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Tired Engine


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6 replies to this topic

#1 Steelhead

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Posted 11 December 2005 - 06:49 PM

I have an '88 GL wagon w/ea82 engine @ 215K miles. The old girl still runs well but she's definitely tired. I'd like to rebuild her. I've done lots of vw rebuilds but never a subi.

I'd like to get another 200K miles. What approach do folks recommend?

#2 NoahDL88

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Posted 11 December 2005 - 06:55 PM

I have an '88 GL wagon w/ea82 engine @ 215K miles. The old girl still runs well but she's definitely tired. I'd like to rebuild her. I've done lots of vw rebuilds but never a subi.

I'd like to get another 200K miles. What approach do folks recommend?


An engine is and engine is an engine. The subie's are slightly different in how they come apart, the wrist pins and pistons come apart before the case, but other than that they are straight forward.

The three things i would check very carefully would be the bearing surfaces, the valve seats, and the cylinder walls. other than that use OEM parts if you can, they are certainly better than the aftermarket, especially for the head gaskets and the timing belts.

#3 Subieguy

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Posted 12 December 2005 - 02:01 AM

You can use Gates timing belts. They work great. I have used them on two ea-82 engines with no problems. I am sure you can find others on here that will agree with that. Oem Subaru head gaskets are a must. Best quality for head gaskets.

#4 grossgary

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Posted 12 December 2005 - 06:23 AM

i'd consider doing a complete reseal of the motor. replace every seal and gasket without touching the block if it's running okay now and the cylinder walls look good when the heads are pulled.

otherwise pull the block, plasti-gauge the bearing clearances, replace the bearings and put it back together.

#5 Subarian

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Posted 12 December 2005 - 09:22 AM

An engine is and engine is an engine.


Almost. People who aren't familiar with the subaru engine need to be aware that the block is aluminum with pressed-in liners. No overbore is possible. Piston selection is limited, as is cam selection. If you just want to get more miles out of it, I would tear it down, inspect the block, crank, and pistons, and if the block is good, I would put in new bearings, new rings, have the valves ground, and, of course, replace all gaskets. You can get undersize bearings for the crank, but I think .010 under is the limit. Check with your parts supplier before you begin.

Of course, before you begin tearing into the engine, you might want to make sure you're getting everything out of it you can. Check the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, O2 sensor, etc. and make sure you really need to tear the engine down.

#6 Steelhead

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Posted 12 December 2005 - 12:37 PM

I don't burn oil that is noticeable, although I do go through a couple quarts between oil changes, so is it safe to assume that the cylinder walls are OK?

If they aren't, can they be honed or over-bored?

At 215K miles do folks think new valve springs are needed?

#7 zyewdall

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Posted 12 December 2005 - 12:54 PM

I don't burn oil that is noticeable, although I do go through a couple quarts between oil changes, so is it safe to assume that the cylinder walls are OK?

If they aren't, can they be honed or over-bored?

At 215K miles do folks think new valve springs are needed?


I took my '85 EA82 apart with 212k miles on it, and could still see the original hatch marks on the bores. Subaru's just don't tend to wear their bores from what I've heard. New rings might be all you need. Subarian says you can't overbore them anyway, because it's a sleeve in a aluminum block.




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