience and effort, but it can be done. You need to replace at least the crankshaft oil seal if you plan to remove and reseal the oil pump.

 

The idler pulleys are relatively expensive, so I would not change them unless they were damaged. If the oil seals are not leaking, I don't think its necessary to change them either, but I did it anyway.

 

You should consider replacing the thermostat and coolant hoses, since they are cheap and you will probably be removing them anyway to get the radiator out of the way.

 

Matt