Jump to content


Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, my lurker friend!

Welcome to Ultimate Subaru Message Board, an unparalleled Subaru community full of the greatest Subaru gurus and modders on the planet! We offer technical information and discussion about all things Subaru, the best and most popular all wheel drive vehicles ever created.

We offer all this information for free to everyone, even lurkers like you! All we ask in return is that you sign up and give back some of what you get out - without our awesome registered users none of this would be possible! Plus, you get way more great stuff as a member! Lurk to lose, participate to WIN*!
  • Say hello and join the conversation
  • Subscribe to topics and forums to get automatic updates
  • Get your own profile and make new friends
  • Classifieds with all sorts of Subaru goodies
  • Photo hosting in our gallery
  • Meet other cool people with cool cars
Seriously, what are you waiting for? Make your life more fulfilling and join today! You and your Subaru won't regret it, we guarantee** it.

* The joy of participation and being generally awesome constitutes winning
** Not an actual guarantee, but seriously, you probably won't regret it!

Serving the Subaru Community since May 18th, 1998!

Guest Message by DevFuse
 

Photo
- - - - -

Framing the Roo


  • Please log in to reply
17 replies to this topic

#1 Gravityman

Gravityman

    GO BIG OR GO HOME!!!

  • Members
  • 647 posts
  • Goldsboro

Posted 13 December 2005 - 12:15 PM

Whats up subaru freaks

I was wondering if anyone has ever thought about building a sub-frame for their roo? I was thinking about putting a small lift on my brat no more then 3". When I do this I was thinking about building a full sub frame under the brat and using this frame as the blocks for the lift. I know this would add a lot more weight but the rigidity would be awsome. So basicly instead of just blocks at the lift points, the frame would extend from one point to the next. This would also give you a perfect place to tie in a roll cage.

What do you think?

#2 Jerry DeMoss

Jerry DeMoss

    Pushrods 'O' Fury

  • Members
  • 2,408 posts
  • Colorado

Posted 13 December 2005 - 12:22 PM

Sounds like a pretty cool idea.Tie in a roll cage like that would be nice.I would say go for it if you have the time.

#3 Subarian

Subarian

    1000+ Super USER!

  • Members
  • 1,150 posts
  • Orem

Posted 13 December 2005 - 01:11 PM

Not a bad idea. It would probably extend the life of your Subaru, too. We used to do something like that with V8 Vegas back in the day, but that's another story...

#4 88HatchMonster

88HatchMonster

    Back in the Hatch

  • Members
  • 484 posts
  • Shelburne, VT

Posted 13 December 2005 - 02:51 PM

Here are some pics of the 4" lift/frame I made for my 88 hatchback. Many people have made similar frames, generally to allow for the mounting of a transfer case and/or solid axles, also generally with 6" or more of lift. Personally I just wanted the rigidity of a full frame and ultimate insurance against a rusty body ever compromising the suspension.

Note that in this style of lift the rectangular lift blocks are bolted first up into the body and then down into your subframe components with two bolts, rather than one long bolt like the BYB/PK, AA, Scorpion etc.

Posted Image

Posted Image

Posted Image

#5 Gravityman

Gravityman

    GO BIG OR GO HOME!!!

  • Members
  • 647 posts
  • Goldsboro

Posted 13 December 2005 - 02:56 PM

Well the thing is I am trying to figure out how I want to do it. This is my ordeal; I am droping the ER27 into where there was an EA81. I am going to be using the cross member from the XT6 as well as the entire drivetrain. The XT6's crossmember is 2 inches wider then the brats, as well the control arm adds another inch on both sides, 4 inches wider then the brat. What I was thinking about doing was either using a 3"X3" 3/16" square tubing and either bending it to fit (Which I think would be insane), instead I might just cut and weld the whole frame together. The reason I was thinking about using the 3x3 was so that I can still mount the bolts in the stock possition on the brat and the extra 2 inchs of offset will allow me to bolt into the XT6 suspension due to the wider mounting locations. This Idea would use 2 3X3s one for each side of the brat.

Another idea was to only use the 3X3 in the mounting areas and for all the other places in between the 3x3s use either a 2x3, 1x3 or 2x2. This would cut down on cost and weight. This is what I was thinking; the I's are bolts. I could taper the 3X3s out at about a 45deg angle to meet the 2x3 to increase strength and at the bends I would just cut and weld in the angles. Not a very pretty pic sorry. Dont pay attention to the grey it is only for filler, the Blue is the picture.
__________________
__________________\____________________________
________________\____________I___I______________<- 2x3
_________________________\___I___I___/<- 3x3


__________________
__________________\____________________________
_____________________________I___I
_______________\_____________I___I_____________ <- all 3x3

So is it better for less weight or strength? Will the smaller tubes still be sufficiant?

#6 Gravityman

Gravityman

    GO BIG OR GO HOME!!!

  • Members
  • 647 posts
  • Goldsboro

Posted 13 December 2005 - 03:00 PM

Awsome pics dude thanks

very similar to that but I will have to go wider to accomidate for the xt6 susp. How long did it take you to build? and how much $$?

#7 Scott in Bellingham

Scott in Bellingham

    Lets go wheelin!!

  • Members
  • 3,635 posts
  • Bellingham

Posted 13 December 2005 - 05:02 PM

I would run the 2 x 3 tubing alongside the drop down mounts as to keep the frame tubing one continuous peice, instead of multiple peices which joints have a acces hole in them, in that way the frame would be a stand alone structure and not count on the body for strength, show us Pics as you go along this is interesting Scott

#8 88HatchMonster

88HatchMonster

    Back in the Hatch

  • Members
  • 484 posts
  • Shelburne, VT

Posted 13 December 2005 - 09:40 PM

Awsome pics dude thanks

very similar to that but I will have to go wider to accomidate for the xt6 susp. How long did it take you to build? and how much $$?


Took me a couple of weekends and about $125 in steel. I had a couple of friends help me roll an old junk hatch on it's side and then I assembled it on that. Pretty easy build.

Now about your project, it's funny cause I've been cooking up practically the same exact idea for another hatchback I have. I have a subie motor which shall remain nameless (hint: it's a turbo and it's a 2.0). So I want to drop that in and upgrade the whole suspension and running gear to a 5 lug XT6 setup. My idea was to incorporate a 2" lift to bridge the gap between the hatch body and the new crossmembers, pretty much like you're doing.

I'm waiting till I get the hatch stripped and all of the parts laid out in front of me before I start on my design. The only advice I can give you is to remember "KISS" and don't underestimate the strength of 3/16" box section. For a Subie frame it is plently strong enough almost any way you put it together. My frame may look like it is structurally compromised at the open lift blocks, and well, to a certain extent it is. But in terms of the forces that will ever possibly be exerted on it, it is still total overkill in terms of strength.

#9 75subie

75subie

    I`m sold on Subaru

  • Members
  • 3,908 posts
  • Walden

Posted 13 December 2005 - 09:59 PM

hatchmonster, how many hatches do you have?nice frame work:brow:

#10 88HatchMonster

88HatchMonster

    Back in the Hatch

  • Members
  • 484 posts
  • Shelburne, VT

Posted 13 December 2005 - 11:11 PM

hatchmonster, how many hatches do you have?nice frame work:brow:


Just 2. My '88 is the 4" lifted offroader, and my '87 is bone stock (at least until said project plans commence. :brow: )

#11 subarubrat

subarubrat

    1000+ Super USER!

  • Members
  • 1,252 posts
  • Bealeton, VA

Posted 14 December 2005 - 12:47 AM

That is some TOP NOTCH subie fabbing there! Way to go! I would suggest doing it justice and taking it to the power coat shop or at least hitting it with POR15 and chassis black. But again, NICE WORK!

#12 88HatchMonster

88HatchMonster

    Back in the Hatch

  • Members
  • 484 posts
  • Shelburne, VT

Posted 14 December 2005 - 01:38 AM

That is some TOP NOTCH subie fabbing there! Way to go! I would suggest doing it justice and taking it to the power coat shop or at least hitting it with POR15 and chassis black. But again, NICE WORK!

Thanks a lot. Means a lot coming from the man with THE brat!
Actually, I did do the frame up with POR15 and chassicoat. Gonna stay nice and purdy even up here in rusty NY! :lol:

#13 operose

operose

    1000+ Super USER!

  • Members
  • 1,264 posts
  • Potsdam

Posted 14 December 2005 - 11:14 AM

88HatchMonster:

maybe this spring/summer you could help me build up a frame for one of my spare xt6's and we can lift that up a bit... might be able to trade you xt6 running gear parts :brow:

#14 88HatchMonster

88HatchMonster

    Back in the Hatch

  • Members
  • 484 posts
  • Shelburne, VT

Posted 14 December 2005 - 11:24 AM

88HatchMonster:

maybe this spring/summer you could help me build up a frame for one of my spare xt6's and we can lift that up a bit... might be able to trade you xt6 running gear parts :brow:


Sounds like a plan. Get ahold of me when it's about 45 degrees warmer out :lol:

#15 operose

operose

    1000+ Super USER!

  • Members
  • 1,264 posts
  • Potsdam

Posted 14 December 2005 - 12:06 PM

Sounds like a plan. Get ahold of me when it's about 45 degrees warmer out :lol:


yeah this cold is really killing me and my legacy... doors freeze shut all the time, windshield frosts up on the inside, doesn't start all the time.. blahblahblah I hate upstate NY winters it's colder than 99% of norway

#16 ShawnW

ShawnW

    Subaru Master Technician

  • Administrator
  • 12,941 posts
  • Denver, Colorado

Posted 17 December 2005 - 01:17 AM

Ive got that style lift on my 83 Wagon and the guy that welded it is going to have them available shortly for around $450 plus shipping. All of them will be a 4" kit all around, the only part not being 4" is the strut extension which will be a 3" to extend the life of the front axles. They are only offered for an 80-84 (plus 80-89/87 Hatch/Brat). The unit will ship in 3 major sections, REAR, FRONT, and two long bars to connect front to rear that run below the existing Unibody frame rails. Unfortunately action shots arent available yet as my car doesnt have a running engine in it yet but that should be remedied in roughly 30 days. (2.2 conversion in progress)

#17 88HatchMonster

88HatchMonster

    Back in the Hatch

  • Members
  • 484 posts
  • Shelburne, VT

Posted 17 December 2005 - 11:30 AM

Ive got that style lift on my 83 Wagon and the guy that welded it is going to have them available shortly for around $450 plus shipping.


Sounds neat, that's a good price, too. Shipping must be kind of pricey, though?

I'm not sure I agree with the 3" strut extension... Seems like that's playing it a little overly cautious, and sacrificing ground clearance and travel in the process. With a 4" body lift, a 4" strut extension will give you stock axle angles...

In retrospect, the only thing I would have put shorter lift blocks under is the tranny crossmember, so as to avoid having to fab new shifter linkages. 4" is just a little too much, especially for the 4wd lever.

#18 offroadsubaruguy

offroadsubaruguy

    Subaru Nut

  • Members
  • 728 posts
  • arvada, colorado

Posted 17 December 2005 - 02:14 PM

if i could build a frame for the legacy i would be stuffing some jeep axles under it with a long arm set up.... about 8" of suspension lift would be good.... just think, 35's under the legacy with only suspension lift and solid axles..... mmmm tasty........:brow::brow::slobber::slobber:




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users